Left tweeter seems to be dying, sounds weak

[Florida_Audio 55]

21 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

 You should be fine playing the other side, just tape the wires off.  Probably would not hurt if you take a picture or labeled the wires,  for reinstallation.

ok about to disconnect the crossover and the tweeter to remove them.

but for the tape, any special tape? or any tape should do. i think i only have the clear tape on hand.

and any special way to tape it up? or just put a small piece of tape over the end of the wire? but if i do this, wont i have to cut the wire to get the tape off? because the tape will stick to that end?

also i assume the safest thing to do is tape off the end. because if i leave that end exposed, it could cause an electrical issue?

Edited July 24, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[jcarter1885 995]

Eltectrical tape the ends so the bare copper wire is not exposed.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, jcarter1885 said:

Eltectrical tape the ends so the bare copper wire is not exposed.

ok thanks. should it be placed on in a way that the tape can be removed easily, so i dont have to cut the end of the wire where the tape was placed?

it looks like a local home depot has electrical cape for around 2 bucks. should be worth it to prevent any issues

Edited July 24, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 No special method of taping needed,  just enough to keep the bare ends from touching anything.  Electrical tape is easy to remove,  so no worries there  either.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

 No special method of taping needed,  just enough to keep the bare ends from touching anything.  Electrical tape is easy to remove,  so no worries there  either.

ok thanks. ill pick some up at home depot tomorrow. should be around 2 bucks and cheap enough.

ill hold onto the extra, but sadly i think ill only ever need a small amount for now haha

[frogcase2002 393]

Always good to have some extra electrical tape around. And its cheap

[Billy Jack 145]

Just cut the end of the wire off so there is no metal sticking out of the coating and you want even have to tape it. You can always take off some coating when you go to wire it back up.

[frogcase2002 393]

It still could make contact with each other and or metal somewhere if you just cut it. Make sure you tape any wires that are not connected to anything on one end

[///M5 2,833]

ANY exposed metal MUST be covered.

I have used at least 00 rolls of electrical tape in my life.  It has uses way beyond its namesake.  Superb for that though.

[Florida_Audio 55]

ummmm i just realized something...

so i think disconnecting the tweeter should be easy enough.

but.... when i disconnect the crossover i need to disconnect one wire from the tweeter and another from the mid bass speaker right?

im not sure how the midbass speaker wire is connected? does this mean i need to take the midbass speaker out of the door panel to be able to disconnect it.... ?

i didnt do the install and im trying to learn now. but the install looks like it will be extremely difficult for me to remove the mid bass door speaker and put it back properly.... i dont have any electrical screwdrivers. just a basic screwdriver.

im afraid to take the midbass speaker out of the door panel because i may mess something up. such as the bracket or whatever else is there?

any way to disconnect the crossover without removing the midbass speaker?

i may chance it and just send in the tweeter and not the crossover for replacement?

or it may be worth the effort to take both door panels off and swap the tweeters. to diagnose if its the tweeter or the crossover causing the issue...

heres a photo, not sure if it would help you guys. but it seems as though i will have to remove the midbass speaker to be able to disconnect it from the crossover. so i can return the crossover?

this is becoming a bigger project than i had originally thought

Edited July 25, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Any screwdriver will work. Just be careful not to poke a hole in the speaker. Easy to slip, if your not on your game. Are the tweeters mounted in the door? Do you know how to remove the door panel? 

 

nothing to it but to do it! Or attempt anyways. When you hit a road block, come back and ask. At this point you need to go for it.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

Any screwdriver will work. Just be careful not to poke a hole in the speaker. Easy to slip, if your not on your game. Are the tweeters mounted in the door? Do you know how to remove the door panel? 

 

nothing to it but to do it! Or attempt anyways. When you hit a road block, come back and ask. At this point you need to go for it.

ok thanks yea. im so scared. and hesitant. want to make sure im as prepared as i can be before going in. like knowing about needing to use electrical tape for the ends of wires. or knowing to tape photos before i do anything.

yes ive taken the door panels off before, they are pretty easy. and then the tweeter is above the door panel in the A pillar i believe its called. theres a little plastic cover that pops off and is directly above the door panel, this holds the tweeter.

this photo is for a kia i think, but it looks similar to how the tweeter holder looks on my 2013 hyunda elantra coupe

Edited July 25, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Dude, you are set. Take your time, especially with the screwdriver near the speaker. Mucho important.

If it where me, I would start by removing what you need to gain access. Then inspect the wiring. It is possible you will find a pinched or partially sliced wire. If not that, then I would plan on swapping and testing the tweeter and crossovers next. Would suck to get the new one and have the same problem. Testing will set your mind at ease, one way or the other. You will be confident in knowing what to do next.

The pic suggestion would be to reference how the wires are hooked up. If there are connectors like the ones in the pic, then taking a pic might not help much. But there may be a white line on one wire, in each set. In which case reference from that. One way or the other, just make sure you are comfortable knowing where the wires hook back up, BEFORE disconnecting. Label them, etc.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

Dude, you are set. Take your time, especially with the screwdriver near the speaker. Mucho important.

If it where me, I would start by removing what you need to gain access. Then inspect the wiring. It is possible you will find a pinched or partially sliced wire. If not that, then I would plan on swapping and testing the tweeter and crossovers next. Would suck to get the new one and have the same problem. Testing will set your mind at ease, one way or the other. You will be confident in knowing what to do next.

The pic suggestion would be to reference how the wires are hooked up. If there are connectors like the ones in the pic, then taking a pic might not help much. But there may be a white line on one wire, in each set. In which case reference from that. One way or the other, just make sure you are comfortable knowing where the wires hook back up, BEFORE disconnecting. Label them, etc.

ok thanks alot!

appreciate the info.

you said to label the wires. how so? like a tiny piece of tape and write a letter on the tape?

[Florida_Audio 55]

ok sorry for all these questions but.... just wondering about a multimeter?

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Powerbuilt-Digital-Multi-Meter-648349/204505225?cm_mmc=Shopping|THD|G|0|G-BASE-PLA-D25T-HandTools|&gclid=CjwKEAjw8da8BRDssvyH8uPEgnoSJABJmwYoMYU5xJc_UuEcSG3sd705RXFfOeBScU_L-2Vvr6CIaBoCU8rw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds

this cost around 8 bucks. would this work well for what i want?

is it possible to use this to test the tweeter to see if its working properly? not sure how to even use it or what to do with it? i heard something about testing to see if the tweeter is 1 ohm stable with this?

just trying to learn about my options

[Florida_Audio 55]

ok... so i just picked up electrical tape

i opened the door panel and seem how the shop that installed my audio stuff did it

from what i can tell, the tweeter should be easy to disconnect.

but the crossover seems to be tied up with plastic ties in SEVERAL places. and its like jammed behind the mid bass speaker. so it looks like the crossover is also fed behind the panel that the door speaker is installed into. i dont have the tools to disconnect the panel that the speaker is installed into... so i cant do that. and it looks like an extreme amount of tedious work just to take off the crossover.

ill post some pictures soon and please let me know what you guys think about how to disconnect the crossover... i dont think i can do it. not sure exactly what tool ill need also.

but im right now about to try and swap the tweeters from left to right and right to left. to see if the tweeter is the issue or not. i hope its just the tweeter. otherwise im in for a big job....

[///M5 2,833]

I think the shop sucks.  Mounting a crossover in the door is something I'd never do.

[Florida_Audio 55]

ok.... so i opened up the door panels.

i swapped the left tweeter with the right tweeter. and now the right side definitely sounds much lower volume than the left side. before it was the opposite.

but..... the left side now sounds a bit harsh? i honestly dont know what to do now.... its hard to tell if the tweeter that used to be on the left side is now causing the low volume on the right side. i think it is. but.... the difference in volume is quite significant. but when i balance the speakers to the right side to help balance the volume, then the right side is a bit too loud....

i also have always had a weird like buzzing sound of faint static when i raise the volume from the speakers. its easier to hear when nothing is  being played, but i just raise the volume and the static hum gets louder. so i tried to raise the volume up to around 16 and balance left or right. and theres a difference in volume of the hum on each side for sure.

could this difference in volume from the music and the static hum be caused by the tweeter? or what else?

but like i said, it sort of seems as though the issue with the tweeter did follow it when i swapped them.

 

i briefly listened to music when swapping the RCA cables on amp. but it got dark out and i spent several hours doing the tweeter swap already so ill try and continue listening and swapping RCA cables and speaker cables on the amp again soon. not sure what else to do?

could a bad ground be causing the difference in volume in each side? im almost positive that the installation guy did a shitty job with grounding the amplifier. thats what i think the hum is from. and maybe its affecting one side more than the other? i dont know...

im so lost and frustrated. but im happy that i was able to swap the tweeters and do it okay. i was afraid to do it myself. one thing i noticed is that the tweeters are magnetic on the bracket that holds them in. is this normal?

Edited July 28, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[Florida_Audio 55]

also can someone please tell me how to use a multimeter to check the tweeter? and is would any multimeter work? such as the $8 one i listed before? thanks.

 

just read this:

i may check to see under the carpet or sides of car for two separate sides of cables? maybe this is somewhat causing the issue with the high pitched noise when raising the volume.

"You do not want to run power wires and signal cables on the same side of the vehicle because it could induce noise into your system from electromagnetic interference (EMI)."

http://knowledge.sonicelectronix.com/car-audio-and-video/accessories-and-installation/wiring-rcas-opposite-side-of-power-ground/

Edited July 28, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[///M5 2,833]

Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance.  It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear.  Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other wave generators work).  See how that sounds between the two tweeters.

When something follows the driver, I'd expect it but your description of what has happened is a bit hard to follow.  Using tones will help highlight the differences.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance.  It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear.  Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other wave generators work).  See how that sounds between the two tweeters.

When something follows the driver, I'd expect it but your description of what has happened is a bit hard to follow.  Using tones will help highlight the differences.

thank you!

ill check this out tomorrow. and yea i know its very hard for me to explain, im sorry. im trying to figure it out myself, but am a bit lost. i will for sure try that test tone.

i think that why i feel the left speaker is now harsher is because its louder and playing properly? and the right side while i didnt notice the crackling noise since i swapped it, it without a doubt sounds MUCH lower in volume than the left side now. so the volume loudness swapped sides when i swapped the tweeters.

i took several pictures of inside the door and let me know if you think i should post them? not sure if they would be helpful. but i dont think the install pictures would help much for this.

Oh yea, almost forgot! the crossover is installed into the door panel... but i cannot tell how? i think its glued into the panel? i cannot see any connections or velcro or anything and its attached pretty firmly. i dont think its possible to screw it into the door because the screw would break the crossover itself lol.

[Florida_Audio 55]

20 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Multimeter checks resistance and voltage, not impedance.  It can be helpful in trouble shooting but let's start with your ear.  Play a 2500Hz sine wave on your stereo (Funcgen on your phone or other wave generators work).  See how that sounds between the two tweeters.

When something follows the driver, I'd expect it but your description of what has happened is a bit hard to follow.  Using tones will help highlight the differences.

why did someone give u a red heart for that?

thanks for suggesting it. i tried it and the 2500hz sine wave sounds very similar on both sides. but the right side does sound a slight bit lower with that 2500hz

so i then played a 1000hz sine wave and listened to both sides together, and then balanced left and then right.

so the tweeter on that used to be on the left side was the one having issues. but yesterday i swapped it to the right side. and when playing the 1000 hz sine wave, there is a slight distortion along with the 1000hz sine wave sound. its clearly different from the opposite side. and it sounds like its all coming from that tweeter. i think its safe to say the tweeter is the issue? and i think ive found the frequency that causes the distortion. but.... in all frequencies played through the tweeter, the volume is lower. its just at that specific frequency i can hear the distortion as well.

does that sound about right? anything else to check? ill try and play all the other frequencies to check for anything else.

[///M5 2,833]

Does the behavior completely follow the tweeter?  It sounds likely but tones are better for comparing as your ear can co fuse you on music

[///M5 2,833]

1 hour ago, Florida_Audio said:

why did someone give u a red heart for that?

Billy Jack acts like a pre-pubescent teen and is butt hurt because when he says ridiculous garbage i correct him.  Particularly hard on him since in general he is one of the most confused and misled posters i have seen on an audio site.  Therefore to further show his maturity he marks my posts.  

I don't care however as rating or not it doesn't change the content of my posts.  I am not in junior high...

[Billy Jack 145]

You say I act like a teen but you where the one who got bent out of shape because I didn't take your opinion as fact. And it isn't just me you are a pucking smartass to almost anyone who comes on here. Hell I was reading a old post where you mouthed off to tony D'Amore and that guy is a engineer so that says a lot about you. And as far as disliking post you where giving me bad rep for liking a ssa product so it's only fair I give it right back. I think the problem is your German you guys think yourself better then everyone but we all know what nazi's really are. 

Edited July 29, 2016 by Billy Jack