Need help with box/sub/port orientation in trunk build

[Gunk 0]

Doge Neon

HU - Alpine CDE-172BT

Front Stage :

8" Beyma 8G40-4 in doors

Midrange and tweeters still to be decided. 3.5" Pioneer bullet tweeters in dash atm.

 

Sound Treatment:

Spectrum Sound Deadner sprayed on undercarriage

Front Doors treated thoroughly. Sealed and deadened as good as possible.

Car floor and trunk will be deadened and get CCF/MLV treatment.

 

Electrical:

Aftermarket 200 amp alternator

2 runs of 2/0 Royal Excelene welding wire run from hood to trunk

Big 3 with 2/0 Royal Excelene welding wire

At least 1 more battery will be mounted in the trunk area.

 

Amplifiers:

(2) PPI 140x4.  The Beyma 8's will be running bridged off one and the midrange and tweeters off the other one.

Sundown SFB-3000D for the sub.

 

Goals:

Its a daily driver. Sound Quality Loud is the general goal.

Secondary goal would be for the sub to hit lows with authority. 

Ideal situation for me would be if I can leave a 6" section on side of trunk open that I can still push long things through the pass through (corner bead, 2x4's, paint pole, etc.)

Questions:

Need help with choosing the right orientation for sub and port in a standard ported enclosure... position of box in trunk as well.

***If both firing to the rear, how much space do I really need between sub/port and rear of trunk?

***Is there a situation that could work where I build all the way to rear of trunk and have sub firing sideways into corner of trunk where there is a cutout with some space there? Maybe the port would fire up into the lid in this situation?

The pic below shows dimensions that I could work with and totals close to 7 cubes gross. My problem is if my box and port is firing to the rear, I think the box should be pulled 6"-12" off the rear wall to give some space for it to fire into.

If I subtract 12" from this depth, I only have a box that's 12" deep about 3.4 cubes gross... (gross). I'd really like to hit close to 4 cubes net on this build so I could get a 15" ZCON in there. I'm fine with building in the trunk.

 

 

 

Edited November 27, 2019 by Gunk

[Gunk 0]

Maybe even a downfiring sub into empty spare tire well could be option. The tire well is 24" x 24" x 6".

[jcarter1885 995]

Just a heads up. Usually in a car, subs facing towards the cabin with the trunk sealed off gives the best results and also reducing rattles. You can also do subs facing towards the cabin with trunk sealed off and port through rear deck. I think the second option will be my next build when I go back to dual 12"s. 

 

With this orientation you will still have room in the back of the trunk as well.

Edited November 27, 2019 by jcarter1885

[Gunk 0]

3 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

Just a heads up. Usually in a car, subs facing towards the cabin with the trunk sealed off gives the best results and also reducing rattles. You can also do subs facing towards the cabin with trunk sealed off and port through rear deck. I think the second option will be my next build when I go back to dual 12"s. 

 

With this orientation you will still have room in the back of the trunk as well.

You're referring to a build something like this?

Edited November 28, 2019 by Gunk

[jcarter1885 995]

Correct

[Gunk 0]

Been playing with box calculators and I'm getting recommendations for a 12" diameter aero port thats 37" long in a 6.5 cubed net enclosure. That's like 2.5 cubes of port! 

Do people actually use 12" diameter aero ports?

[THATpurpleKUSH 0]

12 inch aero is huge, people use them but not for a single 15. An 8 inch aeroport is all you need.  You want about 8-12sq of port area per cubic foot of box volume when using an aeroport. 

[Gunk 0]

Thanks bro. Appreciate the input.