mjmarovi

Well, after I sold off all of my competition gear a few years ago I wanted to get loud again cheap. I modified a box I had 2 15" Fi Q's in and then 2 DC Lvl 4 XL's which netted me a 153 on the dash. Working at best buy at the time I was able to get a killer vendor deal on kicker product and went with 6 10" CVR's, changed the baffle on the box, and threw them on a ap3k. Damn was I impressed. Didn't have the authority in the lower range as the mechanical travel just wasn't there to move the air, but I really beat on'em with no issues and couldn't get over how close in volume they were to the 15's, never metered, but was pretty damn impressed. Now another story. I just purchased a 12" comp RT for my truck to use with a RFT500.1bdcp I found for a steal on ebay. Sub was bad out of the box....first time this ever happened to me. It barely vibrated enough just to feel it, I left it hooked up and went out that night, on the way home it burped real quick and then was done, even gave off a bit of a smell. I had a Treo 15" SSi sitting at home as well waiting to go in the car, so hooked it up just to be sure the amp I bought wasn't F'ed up. Sure enough it played great. I feel RF's power series amps are on another level than any amp kicker puts out, but on the woofer side kicker definitely wins the mainstream battle, just have to be aware quality control is not going to be the same as an SSA, Fi, AA, Sundown, etc. but design is good, and tough to beat per dollar when looking for entry level. Once you get to $300+/woofer I can't see spending the money just my .02 cents on that matter

Got another BMW guy car. What year is the car? Is it the M50 motor? No way you can own a BMW, especially an M3 and not do some peroformance mods! LOL Anyway, I've build and done some multi-driver door panels in my past, and listened to one in a certain F-250 from a Team Hybrid Audio member who won many a competition with his setup. First off, like //M5 said, you really need to make sure you deaden and strengthen those doors and panels. Honestly with any volume at all I don't see that panel working unless you reinforce it with fiberglass; what type of material is it made of? How strong are the baffles? For tuning, if in separate chambers, using the most forward driver for the mids and rest for mid-bass will work, but don't expect a spectacular stage. You can make a mid in the door work in a truck, in a car it's usually just to be loud. I highly recommend the kick-panel, which would be difficult in that car, or cutting into the footwell and using a metal grille. Doors will just be tough in any car, let alone a small car. With a ton of time tuning it though, you could probably get decent sound from at least the drivers seat. Time correction will just be crazy, and tweeter location will play a huge part as the mids in the doors will want to really lower the stage, especially if you are running more than one set at a time in the doors. It really just comes down to whats most important to you, to pull off a truly good SQ system in that car I'm afraid i would be recommending some not so cheap drivers, processing and amps are great though, not bad for "sitting around" lol.

Yeah, it was, was able to build it to JL specs exactly and honestly it got down pretty damn good for a couple 8's. I think you're right, that's the route I'm going to take. How come you recommend the Icon over say..the Fi Q or Fi BL? I do think the BL may not hit the lows in the same fashion as the Q, but not sure about the icon. Thanks for your input BTW! Also considering the DC Lvl4, any thoughts on that? I'll be able to net probably 2.0 cubic feet after port and displacement, trying to tune at 30-32 hz.

Hey guys, been a long time since I've been around on the forum here. I've mainly been doing performance stuff on my car, but am bored again with my system in the truck. I have an 08' crew cab silverado and already had a custom box with 2 JL8w7's. Rear seat has been lifted 2" to accommodate larger boxes. I just picked up a DD m1c as I think that's the most powerful amp i'll be able to use without further upgrading my electrical system. I can build a box up to a a total of about 2.7 cubic feet, maybe 3.0 total absolutely maxing out space. I can fit 8's front facing, or if I downfire them I can fix up to 15" with up to 7.5" mounting depth. I'm looking for as loud as possibly in that space, don't care if it's 6 8's sealed, 1 15 ported, and also being able to hit low 30hz tones, that way I can always de-tune sub volume to run a decent SQ setup since I do have a nice set of HAT pro components run actively for mids/highs. Thanks in advance!

I did great with Q's before, Frankie Rio was doing 160's with his back when he was running Fi...I know they are capable of some pretty impressive output, and especially on lower tones which is what I want. but I may actually be changing it up to go back to 2 15's as oppose to 6 10's, since down the road I would like to run much more and the new SP4's look so damn good!

Well that's good to know, I suppose one question that may arise soon as well that I just thought of.... Is it possible to run dual sensor from your android phone? This would honestly make my decision on going with the bluetooth or the USB. It would be cool if you could run...say a bass boxing or bassrace style competition with your phone, or tablet.

Not sure of budget, and does it have to be 600 specifically? there are a few options out there for amps rated down to 450 @4 ohms and are known to push 2krms at 1 ohm and even more below.. Treo Engineering comes to mind with a few different options in different price ranges for ya. Of course as said above sundown is always a great choice

Stefan's last post contained extremely useful information; especially the conclusion. for a thread asking about what amplifiers his amplifier compares to? absolutely not, food for thought for someone new in car audio sure, does it pertain to this thread? no...is it a pompous remark? LMAO no, it's some sad attempt to try and appear somewhat intelligent after making a fool of yourself. Amusing actually, and still not thought provoking at all, reading it was like listening to a 4th grader stumble though a book report intended for a middle school literature class that they could barely comprehend...oh BTW TO THE OP! do you find that a 3000 watt amp will not be much audible difference from 2500 useful to the question you asked? Feel free to answer honestly...LMAO Have a great night fellas!

I'm just going to ignore stefan from now on for your own sake, and If you'd like more help via PM feel free to message me, I apologize for all the crap that got on your thread. Trod, would you by chance be able to get the voltage and resistance that clamp was done at? Would be interesting to know... Glad I could help!

Just finished reading through all of the threads above, and sounds like a great product that I will be investing in for sure, but a couple questions or concerns that I'm sure I am not and won't be the only person to ask: 1) How do these meters compare to say a Termlab meter? Accuracy, durability, what modes does the software offer? 2) Is there any competition format currently using SPL-Lab meters or is there anyone that may be switching over to them? I personally would to like to know if you can use it to say practice bassrace, bass boxing, etc..maybe a video going through the software and everything it offers would eliminate some of the questions? Regardless I'm very excited just reading about the bluetooth sensor! That is badASS!

Either way, your still resorting to a rudimentary method for comparison. Pretty sure that's all he's asking for, is a basic comparison, like, what to expect? Is it worth doing? Why does it seem you are posting only to be negative and try to make yourself seem more intelligent, where you are actually doing just the opposite...still curious how you think comparing output of two amps on same load at assumingly same voltage is apples to oranges.... Bro he does it all the time, post bullshit at first then when you call him on it he is the expert. This could of been answered 8 post ago if you would actually try and help. First post was clear as day in what he needed to know. Mjmarovi to answer your question it would be in some one else's setup, every setup acts different. Just becuase someone has great success with a SAZ-3500d vs an IA40.1 doesnt mean you will and vice versa. I'm not asking anything? Thank's for pointing out about everyone's setup acts different though, as I failed to do so, but at least he's got some idea now LOL.

Either way, your still resorting to a rudimentary method for comparison. Pretty sure that's all he's asking for, is a basic comparison, like, what to expect? Is it worth doing? Why does it seem you are posting only to be negative and try to make yourself seem more intelligent, where you are actually doing just the opposite...still curious how you think comparing output of two amps on same load at assumingly same voltage is apples to oranges....

I take it as he heard his amp is capable of 5kw at .5 ohm, so assuming the .5 ohm output, at 1ohm would it push the same power as some of those amps he listed? Notice he didn't list 5kwrms amps, he listed 3k-3500 watt amps at 1ohm... He even stated in a later post that he heard the saz3500d pushed 4-5k at .5 ohm, which WOULD be a direct comparison to his original post stating the 5k he heard HIS amp put out at .5 ohm.... so I would say he is trying to figure out how much power his amp could put out at .5 ohm with proper electrical and what other amps would it compare to?

that really means nothing to me without knowing the voltage and impedance...

What makes you say that? Only asking for reasoning since I have had thoughts on picking up an M4a. I completely understand what you're asking, but unfortunately am not familiar enough with DD amps to give you an answer. I'm sure if you asked about Sundown or IA, or ZED, you would get more helpful posts... Not sure why ppl are saying apples and oranges and crap rather than actually posting something to help... Here's what I found on youtube, hope it helps!