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bikerdude

Excited thats all

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I just ordered a 15" BL with cooling, flatwind, and unversal. Along with a recone kit for a 12" RE SX sub that I will sell after I recone it.

So that 15" BL will be powered by a RF T10001BD whenever I get the amp back from RF, warranty work...

That BL will go in my Scion tC, hopefully I will manage to build a 3.5cuft box and do an external tube port, and port that to 30hz. The reason why I want to do tube port is so that I can change it and tune it higher for competitions. I'm just hoping that that box can fit since the Scion tC trunks are kinda small. The box that I did have in there for the RE was 2.5cuft already. With the new box I will remove the spare tire and hopefully that will give me more room, it should.

Hopefully I can break into the 140s with this setup. When I had the 12" RE SX in that box which was tuned to 32Hz, I hit 139db@42Hz on a TL mic.

Only time will tell.

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Biker dude i have a scion TC and the biggest box you can do in it is just about 4.2 cft.....

i have two 12's in it a yellow top battery, two 20" Us Amps md.1d and a soundstream rub502 in the trunk and i still have room for groceries and my golf clubs or the kids sleeping bags and tent stuff....

though my box is only 2.1 cft

BTW tC utterly slam

just watch the panels on the columns running along the top pillar of the hatch...

With only 2K watts i managed to rattle a pullpin till it cracked....

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Biker dude i have a scion TC and the biggest box you can do in it is just about 4.2 cft.....

i have two 12's in it a yellow top battery, two 20" Us Amps md.1d and a soundstream rub502 in the trunk and i still have room for groceries and my golf clubs or the kids sleeping bags and tent stuff....

though my box is only 2.1 cft

BTW tC utterly slam

just watch the panels on the columns running along the top pillar of the hatch...

With only 2K watts i managed to rattle a pullpin till it cracked....

Do you have pictures of your trunk?

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I do once my stupid cousin comes back from Las Vegas (one month trip)

I can post my install and videos... He has my Digital camera and cam-corder

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IMO you've got a good shot, but it's going to come down to the install. If don't hit it w/ the 30hz tune try switching out to a higher tune.

*I just realized that the tc was a car, not the box-like one. With a trunk it's always harder, I'd make sure to put some sound deadener in there if you haven't. If you don't get it the first time just play w/ different box designs.

Edited by tejcurrent

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Tej it's actually a hatch....

It's much more egronic than an RSX and the rear window angles nicely to the front part of the cab...

I got better results facing the subs UP than back... Which is pretty rare LOL

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I'm doing 140@30hz from a trunk on a single 10" and pg 600... I'm sure your install will crack 140's... I'd like to see it closer to a 145 personally... but that's just me... external tube type port isn't needed if all you want is 140's lol... I use a slot port, double 3/4" mdf lol... so if I can do it, you have a hatch, I'd go for the 145 if I were you ;)

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Tej it's actually a hatch....

It's much more egronic than an RSX and the rear window angles nicely to the front part of the cab...

I got better results facing the subs UP than back... Which is pretty rare LOL

That shows how well versed I am in some of these newer cars :D

Could you tell me what this means (in bold)? I'm not familiar w/ the word. Thanks

If that's the case though I'd think it'd be pretty easy, especailly compared to a trunk. I was pulling low/mid 140s from a 15" L7 on 1300w in my yukon. With less cabin space and a better sub, I can't see why not. Again though, just a matter of getting the design right.

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I'm sure that will crack 140, I was doing 139 on music with a single Eclipse TI in a VERY sealed off trunk.

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Yeah the sub facing up is the only way to go with that 15"er, just because of space issues. Unless my calculations are off, but I have to really measure it when I take everything out of the trunk.

Reason for the external round port is because I can tune differently if needed, and it will be a less of a complicated box.

I'm just hoping RF will fix my amp though. I don't feel like spending $500 on an amp right now.

Can't wait to get the sub in so I can at least start the build for the box. Sub facing upwards and port facing the rear tail light.

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Yeah scott recommended sub up port back for the tC And i now scott knows what he is doing...

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Also make sure to do the big three to aid in voltage supply to help the amp run smoother. Of the box is done well, amp set up properly, and the back deck vented (ie remove back speakers or cut some holes in there) it should help increase your score. You may also wanna play with box tuning. Possibly find the resonant frequency of your car to start with then after sound deadoning (if you do any) and go from there.

J

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Also make sure to do the big three to aid in voltage supply to help the amp run smoother. Of the box is done well, amp set up properly, and the back deck vented (ie remove back speakers or cut some holes in there) it should help increase your score. You may also wanna play with box tuning. Possibly find the resonant frequency of your car to start with then after sound deadoning (if you do any) and go from there.

J

Its a hatchback!

My amp is repaired by RF, hopefully getting that back soon. Hopefully get the BL soon and start building that box. If not imma throw in my RE back in temporarily when I get that amp back.

I just got a new HU also the pioneer avic d3.

We'll see

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So does this sound right? For round port using this calculator http://www.carstereo.com/help2/Articles.cfm?id=31

For box that I will build at 3.5cuft tuned to 30hz it says to use a tube in with a length of 7.83" and a diameter of 4". Does that sound about right? Or not?

Or for a slotted port it calculated for a 3.5cuft tuned to 30hz, do a 6" high, 4" wide, and 14.49" long.

I'm confused.......... :ughdunno:

Edited by bikerdude

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