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By jcarter1885
Deadener should be here Friday. I doubt I'll get any work done since there is a car show in town this weekend but I want to do something. I will mount DSP and try to get the ground side of the Big 3 done sometime this week.
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By MJS_IraggiAlts
PRV AUDIO Vocal Speakers....
This may not make sense initially, but a high-quality speaker will have less bandwidth than a lower quality speaker... (for the most part)
Just like a 3- or 4-way system is always better than a 1- or 2-way system. The narrower the bandwidth the speaker must play the cleaner it will sound. This will also keep you from asking the speaker to play up to its upper and lower frequency limits which are where it starts to sound "forced" to play those frequencies
Pro Audio speakers are nothing new to car audio, but I see consumers not really knowing how to properly use them and having some issues which is understandable. These are totally different than your standard coaxial speaker
If you look at the graph on the 6mr500ndy, which sounds amazing, you'll see that it can play from 90hz to 12,000hz... but if you narrow it down to what is plays "best" and more "naturally" it’s closer to 200hz to 10,000hz. Yes, it can play down to 50hz but not efficiently and not as well as 200 and up. Very low volume that would be fine but in what we do with the speaker you will want to cross it over closer to 200-300hz
I get a lot of PMs asking if this speaker will pick up where my subs leave off? … around 60-80hz. I say no but the specs say "yes”. 99-13k so that may be a little confusing if you don’t look at the graph and understand what information it has in it
So, for someone interested in using this speaker as a voice speaker, which I HIGHLY recommend, you will also need a "midbass" speaker to go with it such as a 10mb800 or 10mb500 or 8mb450.
This leads me to another piece of information. PRV model numbers have an "MR”, “MB", "SW" or "W" in between the size of the driver and wattage of the individual speaker. MR=midrange
MB=midbass
W=woofer
SW=subwoofer
This is a general guideline for what the speaker is geared towards. That doesn’t mean an 8mb450 can’t be used for midrange or and 8mr400 can’t be used for midbass. That is where the graph and interpretation of the graph comes into play
There is a lot more that goes into designing your front stage or your "voice" speakers that one of these days I’ll try and have a more in depth write up. The possibilities are endless...
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By DaViD12464
Hello, I have problem with choosing speakers (I'm just new in car audio), but I got 2 power amplifiers - CONCORD CA 2075 (300W),they are both 2 channel. One of them is bridged and connected to bass tube (raveland 400W). Second one will be connected to 4 speakers (2 x front 165mm, 2 x rear 130mm) , and I need to buy them, but I don't know how to compute how much Watts those speakers should have when i will connect them to this 300W power amplifier, which would have 2 speakers connected to + and - "left" and next 2 speakers for + and - "right". (You don't need to give me models of speakers cause idk if they will be available in my country, just give me how much watts they should have and I would really happy ;D)
And my question is can i connect wires going out of radio (normally to speakers now they are going to power amplifier) and cinch wires both at the same time??? (just got both with this stuff and I don't especially know if it's right :P
Ps. sorry for any mistakes caused by my english abilities :/
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By Joshdashef
Hello and welcome to my daily headaches! I'll start this build log off with my past setup, my current, and finally update throughout December as I work on probably the furthest this little Civic will let me go.
My instagram: https://www.instagram.com/joshdashef1/
The Past Build:
Head unit: Pioneer 80 PRS
Mono Amp: Rockford Fosgate Prime 750.1
Subwoofers: Rockford Fosgate P3D4 12" (two)
Kicker 4 gauge amp kit OFC
Stock Electrical (alternator included)
Did do the big three sometime between here and current build
Prefab Box: Q-Power Box (Dual 12s)
Tips: Tesa taping RCA's, Marking RCA's Low/Mid/High or similar,
Big Three with loom. Wire was Sky High 1/0 OFC with some 1/2" loom I believe. Old military style terminals (DO NOT USE THESE) they cracked my battery eventually.
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