people on another forum saying my box is a problem?

[Kuztomspl 12]

and they still look still siting in the box!  when I had the old one they had excursion  and riped the cone from the back of the coil  excursion is not always a good thing

[b0r 1]

They very well could. Back in the good 'ol days, before Class D amps ruled the roost the Class AB amps would get hot enough to fry eggs on, and that's no exaggeration. Back in the mid 90's I traded a US Amps A50HC to a guy who put it on four 15" Rockford subs in an S10 at either 1 ohm, or .5 ohm bridged (amp was .25 ohm stable stereo so .5 bridged was fine). Aside from the fact he had to put 4" C clamps every 6" to keep the fiberglass shell on the bed of his truck that amp ran so hot it melted the carpet on the board it was mounted to. MELTED the carpet mind you and that was perfectly fine for that piece of equipment. So hot you can only hold your hand on it for a few moments is pretty much how it goes for any amp at 1 ohm that's being run fairly good IMO. The amps have thermal protection built into them and I've yet to see that protection fail on anything of any decent build quality so I'd just let it go and start to worry about it when it does go into protect, if ever.

I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

They very well could. Back in the good 'ol days, before Class D amps ruled the roost the Class AB amps would get hot enough to fry eggs on, and that's no exaggeration. Back in the mid 90's I traded a US Amps A50HC to a guy who put it on four 15" Rockford subs in an S10 at either 1 ohm, or .5 ohm bridged (amp was .25 ohm stable stereo so .5 bridged was fine). Aside from the fact he had to put 4" C clamps every 6" to keep the fiberglass shell on the bed of his truck that amp ran so hot it melted the carpet on the board it was mounted to. MELTED the carpet mind you and that was perfectly fine for that piece of equipment. So hot you can only hold your hand on it for a few moments is pretty much how it goes for any amp at 1 ohm that's being run fairly good IMO. The amps have thermal protection built into them and I've yet to see that protection fail on anything of any decent build quality so I'd just let it go and start to worry about it when it does go into protect, if ever.

I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.

its like alton said. There are even amps today that you can cook and egg on. The amp WILL go into protection if its too hot. People who have a ton of experience with this stuff are all telling you the same thing and you still don't want to take our word for it. There is nothing wrong with an amp getting hot, but IF it goes into protection then you have to troubleshoot any problems. When an amp goes into protection it doesn't kill the amp, its just letting you know that something is wrong. Your setup is just fine, now stop babying it and play it how you really want to.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

You should watch one of Hanks videos on youtube where he actually cooks an egg on his amps. Now that is HOT!

[pro-rabbit 64]

3.5 is a tad on the small side of things, but it shouldn't be to bad off. 

 

You still never really explained the issues you are having. Is the output ok for you? Is the response curve ok for you? If so, then there is no issues at all with the sub and enclosure.

 

As for the amp getting hot, check your wiring connections and likely move your ground.

[b0r 1]

They very well could. Back in the good 'ol days, before Class D amps ruled the roost the Class AB amps would get hot enough to fry eggs on, and that's no exaggeration. Back in the mid 90's I traded a US Amps A50HC to a guy who put it on four 15" Rockford subs in an S10 at either 1 ohm, or .5 ohm bridged (amp was .25 ohm stable stereo so .5 bridged was fine). Aside from the fact he had to put 4" C clamps every 6" to keep the fiberglass shell on the bed of his truck that amp ran so hot it melted the carpet on the board it was mounted to. MELTED the carpet mind you and that was perfectly fine for that piece of equipment. So hot you can only hold your hand on it for a few moments is pretty much how it goes for any amp at 1 ohm that's being run fairly good IMO. The amps have thermal protection built into them and I've yet to see that protection fail on anything of any decent build quality so I'd just let it go and start to worry about it when it does go into protect, if ever.

I want to get the temperature after an hour and ask Rockford if it's okay, lol. The power and ground wires are not hot so I'm thinking this amp just runs this way. Gain turned down, volume barely up it basically stays the same temp.

its like alton said. There are even amps today that you can cook and egg on. The amp WILL go into protection if its too hot. People who have a ton of experience with this stuff are all telling you the same thing and you still don't want to take our word for it. There is nothing wrong with an amp getting hot, but IF it goes into protection then you have to troubleshoot any problems. When an amp goes into protection it doesn't kill the amp, its just letting you know that something is wrong. Your setup is just fine, now stop babying it and play it how you really want to.

I hear that. I reiterated for this specific amp, and not because I didn't understand any particular answer. It has been my experience since 2002 that amps heat up as they play or if there is a problem. This amp will get to 135F in twenty minutes whether it's playing a sub or not, which was more my concern. I did test it, turned the sub down to -3 at the head unit and low volume, counted how long I could hold without being burned and then again with +6 and playing loud and there was no noticeable difference. Just strange to me that the amp is roasting with no gain or heavy playing, just power.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

Edited September 11, 2013 by ChILL

[b0r 1]

What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.

get rid of the reducers. Always use the largest cable you can use. You ALWAYS want a straight run for your ground cable, don't splice it or reduce its size in the middle somewhere. What amp do you have again? Always use the largest wire your amp can fit and always use the same size ground cable as you have for your power cable. If you have larger wire it is okay to use reducers, but make sure they are as large as the amp will allow. Make sure after you do all of these things that your ground cable is no more than 3ft long and ALL of the paint is stripped away from the mounting point. Make sure that your ground is connected SOLID to the chassis of the vehicle. Edited September 12, 2013 by ChILL

[b0r 1]

What size power and ground wire are you running? Relocate the ground wire NO MORE THAN 3ft from the amp. Make sure you get ALL of the paint away from where you mount the ground cable. I usually use grounding blocks and bolt them through the floor.

0Ga on both power and ground into 4Ga reducers. I have a 4 foot run of ground into a reducer and about 2 feet of 4 ga ground so it fits into/reaches the amp. Should I consider a 4 ga only ground and try to find a spot close to the amp which is in the back seat? Stock battery is in the trunk btw and currently grounded to that.

get rid of the reducers. Always use the largest cable you can use. You ALWAYS want a straight run for your ground cable, don't splice it or reduce its size in the middle somewhere. What amp do you have again? Always use the largest wire your amp can fit and always use the same size ground cable as you have for your power cable. If you have larger wire it is okay to use reducers, but make sure they are as large as the amp will allow. Make sure after you do all of these things that your ground cable is no more than 3ft long and ALL of the paint is stripped away from the mounting point. Make sure that your ground is connected SOLID to the chassis of the vehicle.

The amp can take 4 Ga. It's a Rockford Fosgate T1000-1bdCP. I used reducers because when I bought the car, I didn't know the stock battery was in the trunk, So I found myself with 20 feet of power wire in 0 ga that I didn't need. I went the reducer route in the event I got an amp for my mids and highs. Just a simple connection with 4 ga wire. I think the only thing within 3 feet of my amp is a seat bolt so I'll have to mess with that idea next week when I paint the car. Thanks for the info. I appreciate it.

[Notorious97200 339]

Nothing seems wrong in your install, except that you don't have an amp on your mids & highs speakers !

Good siize box, good tuning frequency, good settings, quality equipment.

Amp is hot : ok, no problem, it's working.

 

Let it play...After some times you'll notice it become louder and lower.

As long as you're happy with the output, nothing to worry about.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

Nothing seems wrong in your install, except that you don't have an amp on your mids & highs speakers !

Good siize box, good tuning frequency, good settings, quality equipment.

Amp is hot : ok, no problem, it's working.

 

Let it play...After some times you'll notice it become louder and lower.

As long as you're happy with the output, nothing to worry about.

You didn't read about his spliced ground?

[RF-ChipmunK 5]

How much 4 ga do u have? That amp will never need that 1/0. And guys, I have a Charger, it's stereo-proof lol.

I am grounded off the battery as well currently. But when I ran my1500bdCp in my charger I used distros. These amps get warm at 1 ohm no lie. But the outside trim is meant to cook! If your worried about it getting warm check the mirror face around the power inputs, if that's extremely warm you may have a problem but I doubt it.

Try this bro. There is a bolt the battery is grounded too. Disconnect it. Sand it off all around it and connect your amp ground and reconnect battery ground. Upgrade that battery ground with some 1/0. U would be better off just running 4 ga to your amp instead of your 1/0 and 4. If you THINK you may get more, you shou go ahead and get some distros. Mount em close to your amps with 1/0 going in and 4 going out.

Here is what I am talking about.

And here is when I had my memphis on the seat. Grounded at the point referenced above. Where battery is grounded too. So it's probably 4 ft long.

Wait didn't you say biggest box? I got 4.2 net?