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Peter Lee

[NEED HELP PLEASE] JL,SUNDOWN, SPL OR SQ?

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http://www.reddit.com/r/CarAV/comments/2qzbmm/500_budget_help_me_please/ <----- old post...... I've came to the conclusion of getting some sundown X 15's or 18's since they're only $20 price difference OR some 12' JL W6's since it's on sale for $500 with the original JL box. i have a budget of about $400-500 just for the subs since i need an enclosure and an AMP that i still need to find... What's the cheapest amp(not some walmart $100 amp that says it powers 3k watts) but a decent one that can power those sundowns or JL's without a problem? I drive a 2007 civic si so i have about 11.5 cubic feet in the trunk so.... what do you guys think? sundown or JL? any other brands are welcome under $500 and im not sure if im more into &quot;SQL&quot; or SQ... i used to have the W7 and i liked how it shoook up the neighborhood, i also had 2 alpine type R's but they werent loud enough. And what're your guys input on buying used subs? anyway to tell it's been maxed out or are new ones my best bet? i appreciate any feedback I listen to mostly RAP/HIPHOP/R&B if that helps. i also have a reg car battery so would i need another battery or a capacitor? i really don't want to go over $800, are there any packages? im getting so tired of asking around forums and getting 1000 answers of pros and cons and turns into a whole discussion which i don't need.

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I would go to the for sell section. Here and get the DSS ethos that are for sale and save you for a sundown amp 800 is not a lot of money for a complete set up for good name brand stuff just saying

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Trying to run an amp over ~1000watts on stock electrical probably isn't going to happen without another battery and/or high output alt. Focus on your enclosure for output, it'll net you more than just throwing more power at the drivers.

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Trying to run an amp over ~1000watts on stock electrical probably isn't going to happen without another battery and/or high output alt. Focus on your enclosure for output, it'll net you more than just throwing more power at the drivers.

With a proper "big three" you can see little to no voltage drop on a factory alt for a little over 1000rms..I ran a cadence ia9 and ia4 with a factory alt for a bit with  minimum voltage drop. although I never got to see it's full potential on that project,I never replaced the factory alt with a HO...Depending of course on the factory alt specs..And the equipment..

 

 

But I would always recommend a HO alt if all possible..

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Trying to run an amp over ~1000watts on stock electrical probably isn't going to happen without another battery and/or high output alt. Focus on your enclosure for output, it'll net you more than just throwing more power at the drivers.

With a proper "big three" you can see little to no voltage drop on a factory alt for a little over 1000rms..I ran a cadence ia9 and ia4 with a factory alt for a bit with  minimum voltage drop. although I never got to see it's full potential on that project,I never replaced the factory alt with a HO...Depending of course on the factory alt specs..And the equipment..

 

 

But I would always recommend a HO alt if all possible..

 

 

The replacement alternators for his car are rated anywhere from 80amps to 120amps. 1000watt amp will draw roughly 70amps--more if you consider the amp isn't 100% efficient, less if you consider impedance. Stock alternators are designed to power the vehicle's electrical needs with little headroom. Even if it drew an average of 50amps that's a large portion of the alternator's output.

 

---

 

To the OP, Capacitors won't help you. I didn't mention anything about the drivers since I haven't used either. From your post it sounds like you want a driver for output not sound quality--that's not to say it won't sound good, but SQ and "shaking the neighborhood" are polar opposites. Just about any driver sold on this site would suffice. I'm biased as I've only used Fi and SSA, but I couldn't be any happier about their products. I'm not sure how Fi's customer service is these days, but I know SSA is always top notch if that's important to you.

 

I would measure your trunk and figure out how large of an enclosure you can fit / willing to use then depending on that select your driver(s) and size. E.g. an 18" is about half the cost of 2 12"s and the money saved could be used for another battery if needed, etc.

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Trying to run an amp over ~1000watts on stock electrical probably isn't going to happen without another battery and/or high output alt. Focus on your enclosure for output, it'll net you more than just throwing more power at the drivers.

With a proper "big three" you can see little to no voltage drop on a factory alt for a little over 1000rms..I ran a cadence ia9 and ia4 with a factory alt for a bit with  minimum voltage drop. although I never got to see it's full potential on that project,I never replaced the factory alt with a HO...Depending of course on the factory alt specs..And the equipment..

 

 

But I would always recommend a HO alt if all possible..

 

 

The replacement alternators for his car are rated anywhere from 80amps to 120amps. 1000watt amp will draw roughly 70amps--more if you consider the amp isn't 100% efficient, less if you consider impedance. Stock alternators are designed to power the vehicle's electrical needs with little headroom. Even if it drew an average of 50amps that's a large portion of the alternator's output.

 

---

 

To the OP, Capacitors won't help you. I didn't mention anything about the drivers since I haven't used either. From your post it sounds like you want a driver for output not sound quality--that's not to say it won't sound good, but SQ and "shaking the neighborhood" are polar opposites. Just about any driver sold on this site would suffice. I'm biased as I've only used Fi and SSA, but I couldn't be any happier about their products. I'm not sure how Fi's customer service is these days, but I know SSA is always top notch if that's important to you.

 

I would measure your trunk and figure out how large of an enclosure you can fit / willing to use then depending on that select your driver(s) and size. E.g. an 18" is about half the cost of 2 12"s and the money saved could be used for another battery if needed, etc.

 

I think "for example"  the Q1-1200d draws 120 or so if I remember correctly with a "big three" you could get by like you said though with little headroom for the rest of the automobiles electrical it would definitely be pushing it at full tilt not to mention if a front stage amplifier's draw as well as I assume will be installed..also not to mention the possibilities for damage to the electrical,if all possible I would recommend a HO alt as ASAP

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