Can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers and 1 subwoofer?

[Notorious97200 339]

You could take some time, and have a serious look at the build logs you can find on this forum. There are dozens of good builds. You'll learn a lot.

A 4 channel amp, a set of component speakers, and a sub later ....you're on the right way. And in good hands with M5 ! Listen to him, lucky guy !!!

 

Don't forget the SSA store : they have amazing products at great prices.

 

[///M5 2,833]

8 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

ok thanks! so ill look into a premade MDF mount, and i can just buy some spray to coat it so it is water proof.

Please re-read.  Those baffles are not made for YOUR car.  Before you do anything you should pull your doors and start measuring.  Until then stop shopping, you are not ready.

[lithium 358]

On 3/23/2016 at 0:03 AM, Florida_Audio said:

ok thanks! so ill look into a premade MDF mount, and i can just buy some spray to coat it so it is water proof.

What waterproof spray or material would you suggest thats cheap, but works well?

Should I waterproof it AFTER i drill the holes into it for the speaker to fit. So the holes drilled are also waterproofed on the inside of them? Does this matter?

Thanks for pointing that stuff out about JBLs points. I do appreciate the effort you have given to help me !

The clay seems easy enough, cant really mess up sealing with clay right? But i am in florida and it gets VERY hot very often. wondering if theres some special clay that is good to put as a seal, but wont melt from heat? Or should i just get something else to seal it, but is going add a good amount of mass? Maybe speaker caulk would be the next best thing that is heavy? or some heat resistant clay? does it matter what brand clay if i can find one thats heat resistant? Thank you so much for explaining the reason why clay is used over other things. I like to hear what to do, but explaining why i should do it is all that much more helpful!

I was confused about baffles, because most of what i saw that were named "baffles" were the crutchfield kind, and ive read things saying baffles help, but then i also heard the closed back to those baffles hurts the sound cause no air flow. My understanding is that speakers need air behind them to help them push the air in front of them. but you want to normally mount speakers flush with the door leading into your vehicle, correct? and to make the speaker be flush with the door to the inside of your vehicle, that is where you choose the length of the baffle? so if the baffle is longer then it can extent to reach and be flush with the door panel and send sound directly into your car, and so sound does not leak out and back inside the door panel? and the mass on the door and sound or vibration inert material such as MDF wood, but u want to waterproof the wood or else humidity will make the MDF swell up and sort of destroy the mount?

Thanks!!!!!!! I cant wait to get this stuff done, but so nice to make sure its all going to go well with the great info you guys provide me!

neither the baffles i posted or m5's where premade baffles. get a jig saw and some wood/plastic cutting board and fab them up. 

for mdf you need to do some serious work to seal them. i used fiberglass and then addition sealing with spray seal. fiberglass is doing most of the work here so the spray is probably overkill. MDF will disintegrate if it gets just a little wet. 

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-12-oz-LeakSeal-Black-Spray-265494/203165631

I never had good luck sourcing good non-hardening clay. Duct seal is the way to go, similar density as clay and handles temps better.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Gardner-Bender-Duct-Seal-Compound-1-lb-Plug-1-Each-DS-110/100212441

Most of what you've read on baffles at other sites is garbage, welcome to car audio... 

Your understanding of how speakers work is also wrong, the reason you put a speaker in box is because the when the speaker cone moves it creates a sound wave from both the front and the rear of the speaker cone. These two sounds waves are out of phase with each other which means if they interact with each other at your ear drum the sound is cancelled out. This is why you seal the access holes in the doors. (the enclosure which the speaker is mounted in also affects the behavior of the speaker, ie designing subwoofer enclosures)

google, constructive and destructive interference of sound waves. 

I wouldn't bother with you idea to seal the front of the speaker to the door trim. You can test the effects of the door trim on sound by listening to the speakes with and without the door trim installed. If there is an issue you could add sound absorbing foam or similar material behind the door trim. Sealing like you mentioned might be worth a shot as well. Dont worry about it until you identify that there's actually an issue.