battery in the trunk

[madscientist 0]

Just out of curiousity, for those that are running batteries in the trunk, how many are running them without some kind of isolator? Are you seeing any issues?

For those that are running an isolator, what are you running and where can you find them? What kind would you recommend, if any?

I am thinking of running a Yellow Top in the trunk, or possibly a Kinetik. If I went with Kinetik, which battery do you recommend (besides the 2400 which I think would be a little extreme for a daily driver, but maybe not)? Thanks in advance.

[theabunai 3]

No isolator

no problems

steady voltage at 13.4V

the batt would depend on the Alt size and the current draw of your system

[Big E 4]

I was kinda curious about this too...so no isolator is needed for a second battery in the trunk, even if they're completely different brands? I've read in quite a few places that you should add an isolator if they're not the same brand & model battery...

[theabunai 3]

I actually had the same questions you had a while back

I have a stock scion battery up front and a yellow top in the rear...

Not one issue...

system runs fine no more light diming...

If you plan on running the system A LONG time with the engine off then i would recommend an isolator... If you're only gonna really run it while driving then none needed...

I pound my stereo with the vehicle off for maybe at the longest 1/2 hour and no problems with the one up front

[djjdnap 78]

yea no isolator

no problem

[madscientist 0]

No isolator

no problems

steady voltage at 13.4V

the batt would depend on the Alt size and the current draw of your system

I will have a stock 130 amp alternator up front powering either a SAZ-1500D or two (2) SAE-1000Ds which will push what I think will be two (2) 12" SSDs. [until I change my mind,] My setup will be very similar to yours, theabunai. I think I might go with either a yellow top or the Kinetik equivalent, depending on the price I can get each for.

So it seems most people don't even use an isolator if the system wonn't be played with the car off. I rarely if ever do that so I think I'll be OK.

Now how exactly are you guys wiring these? Does it go

"starting battery"------fuse--------distro--------fuse-----"trunk battery"------fuse------sub amp(s)

Do I have too many fuses? Where should they be located?

Edited June 8, 2007 by madscientist

[dopey 0]

I'm not sure you NEED the fuse between the amp and the battery in back. But you can have those fuses, and it's probably a good thing.

[theabunai 3]

Well this is how i have mine all set up

Alternator ----- fuse box - starting battery

\

\---fuse----trunk battery------fuse----distro block------sub amp(s) and front stage amp...

So i got two wries coming off the alt... one to the fuse box of the car which then goes to the starting battery....... And another from the alternator to a 250AMp ANL inline fuse then to the trunk batt then to another 250amp ANL fuse then to a power distro block then to the amps....

[tejcurrent 13]

I had 1 starter and 2 yellows. No isolator. Worked fine.

1 starter and 2 yellows no isolator, again, no problem. I would only consider one if you are worried about driving home because you're going to drain your batteries that much- which I've never done after hours of play.

I've got alternator>starter batt>fuse>(fused each line to the back with 250a)>rear batts>250a fuses>amps.

I've yet to have a problem.

I'd save the $ for the isolator and buy some more wire or something

[madscientist 0]

Thanks for the help - looks like I will go with no isolator.