2 amps (4 Ch. & Mono) on car battery?

[TheCudder 0]

Current setup is a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 Ch amp (4x150), this amp powers a 10" Infinity Kappa 100.9W (bridged) and JBL P660c components. I also have a pair of JBL GTO938 6x9's (un-amped) in the rear deck. This is running of the OEM head unit.

I blew the coil of the Kappa sub a while back so I'm looking to upgrade. What I'm wanting to do is install an Alpine Type-R 2 ohm in it's place and run it off of a dedicated mono amp. I've already purchased the Pioneer GM-D9601 amp. This pushes 1200 watts RMS at 1-ohm. And add the rear 6x9's to the Pioneer GM-8604. This amp is installed under the driver seat, so I want the second amp under the passenger seat (it fits, without the wires at least). When I went to the shop and told them I wanted to do this, the guy started telling me I need a capacitor, my amps needed to be moved to the trunk and be installed in a board/rack. Well, I need them under the seat because I can't afford to lose the ability to fold down my seats. I already had them build a custom corner sealed enclosure for the first build. They will do it how I want, but said they won't warranty it unless its done "their" way. I'm really not concerned about the warranty, I just don't want to do something I shouldn't. Anyways, my buddy who's a car audio guy said it's all BS and that I can just install a larger gauge wire (1 gauge?) and be fine with what I want to do, so I just wanted to get a second opinion before going ahead this way. I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 by the way.

Also, would running the mono amp at 2 ohm and 800 watts help my case?

Edited March 17, 2014 by TheCudder

[gprestonmoto 89]

Magnuson-Moss Warranty Act.

[lithium 358]

Current setup is a Pioneer GM-D8604 4 Ch amp (4x150), this amp powers a 10" Infinity Kappa 100.9W (bridged) and JBL P660c components. I also have a pair of JBL GTO938 6x9's (un-amped) in the rear deck. This is running of the OEM head unit.

I blew the coil of the Kappa sub a while back so I'm looking to upgrade. What I'm wanting to do is install an Alpine Type-R 2 ohm in it's place and run it off of a dedicated mono amp. I've already purchased the Pioneer GM-D9601 amp. This pushes 1200 watts RMS at 1-ohm. And add the rear 6x9's to the Pioneer GM-8604. This amp is installed under the driver seat, so I want the second amp under the passenger seat (it fits, without the wires at least). When I went to the shop and told them I wanted to do this, the guy started telling me I need a capacitor, my amps needed to be moved to the trunk and be installed in a board/rack. Well, I need them under the trunk because I can't afford to lose the ability to fold down my seats. I already had them build a custom corner sealed enclosure for the first build. They will do it how I want, but said they won't warranty it unless its done "their" way. I'm really not concerned about the warranty, I just don't want to do something I shouldn't. Anyways, my buddy who's a car audio guy said it's all BS and that I can just install a larger gauge wire (1 gauge?) and be fine with what I want to do, so I just wanted to get a second opinion before going ahead this way. I have a 2012 Toyota Camry SE V6 by the way.

Also, would running the mono amp at 2 ohm and 800 watts help my case?

 

i hate hearing the miss information shops try to sell people... If your friend knows a thing or two then i'd work with him to do the upgrade yourselves. 

1. a capacitor wont do a thing to help. you should do the big three upgrade. for the amount of power you're running this should be enough (the limiting factor will be your car's alternator). 
2. you will have to upgrade to a 1/0 awg run to the amps if you move them to the trunk. wire is cheap enough, assuming you're not buying overpriced stuff. if you stick to the underseat idea than just do a separate run to the sub amp. 
3. the sub you should get is a dvc 2 ohm model and wire to 1 ohm at the amp. if you're pulling to much power just turn the volume down. 
4. i wouldn't bother with rear speakers at all. leave them on hu power or remove them preferably. i would bridge the 4 channel to the front speakers

Edited March 17, 2014 by lithium

[THX_Elite 26]

  LMAO at the car audio shop,...they are all the same...Running it how you want to run it is absolutely fine, IF it fits where you want it to AND it gets proper cooling.  You don't truly need 1/0 gauge wire for only 1200 watts but there is nothing wrong with buying that gauge as it leaves room for upgrades down the road and IMO is actually a good Idea Keep in mind you only need 4 gauge, 2 gauge tops for the amp that is powering mids.

 

  Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums.  It really is up to you if you want to have one or not.  It will not make nor will it break your system.  ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc.

 

  Your electrical output(alternator)needs to be sufficient to prevent those types of things and also making sure you have the "Big 3" upgrade performed under the hood of your car will surpass the effects of just buying a capacitor alone!

 

  Once you get the sub you want in this case the Alpine Type R dual 2(...btw, MUCH BETTER SUBS ARE HERE IN THE FORUMS FOR LESS MONEY)the amp you have will run that sub just fine when your sub woofer is wired in parallel to equal a 1ohm load.

 

  I would also urge you to make sure your current enclosure will accomodate the specs of the subwoofer your upgrading to.  For example make sure that your enclosure in this case sealed has enough internal volume or in other words cubic feet, or in a ported encloser that is both tuned properly to the sub you want and has enough cubic feet of air space.

[lithium 358]

 

 

  Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums.  It really is up to you if you want to have one or not.  It will not make nor will it break your system.  ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc.

 

actually capacitors mask problems with the charging system 

[THX_Elite 26]

 

 

 

  Capacitors are a topic that is highly debated in Car Audio Forums.  It really is up to you if you want to have one or not.  It will not make nor will it break your system.  ALL they do is help the amp and barely at that..they do NOT prevent headlight dimming, voltage drops, clipping...etc.

 

actually capacitors mask problems with the charging system 

 

ya if they do anything, they do that the best for sure! 

 

It's funny, I have two installed, one is 175farad "batcap" and the other is a quicker firing 1farad SWX.  Well I started the car and turned on my system and all was running well, but I realized OH SHIT....My circuit breaker at the battery that goes to my 175farad cap, then 1farad cap then to the amp was not engaged!!!

But to my surprise the system was bumping quite nicely for around 3-5 minutes, until I completed the circuit. lol.

Edited March 17, 2014 by THX_Elite

[///M5 2,833]

Caps are useless and so is that shop. No debate, just fact.

[THX_Elite 26]

Caps are useless and so is that shop. No debate, just fact.

I agree the amount of cash i spent on mine along time ago, i could have used on a H/O alternator or second battery, but alas...since I did spend the cash on them I use them anyway.  Not like anyone would by em' even if I tried to sell them, so I will love them anyway as they are mine

[///M5 2,833]

I would take them out of your car. They might hide a concern you should actually resolve.

[THX_Elite 26]

  I have taken both of them out just for that reason to see if there were any issues and there were none.  There are no electrical issues, or voltage dropping.  In fact when I installed the system and big 3 I solved some electrical issues that came with the car when I bought it!

 

  I just want the H/O alternator that I am going to get on the 1st of April, from Maniac Electric Motors...they have a stock replacement drop in that is double the amps which is 180amps for not much money brand new.  I actually don't even "need" that, it will just be better over all to have it in place given my stock 90amp has 188k miles on it!

[smashedz28 110]

I had a older Tahoe at one point.. Found a higher output alt and bought it. Worst purchase ever. Every time I stopped at a light or stop sign the pos would drop voltage badly. Unless I was like 2k rpm or higher it was garbage. Pissed me off watching the gauge drop that much so often. Moral of the story is spend a few extra bucks on the alternator if your going to do it.

Edit: was a db electric alt and I think I spent no more than like $200. Glad that's gone. Turned around and bought a DC power alt for the next one.

Edited March 18, 2014 by smashedz28

[THX_Elite 26]

The one I want to order is 288 dollars, I'm not sure that the price of the alternator matters, what matters to me is if there is a warranty, and if it is a direct fit application...The mazda Millinia I have takes 3.5 man hours to change out alternators, and that is without any issues!  I mean the thing is buried DEEP under the Valve cover and sandwiched up against the radiator!...So in truth I'm hoping when my Fi BL get's here that I have no issues with powering it.

Right now I feed my Rockford T1 all 1600 watts of my amp having the gain set at .4v which is what my H/U output is, and can turn the H/U 98% up with out any issues, so I really have high hopes.  Plus the box is to small for the sub at 1.5^3 tuned at around 40hz, I don't know if that is harder to run full power or easier, maybe someone could shed some light on that part?  Because my new box is shipping out today to house the Fi BL and is actually the correct size. 2.5^3 after sub, brace and port displacements and tuned right at 32hz...I may just get another battery (if needed) and hold off on the alternator since I know this one works as it should.

[THX_Elite 26]

I had a older Tahoe at one point.. Found a higher output alt and bought it. Worst purchase ever. Every time I stopped at a light or stop sign the pos would drop voltage badly. Unless I was like 2k rpm or higher it was garbage. Pissed me off watching the gauge drop that much so often. Moral of the story is spend a few extra bucks on the alternator if your going to do it.

Edit: was a db electric alt and I think I spent no more than like $200. Glad that's gone. Turned around and bought a DC power alt for the next one.

I was just thinking, my family are mechanics...are you sure the first alternator you bought was a stock drop in with the same size pully?  Because if it was a different diameter it would most surely affect your idle speed voltage.

Update: I also learned some more and I do, in fact, actually "NEED" a H/O Alternator so I will be ordering one on the 1st for sure!

Edited March 18, 2014 by THX_Elite