2010 civic sedan daily drive

[altoncustomtech 773]

Dunno what Quentin's using, but the best tool I've found for cutting panels like that is an AIR SAW with a shallow cut tight turn blade.  Works wonders if you have a steady hand.  Kind of like using a hacksaw blade by hand only not near as hard to manipulate and much faster.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

^

[lithium 358]

Dunno what Quentin's using, but the best tool I've found for cutting panels like that is an AIR SAW with a shallow cut tight turn blade.  Works wonders if you have a steady hand.  Kind of like using a hacksaw blade by hand only not near as hard to manipulate and much faster.

cool thanks

[///M5 2,833]

A real jigsaw isn't terrible either

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Have no need for a jig saw. The plastic is only 1/8 thick. Not cutting it on any specific angle.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

beginnings of the baffles

 

 

 

 

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Figured I'd do the kicks first so I can have some tunes while I hack up the doors.

 

Three layers of 2 oz mat.  Should be plenty string enough.  Notice I wet out well past my expected trim line.  This ensures consistent thickness at the edges and that the panel will rest nicely in the vehicle.  I normally wet my mat before laying it but I'm using some cheap resin and wasn't sure of the cure rate so I did it in the vehicle while making sure I didnt over wet the mat.  Too much resin can weaken the laminate.  Also notice I used FULL sheets of mat. NEVER cut up your mat unless absolutely necessary.

 

 

   

 

[lithium 358]

Looks great. Great timing, I think i picked up on a few tricks before I start my kick panels tomorrow. 

[hondakilla98 29]

Awesome "small build". I'll definitely be watching this.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

dropped my router and broke the base so the baffle is a little rough but It'll be fine after all said and done.

 

 

 

[Lee Carter 150]

nice!

[Sencheezy 689]

nice tunes yo!

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

after 2 hours of screwing around with placement its starting to look like a kick panel.  tried to get all drivers as close together as possible.

 

 

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Alrighty  here's what I thing i'm gonna do.

 

The 6.5 in the door  W6-1721 sealed in the door .55 cft gives me a F0 at 183 and F3 at 66 hz.

 

Due to the midbass being off axis in the door and its a dedicated midbass I want to keep it under 120 hertz.  The 4inch of course is in the kicks on axis.  If I seal them I'm looking at a F0 at ~300 and a f3 of ~125.  This will give me a null in frequency response between 120 and 300.  So I'm gonna port the 4" giving me a f0 at ~125 and a f3 of 86 hz.  Any comments?

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

 

[ssh 924]

These kick panel pics are giving me the itch to glass something. As always, awesome work.

[///M5 2,833]

IIRC you are using a TB for the 4. The Ti ones I have can dig pretty low at reference levels in the house. I'd evaluate potentially lowering it although considering the close proximity to the midbass that is probably inconsequential. Not sure what your output desires are though. Going to have some super potential

[lithium 358]

Why cant the W6-1721 play >120hz? 

[///M5 2,833]

Why cant the W6-1721 play >120hz?

It can, but that isn't the right question. The real question is for what listening levels will doppler distortion and output over run the 4. The goal of a 3 way is to give the FR driver enough support on both ends, but to try to invade on its response as little as possible. Easiest way to have a point source is to use a single driver. Obviously in those mounting locations and with the low frequency noise floor in a car a single 4 on each side isn't enough.

[lithium 358]

 

Why cant the W6-1721 play >120hz?

It can, but that isn't the right question. The real question is for what listening levels will doppler distortion and output over run the 4. The goal of a 3 way is to give the FR driver enough support on both ends, but to try to invade on its response as little as possible. Easiest way to have a point source is to use a single driver. Obviously in those mounting locations and with the low frequency noise floor in a car a single 4 on each side isn't enough.

 

 

Doppler distortion, interesting stuff, guess I have some reading to do.  

[///M5 2,833]

Don't forget the primary goal of a 3 way and that is to have a single driver playing as much of the frequency range as it can. Close proximity to the other drivers helps the handoff, but avoiding it is even better.

[lithium 358]

Don't forget the primary goal of a 3 way and that is to have a single driver playing as much of the frequency range as it can. Close proximity to the other drivers helps the handoff, but avoiding it is even better.

 

right, I think i'll approach tuning this area a bit differently in my install. 

 

ported kicks sounds pretty nuts. would love to see it. 

[Randal Johnson 544]

Nice work on the kicks Q !!

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Why cant the W6-1721 play >120hz?

It can, but that isn't the right question. The real question is for what listening levels will doppler distortion and output over run the 4. The goal of a 3 way is to give the FR driver enough support on both ends, but to try to invade on its response as little as possible. Easiest way to have a point source is to use a single driver. Obviously in those mounting locations and with the low frequency noise floor in a car a single 4 on each side isn't enough.

This and since the midbass is off axis i don't want it to climb into vocal range too much and throw off staging.

As long as is wants and doesn't sound like shit I'll be happy.

On another note I really want to keep the factory head unit for the time being. I should be able to use a 10:1 signal reducer from the factory outputs directly into the DSP right?

[///M5 2,833]

Is the stock headunit have a flat response? Which DSP atm?

*having a hard time understanding a DSP that can't take at least 1v and have never seen a headunit with 10v outs...