PWX 10 box

[ncc74656 2]

well given that the sub is most likely about a quarter of a cubic foot displacement and then the wood will take up about .3 cubic feet (measuring 1 cubic as OD not ID). i would hazard a guess that one would need at least 1.25 cubic feet to build a box for an 18 that does not work.

 

as for the PWX's: i really want to try and get the most out of these that i can, if for no other reason then to experience how boxes and tuning can change the sound. i will learn far more from screwing around with these than i will throwing them out and getting another speaker. that said it is entirely possible that 4 months down the road i buy a different brand but the end goal is a good sounding stereo however the journey getting there is where the real experience lies. 

 

im going to build a 75hz box for the pwx tomorrow and see what it sounds like. i am nearly positive there is no way i would ever be able to fit this kind of box in my door regardless of the speaker i am using but still... for a proof of concept and experience in box building id like to try it.

 

for this same reason i rebuilt my transmission with factory parts when everyone told me i would kill it. and sure enough my newly rebuilt transmission lasted me a month and a half before it lost 3 gears and the clutch packs were warped beyond recognition. after that i rebuilt it with 2500.00 in high performance parts and billet components. its been over a year now and zero issues with the trans. sure i spent about 400.00 on stock parts i did not need but i learned how a trans fails, how it looks when it does and what it feel like. this to me is more than worth the 400.00.

 

just in-case anyone is thinking it; the trans did not fail due to a shotty rebuild, it failed because factory power is 235hp and 398 ft/lbs or torque and my engine produces 487HP and 1,047 ft/lbs of torque.

[///M5 2,833]

You will always learn more by knowing what the design is supposed to do before you build it. Otherwise all you will learn is that the 70Hz box you built sounds different than the sealed box you built. Obviously if you had measurements that could change, but then you'll learn it isn't the driver for the job so why bother. You are down one, might as well sell the other. It would be crazy to buy a replacement without knowing that it is the right choice as that would be a further waste of money.

[ncc74656 2]

i replaced it already. i would really like to know the T/S of these damn things but i emailed crachendo, no response. the guy said he would post them on here, no response... i dont get how you can sell a speaker and not list anything... 

 

i bought them because i needed to replace my alpines and i wanted something louder. i found great reviews on crachendos (not just there website) and i have seen many people say what a great speaker they are for the price. that was my reasoning behind the purchase. 

Edited September 7, 2013 by ncc74656

[ricksi30 923]

 i dont get how you can sell a speaker and not list anything... 

What I don't understand is why someone would buy something without knowing the specs when they know that they need them. Please don't think I'm trying to be a dick when I say that.

[ncc74656 2]

lots of people around the net have said how great they sound so i did not have a second thought about them after seeing a few videos on youtube. plus for a door speaker i never looked at anything other than watts before. when i bought these i didnt know how to setup a cross over yet either.

[ricksi30 923]

lots of people around the net have said how great they sound so i did not have a second thought about them after seeing a few videos on youtube. plus for a door speaker i never looked at anything other than watts before. when i bought these i didnt know how to setup a cross over yet either.

No worries man we all start somewhere. Online reviews are only as credible as the people writing the reviews.

[///M5 2,833]

Buy a woofer tester at PE then. Of course, you will find out that it was a waste and that you should sell the drivers.

You seriously are trying to go about this the right way, but have the wrong drivers. I really hateseeing you struggle with this. Pretty much guarantee you will lose less by selling the drivers and buying something else than by buying a measurement tool.

And one other thing to clarify. I have NEVER seen a driver anything similar to the PWX where they didn't share T/S and it had a reasonable response for its application. There is NO WAY to design a driver without having them/knowing them (not saying you can't build a driver by slapping shit together and not knowing - ask Kevin) which means if they don't post them they are hiding something.

Also the typical application of that driver is NOT what you are doing. If they actually were designed appropriately for "their" application it won't be great for yours either.

I would NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy a mid-driver without posted T/S.

There are a shit ton of options that could work for what you want/need. Very, very likely it isn't those.

[Dangrebel 89]

I would NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy a mid-driver without posted T/S.

Guess that's the same reason you don't like Blues drivers.

The pwx's do not say they are meant to be be ran ported. Navid at crescendo would probably be glad to email you t/s parameters.

[ncc74656 2]

i emailed crachendo 4 times and never got a reply. if you know how to get T/s specs from them please let me know.

[///M5 2,833]

I would NEVER, NEVER, NEVER buy a mid-driver without posted T/S.

Guess that's the same reason you don't like Blues drivers.

The pwx's do not say they are meant to be be ran ported. Navid at crescendo would probably be glad to email you t/s parameters.

The biggest problem with the Blues drivers is that their value is about 10% of their price.

Your statement on porting the PWX's shows a ton. Pro Audio drivers are designed to be efficient and that includes their enclosure. Pretty much ANY PA driver worth buying is designed for a ported enclosure. I am dubious that the PWX's are, but for the goals of the OP a driver that is in that alignment fits extremely well.

And yes, the Blues guys are hiding something by not posting them. Very vanilla drivers at exotic prices. Boo.

[pro-rabbit 64]

Sorry guys, I had a set back that kept me out of the shop for a bit. I will get this done today for everyone though.

 

Again, sorry for not being around for a few days.... apparently getting old is not a myth lol

[Notorious97200 339]

smh

[pro-rabbit 64]

[Impious 1,476]

Must admit I'm not too surprised that, like many other "pro audio" drivers produced by car audio companies and marketed specifically at car audio.....these things have very little connection with true pro audio drivers outside of appearance. Parameters are very far from true "pro audio".

[///M5 2,833]

Which is a bummer since the OP actually could use a pair.

[ncc74656 2]

lol, yes i could use a pair. ok so what is a good pair of pro audio that will get loud enough to balance out with a SP4 in a truck cab? 

 

i see the T/S specs now so i will place these into winisd and play around a bit. based on these specs what do you think of this woofer? 

[pro-rabbit 64]

Other then "loud" what is your goal exactly? We have been using Crescendo for a little while and have had great success with them in our louder cars, but with our standard (sub 155(ish)db) vehicles components if used correctly work great. Systems like the FJ doing low 160's though....we couldn't get the components to keep up so we switched. 

 

If you do use these or other similar products from other companies, be sure to go active and have enough ability to adjust crossover settings and such. Other wise they can be rather bright and over powering.

[ncc74656 2]

i run a KX3 xover but i do not have an EQ. i am simply looking for a full range of frequencies at a volume that can match the 18 sp4. 

[ncc74656 2]

does anyone know what the Xmax is for these speakers? i dont think i can determine that from the graph provided can i?

[ncc74656 2]

i feel i need to post this if for nothing else to clarify for others who read these posts.

 

yesterday i noticed my new speaker started to rattle and would stop moving from time to time but not at rest, it would remain sucked in or poped out.  same thing the last speaker did but my driver side speaker has not blown yet. i noticed that the power going to my driver side speaker would greatly increase when the passenger side would stop moving.

 

today i tested my old PWX 10 on my home amp and it is not blown, no way no how. so my amps right channel is whats screwing up. for some reason it stopped messing up after i replaced the speaker?

[ncc74656 2]

im gearing up to rebuild my system. im looking at hertz 2 ways to add to this 10 or just throwing it out. now let me know if im reading this correctly: does that graph mean that the only real usable frequencies from this driver are from 45-125hz before it drops off a cliff?  if that is so then i dont think i could effectivly use this as even a mid-bass speaker. having said this would it be conceavable that i could simply build a small ported enclosure to tune these guys into a mid bass range and then add a 5.25" for the mid range and a new tweeter?

 

seeing as i already have the 10's if i can use them to fill mid bass then great but if not then... screw it.

[///M5 2,833]

No, but Imp already answered that in your other thread.

As for your other question, some comments.

- the PWX SUCKS as a midbass, do not use it for one

- a 5.25" driver is a TERRIBLE midrange for a 3 way

- a component set tweeter will not be your friend in any installation. There are very few that are worth a shit.

Component sets in general are awful. It is more than norm than unusual when building speakers to spend as much on the crossover as the raw drivers. This means a manufacturer selling a $190 set has to have $100 for the crossover or wimp it out. Now realize when you buy that set for $60 how little of that is for the drivers. In reality they still have to make 50%, so $30 worth of parts total. $15 for crossovers. Leaves lots of $$ for some seriously great midranges and tweeters, huh?

*note the $190/60 came from you.

[ncc74656 2]

60 is vendor price for our shop. as for the speakers everything i have read and have been told says that hertz are very high level speakers so i would expect they do not skimp out asmuch as you say. as for component being shit i know that is not true, having the tweeter seperate from the bass driver is better than having a tweeter positioned in the center of the cone.

 

our retail price is around 190.00 for the component speaker set i am refrencing in this post.  as for the cross over i know that i saw a HUGE improvment when i went active over passive but im not sure how much of that was alpine going cheap or the general speakers just being crap.  i intend to try out the 2 way hertz set and see how they sound in my installation and take it from there.

[///M5 2,833]

60 is vendor price for our shop. as for the speakers everything i have read and have been told says that hertz are very high level speakers so i would expect they do not skimp out asmuch as you say. as for component being shit i know that is not true, having the tweeter seperate from the bass driver is better than having a tweeter positioned in the center of the cone.

 

our retail price is around 190.00 for the component speaker set i am refrencing in this post.  as for the cross over i know that i saw a HUGE improvment when i went active over passive but im not sure how much of that was alpine going cheap or the general speakers just being crap.  i intend to try out the 2 way hertz set and see how they sound in my installation and take it from there.

Huh?

At $60 Hertz themselves are still making half...probably more. Leaves you with less than $30 for two woofers, two tweeters and two crossovers. I have mediocre office speakers and have more than $190 into my crossovers. That crossover is a simple one for a single full range driver. Sure Hertz gets a better break than I do on components, but obviously since they have $15 a side for the tweet, woofer & crossover what they use is a huge compromise. Hell, I compromised.

Not saying you shouldn't buy a component set. Point was different altogether. Discussion was on using a 10" PWX with a comp set. Crossover that would come along is near useless in its initial application and flat out won't work in the "3 way" idea.

Grab the comp set, play with them, use them to learn and then think about 3 way. You can always sell those for about what you are paying for them.

[ncc74656 2]

my manager said to me "hertz spent tens of thousands of dollars designing the cross overs to work within there setup. you should use them rather than try to throw somthing together". that does make sence to me and maybe all passives are bad but ive only had 1 passive set so far so i do want to try these to see if they are a step above alpine.  worst case i have the KX3 and dual amps to split the set later on anyway.