Need advice on new install.

[Inzlow 0]

Hello everyone. After reading through new member rules and regulations, I can see this is a no-nonsense group. Good, I'll get right to it.

This install started as I have aquired (3) 4' x 8' sheets of 1" MDF and like my music louder than necessary and typically in the rock/rap genres. On top of the material and shop to work in, I have all the tools required for making a good system (table saw, trim gun, router, electrical meters,  function generator, D/C power supply, oscilloscope, etc.) And the know-how to use these tools correctly. Here's my parameters for the project. 

2004 Nissan Armada with 44"W x 24"H x 26"D to work with.

$1000 to spend on this, I know whoever reads this is scoffing or smiling now, and I know why. So past the fact that I'm just a weekender, I need advice on Sub size 12, 15, 2x 12's, 2 15's etc. Sub Brand, Mono class D amp, Enclosure type and size, relax I don't need you to build it for me. I have downloaded, read, and practiced manipulating these audio design calculators; WinISD, BoxNotes, SubBox Pro, AJDesigner, DB Dynamix Audio Calculator(All the free ones). After plugging in my user parameters to each of these calculators and taking note of what changes with one factor, when I make a change to another. I have a pretty good understanding, mechanically of whats taking place. And I understand the plans that it gives me; how to cut a straight line to the right length, bracing, calculating area, but I don't know if  the plans it gives me will produce the sound I'm looking for, because I don't know what the data is supposed to look like if that makes sense. That's where you guys come in. Also, I have not forgotten that at some point, probably first, I will have to get the vehicle's electrical upgraded. alternator, battery power and ground. I'm not wanting to have to run another battery and supply back there for this project as the factory Bose head unit, mid's, and high's will not be replaced. So before I go any further I will let you guys fire away at the noob. Thank you in advance for any time and input to my project. Have a nice day!

[Tirefryr 1,742]

We need a goal here.    Why are you only concerned about the sub bass?  I would tackle that last.

[Randal Johnson 544]

Welcome to SSA

1” mdf is very difficult to work with, which is why I use 3/4 mdf or birtch. Just make sure to double baffle and brace. Works great !!!

[rich00 4]

Ok now this is strictly my opinion.  I'm no expert although I have been in car audio since 1996.

 

I would go with 2 12" subs.  In that size you want a ported enclosure tuned pretty low.  Now for $1000 I can't give specific sub recommendations.  I just don't know.  I see lots of sundown subs and amps.  I would go with a class D amp.  Figure out what subs you want then match the amp to them.  It looks like you have roughly 13.5ft^3 that before bracing and port displacement and sub displacement. 2 12" would kill with 2k+ watts.  I'm not sure if you can buy 2 12" and a 2k watt amp and everything else for $1000.  So go look at pricing on reputable subs and amps.  

 

Go to the SSA store first and look at pricing.  That way you get an idea.  

Again this is strictly my opinion. 

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Welcome to SSA.

[nigel 148]

If you were to go with rich00's recommendation of 2 12's on 2k here's just a quick search on ssa's store of budget friendly (using the $1000 you listed) and is good quality.

 

2 american bass xfl 12's (177 ea) $354

American bass ph4000 amp $260

Sky high ofc 0ga amp kit $115

Total: $729

 

And this set up should be able to slam.

 

Just to show your $1000 budget is very doable.

Edited February 19, 2019 by nigel

[///M5 2,833]

I'm with Tirefryr.  Need goals and wondering about the rest of the "system".

[rich00 4]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

I'm with Tirefryr.  Need goals and wondering about the rest of the "system".

He said the factory Bose head and speaker won’t be replaced.

[jcarter1885 995]

[Inzlow 0]

19 hours ago, rich00 said:

He said the factory Bose head and speaker won’t be replaced.

Thank you rich00

[Inzlow 0]

19 hours ago, jcarter1885 said:

Thank you

[Inzlow 0]

On 2/19/2019 at 1:10 PM, nigel said:

If you were to go with rich00's recommendation of 2 12's on 2k here's just a quick search on ssa's store of budget friendly (using the $1000 you listed) and is good quality.

 

2 american bass xfl 12's (177 ea) $354

American bass ph4000 amp $260

Sky high ofc 0ga amp kit $115

Total: $729

 

And this set up should be able to slam.

 

Just to show your $1000 budget is very doable.

Thank you for the direction

[Inzlow 0]

On 2/19/2019 at 9:36 AM, Aaron Clinton said:

Welcome to SSA.

Thank you

[Second Skin 120]

Welcome to SSA

 

[Randal Johnson 544]

I’m more of a single 15” driver on a 2K guy myself. Sub back, port back with a nice moderate 36 htz tune. Good luck, I’m tuned in !!!

[Inzlow 0]

Randal Johnson which manufacture for sub and amp would you use? Tuned to 36 htz? Forgive me I'm just learning the sound dynamic variables, but isn't 36 Htz a little high for a 15" sub? Am I correct on this: Tuning the box and port too low or too high for a particular driver will not allow that driver to capture certain frequencies because the box and port have been tuned higher or lower than that setup will allow? Could you show me what a good signal data set should look like for frequency response generally speaking for this project? And which way is better and worse on the scale? Ideally the signal should look like a rolling soft angled uppercase "M" with the left peak rolling off in the low 20's Htz, and the right peak starting around 45-50 htz with minimal loss in between? The dB should be just lower than sub's manufacturers spec? I just purchased Subwoofer Design Toolbox and this software seems a little more user friendly for me. I'm trying to avoid making the NOOB mistakes, but its hard to translate youtube descriptions and such to software interface and know what happened...I appreciate the help.

[rich00 4]

So my thinking which could be wrong.  Is that 36hz will will get louder than a box tuned to around say 28hz.  The fifteen will play lower in most cases is probably why he says 36hz.  I love my tens tuned around 36-38hz.  Ive never been a large subwoofer guy 15" or 18".  10" are my favorite.

[Randal Johnson 544]

I’m no enclosure designer. This is what was installed in my Avalanche. Also, this is what was designed for many of my SUV friends. 

I’m sure the SSA store has what you need whatever you choose.

[rich00 4]

How about a brahma 15" with the DC 1200 watt amp?  Gets just under your $1000 budget.  I'm just spitballing.  That should get loud with correct enclosure.  

[nigel 148]

On 2/20/2019 at 5:14 PM, Inzlow said:

Thank you for the direction

My direction was more to show a possibility. Just demonstrating that $1000 can get you quite far for just sub(s) and an amp, not so much as a recommendation of a specific set up.

 

That being said, it is more up to you what you decide works best with your desires, space, and budget.  Be it a single 12, dual 12's, single 15 etc.  Whether to go ported or sealed enclosure etc.  These are all personal preference.

 

I have run lots of different set ups over the years, and had many things I've enjoyed with each.  Tuning in the 32 - 36 hz range should do quite well in a proper sized enclosure.

 

At the end of the day it's up to you.

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

On 2/23/2019 at 2:30 PM, rich00 said:

How about a brahma 15" with the DC 1200 watt amp?  Gets just under your $1000 budget.  I'm just spitballing.  That should get loud with correct enclosure.  

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

I would suggest a single 15" in a ported box thats as big as you can get away with. same for the port, as much port area as possible. I personally would tune between 32-35hz. If you like loud, I would do the 35hz.

The reasoning being, this setup will be most efficient... get you the most from the least money spend. airspace is free, a second sub and bigger amp is not.

As far as keeping the factory mids/highs I think your on point. If its not an all out sq car and you are already happy with them. why not. My daughters ride is still sporting the factory paper speakers and tweets with a ported 15". I'm amazed everytime I jam out in it. Granted it has an Alpine headunit that allows quite a bit of tuning.

Lastly SSA sub's are F'ing badass!!! 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[SS Teacher 177]

Since you asked for opinions... I'd stick to a 1000 to 1500 watt amp so you don't have to do too much to the electrical and get a 15" in a ported box.  Since the box is super important I'd pay for a box design and buy one of SSA's subs (I LOVE my XCON, but they don't make them anymore).  Also, you might be able to save some money and pick up a used amp on Craigslist or OfferUp.  Good luck on your bass quest.

 

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

The Gcon and Icon will work on that power.

[Inzlow 0]

Update- OK after much review and contemplation, I have started the gears to move forward, well at least the ones that open my wallet...So, hopefully I have used this forum, and the information provided,( thank you everybody) to upgrade the audio system in my vehicle. I'll start with the first suggestions first. I am/was happy with the  factory Bose for my upper mids and highs, but for the price I figured it would be worth it (4)Rockford Fosgate 6.5" 3-ways to replace the 4 factory 6.5's -$50. There's a factory tweeter on the dash I will omit or find a replacement. The instrument cluster cover was cracked a while back so I ordered a new cover (goes behind bezel for head unit) -$200/not part of the project funds. Since I'm taking that out I thought about new head unit and found a Sony non-touch screen DD w/harness, wiring kit, and bezel to fit -$130. The SSA GCON 15" -$260. The Big 3 upgrade Alt/Ground/Batt wiring -$70. Now on to the amp and 3-D plans for the enclosure -$50 to $100 , although I have been fine tuning my skills with WinISD, Port-Box Design, Subwoofer Design Software but I'd hate to waste 2-3 sheets of MFD. That leaves around $500 for the 1 ohm class D amp, dampening material, speaker wire, misc fasteners and hardware etc. Its coming together! Updates to follow, again thanks everyone!