Not Ready to Give up on FI yet. what would you do?

[Marcus Colvin 2]

I currently have an SSD 10" on a 1000/1 JL audio XD. the sub had all the cooling options and it is a dual 2 ohm

I was an all out JL fan since high school and I was happy with my W7 for a very long time. After ripping 2 foam surrounds i decided to give FI a try

 

I have a Sealed box @ .4cu. ft. and my SSD 10 has all the cooling options.. QTS, flatwound ETC ETC.  well i have had the sub let me down 3 times thus far. The first time was spider seperation and the last 2 times were either a wire breaking off the chassis mount or a melted terminal.

 

I have been out of the game for a while and im not saying im to blame for at least some of it. Truth be told I listen to Several genre's of music from Dubstep to Texas Country. I think the problem is my drive to work... it is 7 hours and i jam hard the entire way, so i know i am creating a lot of heat i cannot disperse in a sealed box correct? i am pretty good about letting it cool down every hour but i dont think its enough.  i also found out that due to my own mis calculation my box was about .75 cu. ft. instead of the .3-.4 i needed. was this the reason for my initial cone/ spider seperation? or the heat?

 

I need some guidance as to which FI sub is best for me. I am stuck with a sealed enclosure but i can ditch the JL 1000/1 if needed. the amp is only 1.5 ohm stable but is a true 1000 rms when the truck is running. do i need to ditch the amp for a one ohm stable and possible increased RMS?

 

Everything i read on the SSD section makes me weary of my next choice. Some of the series are a no go for sealed enclosures and the others are either SPL only or dont come in a 10"

 

this is just my daILY driver and i need it to be tough.  I have great power/cabling/ dual batteries/ big alt for this little 1000w setup.

 

Please give it to me strait, i can handle it-

 

-Marcus

Edited July 28, 2014 by Sixohh

[cloud77 28]

which QTS option did you choose?  not that it matters all that much as you are running sealed...You were running it @ 4 ohm?    Your amp does 1000W @ 2 ohm.  That's what you want to aim for with Dual 1 coils on your next sub.  it should be a good match with the ssd or Q.

Enclosures:

SSD 10 – We recommend using a sealed box in the neighborhood of .2-.6 cubic feet of volume (after all displacements for those wondering).

Ported box we recommend using .9-1.5 cubic feet @ 33Hz (this is optimal in our eyes and to our ears, you can tune 31-35hz fine if you so please)

[Marcus Colvin 2]

High QTS and i am running it @ 2 ohm and that was my mistake on my OP. its 2 ohms rated. not 1.5.  guess i miss my slash amp right about now.

 

what are the thoughts on a additional (triple) spider fpr a DD sub like mine?  cant hurt huh?

[cloud77 28]

How do you have it wired if you claim its a dual 2 ohm woofer?  Don't worry about the additional spider.  I think you need to look back on your install first and troubleshoot what not to do wrong this time around.  We are here to help.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

i appriciate that.

 

i have a positive and negative lead tied together on the sub then the remaining positive and negative lead going to the amp.

 

 

thats how i have it wired..... it HAS to be a Dual 1 ohm sub huh?

im just recalling it incorrectly. sorry. my memory is crap these days!

 

if it was a dual 2 ohm i would have 4 ohms at the amp and there is no way i did that.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

should i bother with the heat ring option?  im looking for heat resistance more than anything. no SPL here.

[cloud77 28]

the I heat ring is a quality of the motor.  theres no changing now.  You should be able to run this woofer @ the impedance you stated without any problems.  Have you invested into any electrical upgrades?  and what position are the knobs on your amp?

[cloud77 28]

are you using a dmm to check your final nominal load? 

[Marcus Colvin 2]

yes i did that on the initial install.  what do you mean no changing now?

 

define electrical upgrades... i have several.. its a diesel so its a factory high output alt. dual batteries and i run 1au. welding cable for power/ ground. no capacitor.

 

i hate to admit it but the JL amp i am running is their bottom line. i wish i never got rid of my slash series as i previously stated.  all it has is a bass boost, LPF and input sens.

i set the input according to the volt meter and i keep my LPF below 125 and the boost is at 6 out of 12.  im looking for an excuse to swap out my sub amp if it will be worth my while.

 

my source unit runs a near flat EQ, (Slight SLA increase) and a raw signal sent via RCA's.

not that i matters but i switched from focal to JL C5 components up front on a 400/4 JL amp

ill post up some pics.   anything i should be concerned with thus far?

[///M5 2,833]

The boost busted your sub. Should be OFF. Can't clip the crap out of stuff and expect it to last. Should be no sub that fails under music WITHOUT you hearing it go.

[cloud77 28]

your factory alt is not necessarily high output.  It puts out probably 200A to handle your 2 batteries.  One is for accessories and the other is strictly a starting battery.  I would recommend upgrading your accessory battery, doing the big 3. and you should be good.  What kind of cable do you use?  Your LPF should be somewhere around 80Hz, bass boost @ 0,  You should customize your eq on your head unit to ear.  (Doors play highs, woofer plays lows)  I wouldn't mess with the JL amp if it was me, but since you are matching it might be kinda nice.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

The boost busted your sub. Should be OFF. Can't clip the crap out of stuff and expect it to last. Should be no sub that fails under music WITHOUT you hearing it go.

thank you for that bit of information sir. that is another thing that i have never been told.  im glad i joined up here. imagine what ill know tomorrow!

[Marcus Colvin 2]

your factory alt is not necessarily high output.  It puts out probably 200A to handle your 2 batteries.  One is for accessories and the other is strictly a starting battery.  I would recommend upgrading your accessory battery, doing the big 3. and you should be good.  What kind of cable do you use?  Your LPF should be somewhere around 80Hz, bass boost @ 0,  You should customize your eq on your head unit to ear.  (Doors play highs, woofer plays lows)  I wouldn't mess with the JL amp if it was me, but since you are matching it might be kinda nice.

that is incorrect, passenger diesel trucks come from the factory with both batteries wired in parallel.  they act as one to hold amperage to compensate for this high compression that diesels require.

 

i didnt know that my LPF should be set that low. i will do that from now on!  and i was always taught to send the most true, un cut signal to the amp then let the amp do the filtering. not saying who is right or wrong its just how i was taught. If my sub amp will do the job i will be happy to leave it be. also when i tune i always kill the gain on the bass knob and tune highs alone then bring on the bass after the fact.

 

thanks for all the suggestions.  my power and ground wire is no more than welding lead with lugs on the batteries and a chassis ground right to the frame.  i will do some searching right now to see if i am sufficient or not in that department.  My alternator is a 240 and i never play the radio with the truck off. should i invest in a 1 farad cap?

[cloud77 28]

upgrading your batteries is still a good option to not put your truck's electrical system in jeopardy; no matter how the batteries act in a circuit. A compromise between good electrical and smart tuning is key.

Are you planning on reconing the woofer? If so maybe we can get onto enclosure and wiring.

[SpeakerBoy 64]

Battery > Cap.

A cap won't help nearly as much as you'd think.

Edited July 29, 2014 by SpeakerBoy

[cloud77 28]

give or take, you are making 1400W with capabilities to make more. Your truck might be a big bad machine, but you still need to make under hood changes in order to compensate for the pull on your electrical.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

im just going to order a new Q10 right now. i dont mind buying a new one because they are still half the price of a W7 and i am learning i am to blame for this damage ive done.  i dont mind starting over.

 

my enclosure is sealed and it is the one thing that cannot change. i have built it as a center console between my front seats. out of sight out of mind for the thieves..

 

my batteries are brand new 980cca AC delco but i dont know the AH rating off hand.   how important is it that my cabling is Oxygen free?  even tho my 1/0 has the gerth im sure its not OFC.  i will upgrade my alt charge wire asap and re work my grounds. as well.  but if i need to just buy a big 3 kit and be dont with it that fine too. money is not an object when it comes to my truck. i am very particular.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

give or take, you are making 1400W with capabilities to make more. Your truck might be a big bad machine, but you still need to make under hood changes in order to compensate for the pull on your electrical.

im fine with that.  and yes in my eyes my truck is my wife and or first born.  i just dynoed 803@ 1576 tq . not too bad for my daily driver. im done with the motor and am eager to focus on getting my tunes back on order.

[///M5 2,833]

Battery > Cap.

A cap won't help nearly as much as you'd think.

Translation, a cap won't do anything for your amp. May smooth the voltage to your headlights, but that is pointless as at least they are a good indicator.

im just going to order a new Q10 right now. i dont mind buying a new one because they are still half the price of a W7 and i am learning i am to blame for this damage ive done.  i dont mind starting over.

 

my enclosure is sealed and it is the one thing that cannot change. i have built it as a center console between my front seats. out of sight out of mind for the thieves..

 

my batteries are brand new 980cca AC delco but i dont know the AH rating off hand.   how important is it that my cabling is Oxygen free?  even tho my 1/0 has the gerth im sure its not OFC.  i will upgrade my alt charge wire asap and re work my grounds. as well.  but if i need to just buy a big 3 kit and be dont with it that fine too. money is not an object when it comes to my truck. i am very particular.

Not so sure you are a Q buyer. Destructive tendencies via the gain knob and misuse would state otherwise.

give or take, you are making 1400W with capabilities to make more. Your truck might be a big bad machine, but you still need to make under hood changes in order to compensate for the pull on your electrical.

im fine with that.  and yes in my eyes my truck is my wife and or first born.  i just dynoed 803@ 1576 tq . not too bad for my daily driver. im done with the motor and am eager to focus on getting my tunes back on order.

Need to share some details. Just about to Turbo my Escalade, but it won't come anywhere near to that!

[Fi 4 life 0]

I agree with m5. Look for a different sub. I don't think you'll be happy with the Q

[Marcus Colvin 2]

do i need to stick with the another SSD? any other options that hase the same mounting diameter as the FI subs? i am open for options

 

my options are kind of limited as my mounting hole diamater is 9.25. i really dont want to change my box at this time but it looks like i will have to make an enclosre change in the future to get where i want to be!

 

 

i will take to heart what i have learned here.. no more boost and a lower HPF along with my wiring upgrades.

[Marcus Colvin 2]

eye candy for s5.....   Borg warner s467.7 with a ,9 ar housing.  i built the motor.  hamilton cam, studs, 50% over exergy injectors EFI live programming and too much more to list.

 

 

back to "bidness"

thelittle sealed enclosure i made years ago for my W7

 

amps

 

my wiring is definitley not what i thought it was.  yikes.  4ga. ground and the welding cable says 600v #2 wire from the battery. and its 8 ga. going to the SUB

[Marcus Colvin 2]

 

interior. i did all the electrial/gauges and head unit mounting myself. these trucks do not come with a normal double din in the dash. i cut the factory piece, reshaped it and painted it to match...

 

 

now for some more bad news.... yall are so right on the ALT wire!!!!    barf.

my finger is on the positive wire going to the sub amp

 

you can see here the alt wire is black coming from the alt then it necks down to an even smaller green wire before the battery!

 

give it to me strait fellas!  order a 1/0 OFC big 3 kit and be done with it????  i like the XS kit but ill take yalls opinoins fo sho!

 

-Marcus

Edited July 29, 2014 by Sixohh

[jcarter1885 995]

I like welding cable(Radflex) or knuconceptz for wiring

[Marcus Colvin 2]

ive been doing a lot of reading that says OFC isnt as big of a deal as people make it out to be... especially in situations 1200rms or less.