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By MJS_IraggiAlts
PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers....
This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part)
Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies
Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker
If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz
I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it
So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450.
This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange
MB=midbass
W=woofer
SW=subwoofer
This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play
There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...
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By Aaron Clinton
We are blowing out some remaining stock we had left over. Some killer deals, but most items are 2 or less units left.:
Check it out here: https://store.soundsolutionsaudio.com/ssayardsale/
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By Second Skin
The awesome guys at Colorado Car Audio just finished a sweet Dodge Ram 3500 Pro Master Van build with full sound and heat insulation along with a stereo upgrade and the work is very nice!!!
They applied Spectrum and Damplifier Pro CLD to all of the metal to kill vibration noise and help with heat transfer through the metal. They used Luxury Liner Pro MLV+CCF next to block out unwanted airborne noise and thermally insulate the walls. And they used Mega Zorbe Hydrophobic Melamine Foam to absorb sound and thermally insulate the roof of this huge van!!!
When the proper layers are applied to the correct locations, a huge difference in noise level reduction can be achieved. Setting the stage for a nice and clean platform for your stereo to perform in a much more enjoyable environment....especially with these tin can sprinter vans....treating them makes a HUGE difference in noise comfort levels.
Thank you guys for the awesome work and pictures. Thank you for insisting on high-quality Second Skin products for all of your builds. #TeamSecondSkin #SecondSkinUSA #SecondSkinAudio #SecondSkinForTheWin
Spectrum Liquid Sound Deadening
Luxury Liner Pro Mass Loaded Vinyl with Closed Cell Foam infused
Mega Zorbe Standard Hydrophbic Melamine Foam
Damplifier Pro
New Kenwood Touch Screen Head Unit
Upgraded Stereo System
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By DedicatedEnthusiast
Hello everyone, long time no see. I am selling a pair of Dual 2-ohm (technically D1.7) 12" Sundown X v.2's built by Dave Leib a.k.a "Strongman Designs."
Reason I am selling them is because I realized upon testing to see if my digital multi-meter was working correctly that one of the coils is reading higher on the one sub indicating that too much heat had been applied to it recently so rather than risking any further damage to it I am going to assume that I have too much power for these.
Having said this in all honesty, let me make it perfectly clear here that both subs are still in perfect working order as we speak, even the one that is reading differently. Had I not thrown my multi-meter on it to test it in order to see if it was working properly (the multi-meter itself) I would have never known there was any difference or discrepancy between the two.
However, because one of them is reading off now and I do not know what is to be expected out of it's performance long-term I will be letting these go for $500+ shipping (that includes both).
Any further questions or concerns please feel free to text me at 440-915-2309
Phil
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