Help with an active front stage.

[audio-neon 34]

So as many of you know I have built several car systems, but I have never had the pleasure of using decent speakers for my front sound stage. So I am looking for suggestions.

The vehicle is a 2003 Honda Element, Speaker locations as of this point will be factory. (6.5" door, tweeters in a-pillar).

The car does have the integrated amps and sub, but I will be removing all of that eventually. The build will not take place for a while, I'm just starting to plan my build. I will be looking at running an active set up. I am also willing to take advice on amps. I currently have no equipment that I will be re-using. This will be a fresh build.

Any thoughts on:

TAngband underhung

http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-w6-1721-6-1-2-underhung-midbass-driver--264-874

vs

Fountek fw168

http://www.parts-express.com/fountek-fw168-6-1-2-aluminum-midwoofer-speaker--296-729

vs

Dayton pm180

http://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-pm180-8-6-1-2-wideband-midbass-neo-driver--295-343

I am thinking something like this for tweeter:

Tangband shielded neo tweeter

http://www.parts-express.com/tang-band-25-302sh-1-shielded-neodymium-dome-tweeter--264-804

Budget is undecided, however I would like to stay around 300$ for two midbass/tweeters.

I am also open to suggestions for pods/installation, and I understand there are probably better locations for the speakers, but as of this point I don't see kicks being practical due to the usage of the vehicle.

[///M5 2,833]

Curious what made you pick that list of drivers, seems arbitrary to me. I would like to understand before making any recommendations.

*please type the name of the driver in some short hand as it is way easier to respond versus clicking on the link for some of us. I am sure some would like the links too, but a little label like TB Underhung 6.5 would be sweet.

How big of a diameter tweet/mid can you fit and how deep?

Have plans for processing yet?

[audio-neon 34]

As you know from my previous builds, I have always used component sets that I found to sound nice and then I had one of my iasca buddies tune the crap out of my set up.

Processing isn't decided. Nothing is at this point. It's a clean slate build.

I have yet to pull the a pillar apart to see how much space is back there but I am not against building them out.

The door opening is 6.5", 4" deep.

[///M5 2,833]

Tuned for driver only acceptable?

[///M5 2,833]

If this is your dash it SCREAMS full ranger in the pillars

[audio-neon 34]

As in iasca " tuned for the seat" or as in the speaker?

[audio-neon 34]

That's close. My element doesn't have a center console.

[///M5 2,833]

Dash top is what matters.

As in bigtime FR rolloff for the passenger. Not yet to tuning, just physical locations

[audio-neon 34]

Hey, you understand this stuff better than I do, and I am always looking to learn.

[///M5 2,833]

Full rangers ONLY work on axis. ie, pointing right at your ears. In general this is of course the easiest install to do. Physically shoot at your ears and tune most of the frequency response on a single driver. Add to that you can mate them with awesome midbasses because you can usually get them to play down below 500Hz and depending sometimes well below.

Some people LOVE sparkle though and then it wouldn't be for you. Easy test though. Buy a cheap 3" driver and slap it in a weeny enclosure and listen to it in your house. Be even better though if you already have processing so you can tame whatever is needed.

[audio-neon 34]

Processing for the in home test?

[///M5 2,833]

Full rangers still need crossovers and tapering to sound good.

[audio-neon 34]

I love horns. Does that count for anything? Lol. My issues with cheap speakers is their "tinny" sound. Also cheap speakers generally sound confined, whereas my friends car the sound is effortless.

[///M5 2,833]

the response or output?

[audio-neon 34]

The response, his car was lackluster in output comparatively to any of mine, but I will sacrifice some output for better response.

[///M5 2,833]

well, they are hard as hell to tune compared to playing the great majority though a single point. I'd buy/borrow a FR88 or the the like and play with it at home.

[audio-neon 34]

I'm assuming I will need a power source. Do I need to get two to run in stereo?

[///M5 2,833]

Any stereo will work being it is a single driver. Testing in stereo won't give you any more information. Just trying to comfort yourself that you don't need a tweeter, that is the only goal. If there is enough sparkle it is then a complete win.

[///M5 2,833]

If I would have sold all my 3's I'd send you one. Can't quite live without my computer speakers though and they would sort of suck in a car anyways. Running 4" FR's for computer speakers. Super small sweet spot with them though, but considering they are at my desk in my office it is golden.

[altoncustomtech 773]

I recently did a comparison of sets of Faital Pro 3FE25's, Aura NS3's and a Fountek FE85's for pretty much the same purpose.  You can read my thoughts and miniature reviews on the third page HERE.  It's all a matter of personal preference but I don't see how a pair of full range speakers can be easily beat.  The FE85's provide quite good response all the way up high enough to catch enough of the sparkle to make me more than happy with them.  So much so I ordered a pair of the even better FR89EX's last night to use permanently in my install.

 

I've not lost any noticeable output at all going from the components to the full ranges and as a matter of fact, due to the proximity of the speakers to the listening position and the direct on axis aiming it's probably louder in all reality.  The difference in response, stage and imaging are well worth losing a little output.

[audio-neon 34]

Alton if you are interested in selling the stuff in the future that you tried out, PM me.

I'll plan on buying the fountek sean mentioned with either the amp you have Alton or the Dayton dat1? I believe.

Just so I am on the same page of thinking. What speaker formats are you thinking for the element sean? Full range and what else if anything?

[///M5 2,833]

Depends on what you can fit in the doors. Need depth and overall diameter. The bigger the better.

[audio-neon 34]

Without rebuilding the door panel, 6.5" diameter. 4" deep

[///M5 2,833]

Without rebuilding the door panel, 6.5" diameter. 4" deep

You sure that is it? I've seen a lot bigger diameter things stuffed into stock holes. Never seen the element doors off, but you would really, really, really hate to use a 6.5 when you could use an 8.

[audio-neon 34]

The elements speaker isn't mounted to the door, it's mounted to the door panel. The speaker grill pops off and the plastic is right there. When I get to the point of sound deadening I will have a better idea of what I can fit. I presume that a 7 would be easy, and an 8 would require a door pod.