Is imaging thrown out the window with 4 mids per door?

[eggyhustles 33]

Recently acquired an e36 m3 coupe. 

 

During the hunt for the car, I was also able to purchase a pair of Jehnert door panels with space for 4 6.5 mids. 

 

I've hand picked a couple items I had laying around in the garage for this build

 

So far I've got

 

Kenwood DNX9980HD

Audison Bit.1 

Zed Dreadnought, Zed Leviathan iii, & JL 1200/1

2 SSA Gcon 15's which I'll be trying out IB or possibly 3 JBL mkii 10's. 

JBL 2426H horns(Found these on craigslist for 100..steal of the century)

ID full horn bodies

 

 

Now, for the front stage, I have 2 options.

 

1. 4 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm).

2. 3 18sound 6ND430's(4 ohm) & A pair of Audax PR170M0's for midrange duties. 

 

Which sounds more logical from a tuning standpoint? 

 

Car

Edited December 22, 2013 by eggyhustles

[///M5 2,833]

Not going to stage at all

[eggyhustles 33]

Figured much. 

 

Would it be wise to fill in 2 holes on the panels and possibly go with a midbass + midrange combo? 

 

Or would 2 midbass per work? I can play the JBL's down to 800hz and the midbass should play up that high with no issues. 

[///M5 2,833]

Why do you want multiple drivers in the first place?

I will aso add that even if these were just fir midbass the door rattles and noise from that much capability will sound like ass

[eggyhustles 33]

I could've went with 1 driver, but they don't like to be played much below 120hz. 

[ricksi30 923]

Off topic, but would you mind putting some pics of the car up elsewhere?

[eggyhustles 33]

Off topic, but would you mind putting some pics of the car up elsewhere?

I've included them in the OP

[ricksi30 923]

Off topic, but would you mind putting some pics of the car up elsewhere?

I've included them in the OP

Looks nice and clean man!

[Lee Carter 150]

sweet whip!  Love that bady style...especially the M's.

[eggyhustles 33]

Thanks

 

Needs a little bit of exterior tlc, but she runs beautifully. 

 

Handles like it's on rails and pulls HARD. May not even touch it performance wise. 

[ricksi30 923]

Thanks

 

Needs a little bit of exterior tlc, but she runs beautifully. 

 

Handles like it's on rails and pulls HARD. May not even touch it performance wise. 

Make her sing pretty and you'll be set!

[///M5 2,833]

I could've went with 1 driver, but they don't like to be played much below 120hz.

of course not those NEED a ported enclosure

[eggyhustles 33]

I could've went with 1 driver, but they don't like to be played much below 120hz.

of course not those NEED a ported enclosure

 

That's the thing

 

I didn't want to do those kind of mods in this car. The OEM panels cost a small fortune. 

 

I was originally going to get the panels that were made for 2 mids per door, but I got these at a steal. 

Edited December 22, 2013 by eggyhustles

[Impious 1,476]

If you were willing to go with a different midbass driver, I have a semi-crazy idea that might work with those panels (with time alignment).

Use the forward-most hole for the Audax PR170M0, and the rear-most hole for a midbass driver. Seal off the other holes, and I would probably try to enclose the midrange so it wasn't affected by the midbass. You might be able to get away with dual midbass per side in the rear-most holes if you weren't using something with a ton of midbass output.

I don't think those Beyna drivers would work though, and that Audax driver doesn't play low at all since the motor is basically even-hung. You would have to make sure to keep the midbass in the pure midbass range.

You would basically be using a midbass arrangement that approximated this: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/150134-crazy-imaging-stock-system.html

The midrange will be well within it's piston range since you are using horns, so aiming won't matter. Just have to use TA to get everything properly aligned.

Never tried it myself, so no promises. But theoretically it could work just fine.

[Sencheezy 689]

If you were willing to go with a different midbass driver, I have a semi-crazy idea that might work with those panels (with time alignment).

Use the forward-most hole for the Audax PR170M0, and the rear-most hole for a midbass driver. Seal off the other holes, and I would probably try to enclose the midrange so it wasn't affected by the midbass. You might be able to get away with dual midbass per side in the rear-most holes if you weren't using something with a ton of midbass output.

I don't think those Beyna drivers would work though, and that Audax driver doesn't play low at all since the motor is basically even-hung. You would have to make sure to keep the midbass in the pure midbass range.

You would basically be using a midbass arrangement that approximated this: http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/technical-advanced-car-audio-discussion/150134-crazy-imaging-stock-system.html

The midrange will be well within it's piston range since you are using horns, so aiming won't matter. Just have to use TA to get everything properly aligned.

Never tried it myself, so no promises. But theoretically it could work just fine.

 

Really quick, Impious, who/what is he referencing to when he mentioned "OPSODIS setup from the Philips paper"?

[Sencheezy 689]

Lol nevermind, someone mentioned it just a scroll down haha

[///M5 2,833]

On my phone so I am bot clicking the link, but a 2.5 setup could work with a sealed mid like impbrecommendrd but the door is going to rattle like a bitch and those bryma's won't be a good choice fir any of the locations

[eggyhustles 33]

m5, why you make me sad every time I post on here. Kidding. 

 

I have my work cut out for me. 

[///M5 2,833]

Great car, used to have one. You REALLY want your midbass in the kick though. Super easy to vent up and out of the car so things aren't suffocating. Door is prone to rattles. Problem with a midbass in the kick though is no place for a midrange and getting a single driver to do both with your obvious output goals is going to be tough. Bass isn't so easy to come by in the vehicle either. One of the rare times that a bandpass is absolutely logical. Ski pass is perfect for the vent.

No way I could have fit horns in one, but I am tall. The dash seems to go rather low as well. I'd make sure that you are comfy losing a couple inches.

And to be the further bearer of bad news, good luck with tires. I averaged about 10k miles per set on mine. Car eats them like crazy...okay not the car but the way it made me drive

[mjmarovi 8]

Got another BMW guy car. What year is the car? Is it the M50 motor? No way you can own a BMW, especially an M3 and not do some peroformance mods! LOL  

 

Anyway, I've build and done some multi-driver door panels in my past, and listened to one in a certain F-250 from a Team Hybrid Audio member who won many a competition with his setup. 

 

First off, like //M5 said, you really need to make sure you deaden and strengthen those doors and panels. Honestly with any volume at all I don't see that panel working unless you reinforce it with fiberglass; what type of material is it made of? How strong are the baffles? 

 

For tuning, if in separate chambers, using the most forward driver for the mids and rest for mid-bass will work, but don't expect a spectacular stage. You can make a mid in the door work in a truck, in a car it's usually just to be loud. I highly recommend the kick-panel, which would be difficult in that car, or cutting into the footwell and using a metal grille. Doors will just be tough in any car, let alone a small car.  With a ton of time tuning it though, you could probably get decent sound from at least the drivers seat. Time correction will just be crazy, and tweeter location will play a huge part as the mids in the doors will want to really lower the stage, especially if you are running more than one set at a time in the doors.  

 

It really just comes down to whats most important to you, to pull off a truly good SQ system in that car I'm afraid i would be recommending some not so cheap drivers, processing and amps are great though, not bad for "sitting around" lol.