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So , I just noticed that my power cap volt meter is droping to around 11.04 volts when I have my system pounding to its potential - can anyone tell me what to look for as the problem with this - 11.04 cant be right , its usually around 12.5-13.4 , and it drops that low for only a second .

My setup is this : Red top under my hood -> isolator -> yellow top in the trunk -> 1.2 farad cap -> amps " Kicker 4ch 70x4rms " , and " Orion 2400D 1200x1@1ohm " . The cap has been grounded seperately from the yellow top - they each have there own , my system is running 4 ga. wire , power and ground .

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Get a better alternator if you havent.

If its stock thats quite a bit of extra amperage the alternator has to put out to charge everything

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also remember that unless it has its own powersupply the reading will be lower than what voltage acutally is beause it will cause its own voltage drop. You are probably dropping to around 11.5 which is a quickly draining battery. Do as above, Alternator.

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big 3?

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The alternator will affect my caps votage ? i thought it just supplied the batteries with more power - so , hmmmm - well - the only alternator I can find for my car is a 150amp for 389$ , but my stock one is 110amp , will the 150 make that much difference " 2001 Pontiac GTP "

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Thats not a good deal at all.

A H.O alt with more amperage should be cheaper than that

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HO alts wants to charge me $600 for 220a alt... Mean Green was the same amperage for $300. Mean Green FTW

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tirefryr talked about this, that some aftermarket alternators are different from others,

I have used iraggi in the past, good alt

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The first thing I would do would be to GET SOME LARGER CABLE!!! That 4 guages is barely adequate for the Orion, let alone anything else.

Next, ditch the cap. Until you get your electrical system up to par, the cap is a hinderance. In this case, it's nothing more than another load.

If that has gotten you nowhere,time to upgrade the electrical.

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i just found out i have a 95amp alt instead of the 130a..

:ughdunno:

lol, man excessive prices are a bit high to me..

it's like 369$ for a 200a

this place today told me i can get it rebuilt to 200a for 179$ :fing34:

but i'm gettin a newer car so it would be a waist :wacko:

But the orion only takes 4 guage wire.

--------------------------------To get on topic

I know mines has 2 4 guage power and 2 4 guage grounds.

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x2 to everything Tire said.

You need as close to 90a more as you can get.

Any amp will take 1/0, just use 1/0 to 4g adapters, the there is nothing wrong with using the size wire that is suggested by the maker. My Tru, for example, is 4g per board, and makes a good deal more power than most amps that accept 1/0.

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If big 3 isnt a type of HO alternator.

No.

Why would making the flow easier, of voltage he doesnt have, help?

In addition too, yes, alone, no.

ummm...laws of physcs?

the wire is a resistor...its dropping voltage.

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i'm sure a 1200 watt amp can be ran on a stock ssytem depending on the alt, i know my 95a alt can. But yea i've done the big 3 as well.

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If big 3 isnt a type of HO alternator.

No.

Why would making the flow easier, of voltage he doesnt have, help?

In addition too, yes, alone, no.

ummm...laws of physcs?

the wire is a resistor...its dropping voltage.

And the drop is so much that the "Big 3" cures the need for 70a+?

BS.

Big 3 is the new "cap". Bunch of ppl talk smack about it like it solves the problem that only a HO alt can do.

Recommending a cheaper alternative that appears to work on the surface, much like a cap, but doesnt, doesnt make anyone the hero of the day for finding a cheap alternative to a relatively expensive problem. It just makes yoyu another idiot perpetuating what amounts to a bald face lie.

Edited by Renegadesrun

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i'm sure a 1200 watt amp can be ran on a stock ssytem depending on the alt, i know my 95a alt can. But yea i've done the big 3 as well.

Depends. Some alts are more capable because of the diodes used, but just because they "appear" to work, doesnt mean they arent getting their ass handed to them.

My 175a, with 4 batts will only hold for 2 days under a 430a draw.

My buddies 130a, with 2 batteries. or 4 for that matter, has never died with the same load. Not alts are created equal, and while it appears that he is doing fine, a simple hand check to the alt will tell you that his alt, turned egg fryer, is having issues.

Why? Large case alts have better components and can take the abuse a while longer. Stress on the while.

To anyone. Fine use physics. Show me where the Big 3 can give you the 70a per 1000w necessary to properly run the sytem and ill kiss your ass on camera and post it on Realm.

Big 3 is a great idea, pre or post alt upgrade, but it isnt a "fix", period.

For the last time. Alts are NOT battery chargers. They are maintainers. If your alt is 90a, its because with everything running your car needs 90a. Introduce an additional 1000w and you need another 70a (approx). Will it work, for a while. Is it correct? No. If you exceed the demand of your system (IE adding anything to the stockj load) you are already surpassing the recommended load to be placed on that alt. How much you place on it dictates how long it will live, coupled with a few other factors, of course. Point is. The very first thing to replace in a healthy system is the alt, then work your way back.....then HU, then Speaks, then sub and amps. Just because many choose to do it ass backwards doesnt make them right.

Systems are ALL about the transference of power. Your vehicle requires what the stock alt makes, and doesnt really have any extra to give, i dont know how to ,make this any plainer.

Edited by Renegadesrun

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Show me where the Big 3 can give you the 70a per 1000w necessary to properly run the sytem and ill kiss your ass on camera and post it on Realm.

*Crickets.*

Thats right.

:woot:

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ok its not a fix ur right, but just because ur car has a 90a alt doesn't mean it needs all 90a, think about it.

Your car comes wt a stock radio and amp already, ur not using your power windows all the time, your not using your wipers all the time, your not using your bright lights 24/7 hell your don't even use your lights all the time,

But you can run a 1000watt amp on a stock system, point blank, i've done it on more than one car.

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*sigh*

I was gone all weekend so i didnt see this. Let me learn you something.

The alternator is designed to put put 13-14.5v to charge a battery whic his generally 12.4-12.8v depending on design, quality, and if it is partially or almost fully charged.

The battery needs a voltage supply greater than itself to stay charged. When you begin to overdraw the alternator you run strictly off the battery wit hthe alternator topping the battery off when it gets a chance.

If overall system voltage is sucked down to 13v by a sudden 100a draw and the little stock 5-6ga (or smaller) chargeing wire that is dropping a full 1v, your battery is now completely independant and is actually having current flow backwards towards the alternator.

If you eliminate that voltage drop, you eliminate a lot of havoc on your battery. Does it mean the alternator is magic and can suddenly produce anotehr 70a? no. However it does ease the load a little.

And it is mroe than possible for the chargin wire to drop close to 1v if it is small and oxidised.

Big 3 is not the new "cap" all the "cap" did was add an extra load to the alternator and battery if the alternator didnt already have the juice to charge the battery and run the system. The big three is easing the alterntors job of topping off the battery under load.

It isnt a stand in for a better electrical system but it does serve to effectively solve voltage drop problems.

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ok its not a fix ur right, but just because ur car has a 90a alt doesn't mean it needs all 90a, think about it.

Your car comes wt a stock radio and amp already, ur not using your power windows all the time, your not using your wipers all the time, your not using your bright lights 24/7 hell your don't even use your lights all the time,

But you can run a 1000watt amp on a stock system, point blank, i've done it on more than one car.

Not on all stock systems, as not all alt are created equal.

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*sigh*

I was gone all weekend so i didnt see this. Let me learn you something.

The alternator is designed to put put 13-14.5v to charge a battery whic his generally 12.4-12.8v depending on design, quality, and if it is partially or almost fully charged.

The battery needs a voltage supply greater than itself to stay charged. When you begin to overdraw the alternator you run strictly off the battery wit hthe alternator topping the battery off when it gets a chance.

If overall system voltage is sucked down to 13v by a sudden 100a draw and the little stock 5-6ga (or smaller) chargeing wire that is dropping a full 1v, your battery is now completely independant and is actually having current flow backwards towards the alternator.

If you eliminate that voltage drop, you eliminate a lot of havoc on your battery. Does it mean the alternator is magic and can suddenly produce anotehr 70a? no. However it does ease the load a little.

And it is mroe than possible for the chargin wire to drop close to 1v if it is small and oxidised.

Big 3 is not the new "cap" all the "cap" did was add an extra load to the alternator and battery if the alternator didnt already have the juice to charge the battery and run the system. The big three is easing the alterntors job of topping off the battery under load.

It isnt a stand in for a better electrical system but it does serve to effectively solve voltage drop problems.

I wouldnt add an HO alt without doing the electrical upgrade first.

My point is the big 3 is being passed off like the cap was, as a fix. Just like an extra battery. That gets passed around like no other as well. I watch ppl tell guys dont use caps, and will tell them how their alt is getting its ass kicked by the having to charge the cap on top of all else.....then say an extra battery will help tho. wtf?

My point is, its not. Its just another bandaid for an underlying problem.

Noone wants to hear it because they dont want to pay the additional money to do the job right and to believe that the cheaper route will do them fine.

Big 3. Good idea! Not a fix.

Not useless, ....and not a fix.

What was i supposed to learn? Im not the one running around telling ppl 1/0 will magically supply 70a or better. Im the one who has learn this lesson over years of trial and error. Im the one who knows just how long a stock domestic and a stock Hitachi will last. Im the one who is willing to admit, yea, that 300 dollar alt? Good idea.

Tell you what, you guys recommend wtfe you want. Believe wtfe you want. Its your right.

Im wasting my time.

Edited by Renegadesrun

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Im not the one saying it will magicaly supply 70a either, im saying it will further in helping the alt keep the battry topped off, when you have a weak chargin system, that is how your vehicle is going to run.

For some it does "Fix" the problem Caps will not help voltage drop with long drawn out bass (all they care about is lights dimming). Big three sometimes will. It did with my truck, but then agian i didnt have very much dimming in the first place. :)

NOTHING is better than upgrading your alt but when doing stereo on a budget that isnt always the easiest thing to do.

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:ughdunno:

ALl ths info what to believe, lol

ur right about one thing, people are going to nelieve what they want to, lol.

u guys are getting way to uptight about a topic that i'm sure ahs been discussed a million times over.

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tru dat homie :D

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