Can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers and 1 subwoofer?

[Florida_Audio 55]

If i get a head unit with 3 RCA outputs, front, rear, and subwoofer.

can i use a 4 channel amp to power 2 front speakers, and the  bridge the other 2 channels to power one subwoofer?

this amp :  http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_44492_Hifonics-Zeus-ZRX1000.4.html

and these speakers :    http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_34364_Alpine-SPR-60C.html

the amp says says:

• 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier
• Max Power Rating:

• 4 ohms: 125 watts x 4 chan.
• 2 ohms: 250 watts x 4 chan.
• Bridged, 4 ohm: 500 watts x 2 chan.

the speakers say:

RMS Power Handling 110 watts (each speaker)

Sensitivity 88 dB

Frequency Response 65 - 29000 Hz

Impedance (Per Voice Coil) 4 ohms

 

so because the amp says bridged 4 ohm 500 watts x 2 channel. does this mean i can only get a subwoofer compatible for 4 ohm?

Now that it says 500 watts x 2 chan, does this mean my speakers will be way overpowered? or can i set the amp to give different watts for speakers and different watts for the subwoofer?

do i loose any ability to edit how they sound because they are bridged, like would i loose the ability to adjust any types of controls for either speakers or subwoofer?

so im wondering what would be the cons to doing this if its even possible?

i should have room to add a subwoofer with this amp, assuming this is possible?

Thank you guys!

 

edit: i just briefly read an article about dual voice coils and how they allow you to somehow alter the ohms.... seemed bit confusing, but now that leads me to another question. is single or dual voice coil better for this type of setup with bridging? from what i understand, it seems the dual voice coil options are not needed as long as i keep the ohms the same for the speaker, amp, and subwoofer? as in this case, as long as all are compatible with 4 ohms, it should be fine?

 

these 2 subwoofers seem cheap enough and have decent reviews, not looking for crazy large bass, just something basic to help produce lows. think these would work? one is dual, other is single coil. which is better if they would fit with my other parts listed above? to be honest the single coil is cheaper and prob would fit my budget alot better. what type of box enclosure would i need for these?

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_12333_Polk-Audio-db840.html

 

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_16143_Polk-Audio-db840DVC.html

Edited March 19, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[///M5 2,833]

Yes you can bridge 2 chn and use a 4chn that way.

As for the equipment....I'd rethink the links, but start with your goals, space and budget.  You aren't ready to shop yet.

[Florida_Audio 55]

5 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Yes you can bridge 2 chn and use a 4chn that way.

As for the equipment....I'd rethink the links, but start with your goals, space and budget.  You aren't ready to shop yet.

ok thanks. what do you mean by goals and space?

[frogcase2002 393]

2 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

ok thanks. what do you mean by goals and space?

 

What do you want to Atchive from this setup and how my space are you willing to take up for sub enclosure and stuff

[Florida_Audio 55]

8 hours ago, frogcase2002 said:

 

What do you want to Atchive from this setup and how my space are you willing to take up for sub enclosure and stuff

i want to have good quality sound. loud enough to hear it while driving on the highway with windows down and be happy. but not so loud that its pointless, and too loud. i like clarity. and the bass doesnt have to be booming too loud. i just want the subwoofer to produce bass to i can listen to an overall decent sound so it takes up the lower end of frequency. clean crisp quality bass, nothing overpowering.

for space, i i have the whole trunk i can use if needed, i guess, but id dont want to spend too much on the bass, just something "good enough" should be fine to produce okay bass.

thank you

[Florida_Audio 55]

On 3/19/2016 at 11:08 PM, ///M5 said:

Yes you can bridge 2 chn and use a 4chn that way.

As for the equipment....I'd rethink the links, but start with your goals, space and budget.  You aren't ready to shop yet.

ur comment is concerning

what do u mean by rethink the links and im not ready to shop yet?

are these not compatible? will they not work well?

i plan on running the front components with the 4 channel amp, and the subwoofer with the same amp. but can i then run the rear factory speakers off the head unit? will this work well?

Please let me know, i plan on purchasing these very soon, thank you!

[///M5 2,833]

You picked things without goals.  That is not how to shop.

Installation location is SUPER critical for anything to sound good.  If you are looking at rears it is also obvious this isn't thought through.  They will be a net negative in particular if your goals are truly what you stated above.

The other aspect you need to layout now is what restrictions you have for mounting locations/space etc.  Obviously you won't need the whole trunk for what you described, but starting with an enclosure space you'd like to use would really help.

2 other problems with the links.  Most people don't need them and it is annoying to click, saying the model number really helps and secondly you just sort of posted a hodge podge of randomness so we aren't following why you chose what you did and then trying to determine how it fits your install and goals is confusing to say the least.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

You picked things without goals.  That is not how to shop.

Installation location is SUPER critical for anything to sound good.  If you are looking at rears it is also obvious this isn't thought through.  They will be a net negative in particular if your goals are truly what you stated above.

The other aspect you need to layout now is what restrictions you have for mounting locations/space etc.  Obviously you won't need the whole trunk for what you described, but starting with an enclosure space you'd like to use would really help.

2 other problems with the links.  Most people don't need them and it is annoying to click, saying the model number really helps and secondly you just sort of posted a hodge podge of randomness so we aren't following why you chose what you did and then trying to determine how it fits your install and goals is confusing to say the least.

i guess i dont really need the rear speakers? i dont plan on getting aftermarket speakers in the rear. i was just wondering if the rear speakers would still work, and/or sound okay with the rest of the setup?

im not sure how i should deal with the rear speakers? i heard i dont really need to upgrade them. but not sure if that means i should still try and have them hooked up to play some sound.

what do you mean by an enclosure space i would like to use? do you mean, like where do i want to place the subwoofer and amplifier?

for the links heres the model number and description of items i want to purchase, let me know if you would suggest something else or any comments on them?

i have a 2013 hyundai elantra coupe by the way.

Hifonics Zeus ZRX1000.4   -  1000W 4-Channel Class A/B Zeus Series Car Amplifier

Alpine SPR-60C   6.5" 2-Way Type-R Series Component Car Audio Speaker System

alpine cde 163bt    ( not sure if the alpine cde 164bt is any better or different? )

i would like the bridge 2 of the channels on the amp to power a subwoofer later on.

and the subwoofer i have no clue yet, i will get one in a few months, but for now i think the amp, front speakers, and stereo should be fine?

the amp will just be a low budget one with decent quality, and does not need to be crazy thumping and such.

Edited March 21, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[///M5 2,833]

Just unplug the rears.  They seriously screw up the sound and have no benefit.  COMPLETELY pointless.

What/where/how/etc does the box be/go?  Same with the front speakers...

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Just unplug the rears.  They seriously screw up the sound and have no benefit.  COMPLETELY pointless.

What/where/how/etc does the box be/go?  Same with the front speakers...

ok thanks, i guess i will just not hook up the rear speakers to my new head unit.

by box you mean the subwoofer? i would probably put it in the trunk, but i honestly have not done much research on the subwoofer yet, because i dont plan on getting on until a few months from now. and when i do look, ill want the cheapest stuff that produces decent quality. id prob look to spend around $100 for the sub and its box? if thats reasonable?

the headunit i am getting from alpine, seems to have ALOT of great options to adjust EQ for speakers and subwoofer, that seems really nice to adjust everything.

and for where the front speakers will go, i assumed i would just remove where the old speakers were and place the new speakers there, and where the old tweeters were. it looks like my car has some openings above the door handle by the front window, where there can be tweeters installed.

where or how else would i install these items? im not sure i have other options? any insight is appreciated. once again, thank you!

[///M5 2,833]

Baffle, deadening, etc are pre-requisites for fronts.  Install is everything....

Stock locations and what/how fits you NEEd to figure out before shopping.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Baffle, deadening, etc are pre-requisites for fronts.  Install is everything....

Stock locations and what/how fits you NEEd to figure out before shopping.

i dont think ill get speaker baffles, because i heard they can hurt the sound a bit?

and sound deadening seems expensive, i was thinking i can do it later?

around how much would it cost to buy enough sound deadening for just the front doors? is that the only area i should put it?

 

[///M5 2,833]

Umm, no.  Speakers without baffles are stupid.  You NEED to make a nice firm mounting structure for the speaker as the stock crap is junk.  Easiest way is a nice thick baffle.

If you aren't going to baffle and deaden, don't bother doing anything.  I'd rather spend $30 on a set of speakers and install them right than $500 on a better set and bolt them in the stock mounts.

[Florida_Audio 55]

2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Umm, no.  Speakers without baffles are stupid.  You NEED to make a nice firm mounting structure for the speaker as the stock crap is junk.  Easiest way is a nice thick baffle.

If you aren't going to baffle and deaden, don't bother doing anything.  I'd rather spend $30 on a set of speakers and install them right than $500 on a better set and bolt them in the stock mounts.

ok thanks. so what baffles would you suggest for my speakers i listed above, if you could please suggest some. and any special way to use the baffle or just put the speakers into it?

and what brand deadening would u suggest, or any should be good? and around how much should i be looking to spend on a good amount of sound deadening?

[///M5 2,833]

You have to make the baffles.  Normally I use PTFE as it saves all the effort in sealing and making MDF water proof.  There are probably some MDF ones on the internet/ebay, but they are somewhat pointless in that if you can fit a larger baffle in your space you should.  The only way to do that is to make them, but it is as simple as cutting a round hole and and then jig sawing the shape on the outside.

Deadening is simple.  There is only one choice.  Sound Deadener Showdown.  If you really want to do it right you should deaden and use an MLV barrier, but you are going to rapidly chow your budget.

If I were budget limited the FIRST thing I would do in a car is fix the stock install.  It is always crap.  Shocking how much better things sound just by doing that.  

[///M5 2,833]

Example baffle from my Escalade.  This is the test fit so no deadening, but you can see the baffle.

...and yes the Yellow cutting board was cheaper, lol.  I could fit 1" so that determined the color.  The thicker the better.

 

[Florida_Audio 55]

4 hours ago, ///M5 said:

You have to make the baffles.  Normally I use PTFE as it saves all the effort in sealing and making MDF water proof.  There are probably some MDF ones on the internet/ebay, but they are somewhat pointless in that if you can fit a larger baffle in your space you should.  The only way to do that is to make them, but it is as simple as cutting a round hole and and then jig sawing the shape on the outside.

Deadening is simple.  There is only one choice.  Sound Deadener Showdown.  If you really want to do it right you should deaden and use an MLV barrier, but you are going to rapidly chow your budget.

If I were budget limited the FIRST thing I would do in a car is fix the stock install.  It is always crap.  Shocking how much better things sound just by doing that.  

wow honestly thank you so much for that info!

i thought speaker baffles looked like this, like just a cup or something , but what you are showing looks like something else?

i thought these were speaker baffles? http://www.crutchfield.com/S-IBEtbKcg9eS/p_696B050330/Boom-Mat-6-1-2-Speaker-Baffles-Regular-3-depth.html

but u are saying to get something like these? (bezel rings?) http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_95248_Audiopipe-RING-6.5GR.html

sorry for the links, but i dont think model number would help for those.

whats the difference between bezel rings and baffles? yours look like bezel rings from what ive seen online?

i read you should seal the MDF material to make water proof like you said. i am in florida and its pretty humid almost all the time, so i guess thats definitely needed?

so, for the sound deadening, ive read you need to do it on both sides of door panel? inside door, and behind the inside. but you also need to clean the inside out with some alcohol first?

and sound deadener showdown says to only cover 25% of door. is that for all brands of sound deadening, or just his brand?

 

[///M5 2,833]

I wouldn't buy those rings.  Read my recommendation again, but yes you found an example.

As for how much deadening, just don't buy any other.  Seriously.

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

I wouldn't buy those rings.  Read my recommendation again, but yes you found an example.

As for how much deadening, just don't buy any other.  Seriously.

i dont have any equipment to make the rings.

wondering if you can suggest some rings for 6.5 inch speakers that are good enough, even though they are premade?

[///M5 2,833]

Again, it depends on what fits in YOUR car.  There is no equipment holy grail, EVERYTHING is specific to your car.  Please focus on taking it apart and then determining what will work.

[Florida_Audio 55]

On 3/21/2016 at 4:41 PM, ///M5 said:

Again, it depends on what fits in YOUR car.  There is no equipment holy grail, EVERYTHING is specific to your car.  Please focus on taking it apart and then determining what will work.

ok i think i understand a bit more now. i was quite lost when you said stuff like you were not sure what to get to "fit" my car, but it has to do with the depth of the door panel from inside my car, to the door panel inside the panel?

and the baffle has to fit nicely against the door panel that leads into my car, so the sound goes into my car, and does not leak into my car door? right?

but im lost when using the term baffle, and bezel or ring. i think bezel and rings are the same, but the baffles ive seen have a back to them, such as the crutchfield foam speaker baffles? is this what a baffle means, to also have a closed back to it? is this what u did for your setup, is close the space behind the speaker with the baffle u installed, but its made out of MDF instead of foam?

and would you agree with steps 5 and 6 in this link?

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374070-Improving-Your-Midbass-Response-

to add foam behind and in front of the speaker? would this be okay instead of MDF, or would i do this in addition to MDF.

and when you said above that thicker is better, do you mean thickness, as in the depth of the ring, like how it fits between the panels? or thickness as in the width of the ring, as in how large of ring it is around the hole of the ring? (this is hard to describe, sorry, maybe you can help me reword this?)

 

Thanks again!

i think im almost understanding this!

Great help!

[lithium 358]

3 hours ago, Florida_Audio said:

ok i think i understand a bit more now. i was quite lost when you said stuff like you were not sure what to get to "fit" my car, but it has to do with the depth of the door panel from inside my car, to the door panel inside the panel?

and the baffle has to fit nicely against the door panel that leads into my car, so the sound goes into my car, and does not leak into my car door? right?

but im lost when using the term baffle, and bezel or ring. i think bezel and rings are the same, but the baffles ive seen have a back to them, such as the crutchfield foam speaker baffles? is this what a baffle means, to also have a closed back to it? is this what u did for your setup, is close the space behind the speaker with the baffle u installed, but its made out of MDF instead of foam?

and would you agree with steps 5 and 6 in this link?

https://jlaudio.zendesk.com/hc/en-us/articles/204374070-Improving-Your-Midbass-Response-

to add foam behind and in front of the speaker? would this be okay instead of MDF, or would i do this in addition to MDF.

and when you said above that thicker is better, do you mean thickness, as in the depth of the ring, like how it fits between the panels? or thickness as in the width of the ring, as in how large of ring it is around the hole of the ring? (this is hard to describe, sorry, maybe you can help me reword this?)

 

Thanks again!

i think im almost understanding this!

Great help!

Not sure why you're still confused as to what a speaker baffle is. It can be made out of wood or plastic. preferably something that weather proof. A robust (thick, solid, study, fucking whatever adjective you like) baffle results in more energy creating sound rather then shaking the door panel, simple physics. 

the clay like stuff around the edge is duct seal which adds mass to the door panel. 

sealing the speaker to the baffle is important, you can use foam tape, speaker caulk, or left over closed cell foam. 

wow that jl audio link is atrocious. wtf... They hit a couple key points at least. 

1. deaden the inner and outer door skin
2. create a study baffle for mount the speaker
3. seal all holes on the inner door skin 
4. decouple the inner door skin from the door trim panel 
5. additional stuff that you should do include barrier products, read everything on sounddeadenershowdown.com

BTW, Those foam baffles from crutchfield are really detrimental to sound as speakers are designed to vent into the door. I actually found a use for them in a unique situation for my build with modifications to the foam. 

 

[///M5 2,833]

Fit doesn't literally mean can be jammed into the space.  For instance a driver with a terrible off axis response would suck to use at the bottom of your door.  ie, it wouldn't fit.  Obviously sizing for the space is important too, but that is far from the only factor.

[Florida_Audio 55]

3 hours ago, lithium said:

Not sure why you're still confused as to what a speaker baffle is. It can be made out of wood or plastic. preferably something that weather proof. A robust (thick, solid, study, pucking whatever adjective you like) baffle results in more energy creating sound rather then shaking the door panel, simple physics. 

the clay like stuff around the edge is duct seal which adds mass to the door panel. 

sealing the speaker to the baffle is important, you can use foam tape, speaker caulk, or left over closed cell foam. 

wow that jl audio link is atrocious. wtf... They hit a couple key points at least. 

1. deaden the inner and outer door skin
2. create a study baffle for mount the speaker
3. seal all holes on the inner door skin 
4. decouple the inner door skin from the door trim panel 
5. additional stuff that you should do include barrier products, read everything on sounddeadenershowdown.com

BTW, Those foam baffles from crutchfield are really detrimental to sound as speakers are designed to vent into the door. I actually found a use for them in a unique situation for my build with modifications to the foam. 

 

ok thanks! so ill look into a premade MDF mount, and i can just buy some spray to coat it so it is water proof.

What waterproof spray or material would you suggest thats cheap, but works well?

Should I waterproof it AFTER i drill the holes into it for the speaker to fit. So the holes drilled are also waterproofed on the inside of them? Does this matter?

Thanks for pointing that stuff out about JBLs points. I do appreciate the effort you have given to help me !

The clay seems easy enough, cant really mess up sealing with clay right? But i am in florida and it gets VERY hot very often. wondering if theres some special clay that is good to put as a seal, but wont melt from heat? Or should i just get something else to seal it, but is going add a good amount of mass? Maybe speaker caulk would be the next best thing that is heavy? or some heat resistant clay? does it matter what brand clay if i can find one thats heat resistant? Thank you so much for explaining the reason why clay is used over other things. I like to hear what to do, but explaining why i should do it is all that much more helpful!

I was confused about baffles, because most of what i saw that were named "baffles" were the crutchfield kind, and ive read things saying baffles help, but then i also heard the closed back to those baffles hurts the sound cause no air flow. My understanding is that speakers need air behind them to help them push the air in front of them. but you want to normally mount speakers flush with the door leading into your vehicle, correct? and to make the speaker be flush with the door to the inside of your vehicle, that is where you choose the length of the baffle? so if the baffle is longer then it can extent to reach and be flush with the door panel and send sound directly into your car, and so sound does not leak out and back inside the door panel? and the mass on the door and sound or vibration inert material such as MDF wood, but u want to waterproof the wood or else humidity will make the MDF swell up and sort of destroy the mount?

Thanks!!!!!!! I cant wait to get this stuff done, but so nice to make sure its all going to go well with the great info you guys provide me!

Edited March 23, 2016 by Florida_Audio

[Florida_Audio 55]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

Fit doesn't literally mean can be jammed into the space.  For instance a driver with a terrible off axis response would suck to use at the bottom of your door.  ie, it wouldn't fit.  Obviously sizing for the space is important too, but that is far from the only factor.

ok thanks yea. i read that tweeters are good to be placed level with your face. higher and some mid frequency sounds get lost when not placed in a good angle towards your ears.

But also for the speaker baffle. do you use the plastic mount that comes with the speakers, and then add the MDF mount on top of it?

i see so many videos of people cutting out their MDF mounts, but have never seen any video about installing the MDF mount in detail. id like to see how you install the MDF to the door and such?

thanks alot !