Motor head opinions needed, got real trouble now....

[altoncustomtech 773]

Alright, first off I blame Nick and Quentin for this.  The engine never made a sound until I was chatting with them last night.

 

LOL, just kidding guys, I figured it was coming.  I had that nagging gut feeling, even when we were talking last night.

 

Okay, background for those who are confused, I got a call from a friend a couple of weeks ago needing some help and pulled out of a flooded area after some particularly heavy rains.  He's a good friend so I didn't hesitate to go help him.  On the way there, on a completely different road in a completely different area, AND one that's not normally prone to flooding problems I dropped down a hill and came around a turn with no time to stop and found myself in the same position as the friend who called me.  Flooded the engine out with water, hydrolocked and the works and had to call my wife to bring the 4 wheeler and tow it home.

 

I've been working gingerly with it for the last couple of weeks.  The first thing I did was pull all six plugs and drain water out of 4 of the cylinders after turning it over by hand.  Changing the oil, running Lucas and Seafoam through it, babying it along trying to clean all the water out and I changed the rest of the fluids as well (both differentials, etc.)  to be sure all the bases were covered and that was SEVERAL oil changes only running the engine long enough to rise fresh oil through all the oil passages, bearings, etc.  Today was to be the last oil change as it was no longer getting milky and everything seemed as though it was going to be just fine.  So I drained the oil out, rinsed some diesel fuel through to rinse out the bottom of the pan and then chased that with a couple of quarts of oil after it had a chance to sit there and air out for a bit to make sure it was as good as it could get.  I then refilled it with oil, changed the oil filter and double checked that the oil level was about a quarter inch or so above full before filling the oil filter.

 

Then it happened, I started it up to fill the oil filter, check pressure and give it a test drive and as soon as it fired I heard the bearings squalling.  Shut it right back off to double check what I was hearing, to make sure it wasn't a belt, or the starter hung up, or anything of that sort.  Once I was convinced I knew what it was I started it again and let it run and after about 10 seconds the squalling stopped but it had that dreaded rattle in the bottom end.  All that work and care to baby it along and this happened, kinda just pisses me off but there's nothing that can be done about it now but get it repaired and move on.

 

 

That brings me to the subject of the topic.  Where the hell should I go from here?  Should I even screw with trying to rebuild this damned thing or should I just go and find a long block and start over?  If you think I should rebuild this engine, what would be your suggestions for doing so?  Parts from where?  How much of it would you replace?  I've searched for the parts to rebuild the bottom end before for the engine in the '98 playtoy and for about double the cost I can get a long block with a warranty which just seems like the better option in all reality.  I need some direction here, I'm too frustrated with myself and the situation to think straight.

 

Sorry my brothers of Team IAK, it's not looking like the Jimmy is going to make it for Slamology now.

[audio-neon 34]

What vehicle and what motor?

[altoncustomtech 773]

Sorry, thought it was a little more self explanatory.  

 

2001 GMC Jimmy 4x4 with 4.3l Vortec V6.

[NDMstang65 403]

Probably cheaper to get a short block..or get a 4.3 out of car-part.com than it would be to machine/rebuild that one.

 

Sorry the bearings ate dude i suggested all i knew to try

[altoncustomtech 773]

Probably cheaper to get a short block..or get a 4.3 out of car-part.com than it would be to machine/rebuild that one.

 

Sorry the bearings ate dude i suggested all i knew to try

 

That's where my thoughts were going as well.  I don't think there would be much to machine at all, but the cost of having it boiled out and figuring out what all parts it will need and everything is a bit overwhelming to think about.

 

 

Yeah I appreciate the help dude, I really do.  I only wish I could have either known the road I was on was flooded or that I could have stopped in time.

[///M5 2,833]

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

[altoncustomtech 773]

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

 

Liability only, don't see the point in fully insuring a 12yo vehicle.

[nadcicle 77]

I would see this as an opportunity to go forth with a 5.3 or 6.0 V8 swap if you've ever thought of doing one. Or find a low mileage 4.3 that looks clean internally. After working on bearing work you are going to wish you just changed the entire engine out anyways in the long run.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Find a U-pick yard and get a complete engine for dirt.

 

 

I always replace when it comes to water and oil mixing.  Seen too many bearings wiped. 

[djjdnap 78]

yea i agree come to indy and goto pick a part or pull a part

 

pullapart only cost 90$ 20$ core if you care to bring it

gotta take it off yourself in the yard though

[///M5 2,833]

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

 

Liability only, don't see the point in fully insuring a 12yo vehicle.

Crap, you just found it. Since you don't have it, I'd do what the insurance company would and part it out. Water gremlins will chase it for years.

[nem 2,019]

 

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

 

Liability only, don't see the point in fully insuring a 12yo vehicle.

 

Crap, you just found it. Since you don't have it, I'd do what the insurance company would and part it out. Water gremlins will chase it for years.

 

Sean is right on the money with water gremlins. I have seen cars brought up from down south that went through flooding and were sold as R title and the people have had nothing but issues even though the major issues were repaired.

[altoncustomtech 773]

I would see this as an opportunity to go forth with a 5.3 or 6.0 V8 swap if you've ever thought of doing one. Or find a low mileage 4.3 that looks clean internally. After working on bearing work you are going to wish you just changed the entire engine out anyways in the long run.

 

I can't lie, the thought of dropping a small block in it has crossed my mind, but it seems like a much more expensive endeavor than just replacing this engine with another 4.3 AND keep all the fuel injection stuff.  I've seen the "kits" for doing it, changing the wiring harnesses, changing the PCM, etc. but like I said it seems more expensive and like a great deal more work.

 

 

Find a U-pick yard and get a complete engine for dirt.

 

 

I always replace when it comes to water and oil mixing.  Seen too many bearings wiped. 

 

My whole issue with a pull apart engine is the warranty.  You NEVER know for sure what you're getting when you get one and I've seen quite a few people go through the trouble of pulling too many engines just to end up with one that is finally quiet, right up until the 30 day period expires and then they trash out too.  One friend in particular had two different full size Chevy's and did the pull apart engines with them about six times per truck.  The first one he wrecked before he got a good engine for it, in the second truck the last engine lasted four days past the 30 day replacement warranty before it spun three bearings and was toasted.  Some people have luck with them and are willing to gamble it but I'm a little too weary of them to go that route.

 

 

 

 

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

 

Liability only, don't see the point in fully insuring a 12yo vehicle.

 

Crap, you just found it. Since you don't have it, I'd do what the insurance company would and part it out. Water gremlins will chase it for years.

 

Sean is right on the money with water gremlins. I have seen cars brought up from down south that went through flooding and were sold as R title and the people have had nothing but issues even though the major issues were repaired.

 

 

 

If the water was in the road it is an insurance claim

 

Liability only, don't see the point in fully insuring a 12yo vehicle.

 

Crap, you just found it. Since you don't have it, I'd do what the insurance company would and part it out. Water gremlins will chase it for years.

 

 

I guess I should have pointed out that the truck didn't get COMPLETELY flooded.  I put a K&N cold air intake on the truck last year which points down and puts the air filter about the same height as the bumper.  Damn thing acted like a straw for the engine and sucked it right in.  I didn't even get any water standing in the floor boards.  I can't imagine that enough things would have gotten wet to cause any water gremlins from it no deeper than that was.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I think I'm just going to find a remaned crate motor.  I'll get a good warranty with it and won't need to worry about how long it will last in comparison to a junk yard motor.  Then I can pull the truly ruined engine from the '98 Blazer play toy as the core and work slowly on fully rebuilding this one from the bottom to the top to drop into the '98.  The more I think about it the more that seems like the most reasonable thing to do.

[///M5 2,833]

Even in minty condition that is a $3500 truck. If you could do something for a couple hundred bucks fine, but if not you are putting a lot of money into something that will surface other issues.<br /><br />I know it sounds to you just like a motor due to the K&N snorkel, but where there is one ghost there are 5. One oversight in this regard and you could have $2k into a new motor and still need to put another few grand into the rest. Not a situation I'd like to be in.<br /><br />If you part it out you should be ahead. Extra work, but this is exactly what insurance is for. Bummer <img data-cke-saved-src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/sad.png" src="http://www.soundsolutionsaudio.com/forum//public/style_emoticons/default/sad.png" class="bbc_emoticon" title=":(" />

[pmureika 31]

That engine issue sucks.

[audio-neon 34]

A master rebuild kit costs ~$460 with oil pump, from rockauto.com

 

Reman'd Long blocks are ~$1800.

 

Depending on how comfortable you are with a rebuild, it is easily cheaper to fix it yourself.  If you are just looking for easy, a long block will be your best bet.

 

I know we always rebuild engines rather than replacing them, but then again my father has been an automotive tech/teacher for the past 30 years.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

So how much for the cold air intake?

[altoncustomtech 773]

A master rebuild kit costs ~$460 with oil pump, from rockauto.com

 

Reman'd Long blocks are ~$1800.

 

Depending on how comfortable you are with a rebuild, it is easily cheaper to fix it yourself.  If you are just looking for easy, a long block will be your best bet.

 

I know we always rebuild engines rather than replacing them, but then again my father has been an automotive tech/teacher for the past 30 years.

 

If I didn't need it running ASAP I might consider it.  Plus as another person mentioned the cam/balancer bearings are probably going to have issues as well.  I am considering the engine a total loss for now and going to look at the best place to get a good, trustworthy long block.  I have the funds at the moment to get one, I figure it will be the best route.  Then I'll take the time to tear down and rebuild this one and drop it in the '98 Blazer I got for the purpose of rebuilding.

 

 

So how much for the cold air intake?

 

LOL.  If I wasn't hell bent for keeping this damn thing I probably would sell it.  As it is now, from here on out, CAI or not I'm steering far away from the deep waters.  Next time someone calls cuz they flooded their vehicle out I'm just going to politely say, Sorry I can't help you.

[///M5 2,833]

Sorry mang, that sucks.

That being said if you are keeping it, now is the time for power adders.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Sorry mang, that sucks.

That being said if you are keeping it, now is the time for power adders.

I've already got done almost everything there is for these without higher compression pistons, hotter cam, head/intake porting/polishing, etc. etc. It's got the CAI, a tuned PCM w/O2 delete, and modified exhaust. Only thing I have left to do to it as far as performance can be done without major engine internal work is replacing the clutched fan with electrics and putting a tuned exhaust on it, both of which are on the books to be done. Now, the thought HAS crossed my mind to drop the long block in it now, rebuild this engine WITH all the performance enhancements, then get the PCM reprogrammed for the mods and drop it BACK into the Jimmy and put the long block build into the Blazer. Now there's a nice option!

On another note, anyone ever done any engine business with THESE GUYS? They've got a very thoroughly laid out re-manufacturing process and a 7 year, 100,000 mile warranty.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Well, forget S&J, too many complaints and they're too far away to worry about dealing with any sort of warranty issue.

 

 

I've had the old tried and true Marshall name brand reman engines thrown at me by quite a few people.  I can get one for ~$1400 from a couple of sources so, any opinions before I throw the money at it?  I'll be ordering the engine before the end of the week as I'd like to get this thing back on the road in the next few weeks.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

JAsper is tough to beat.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Oh, believe me I know.  Hell I've been to the plant here in Jasper Indiana a few times.  But I called every Jasper engine dealer in the area and couldn't find one for under $2k and that's the limit I have to spend on getting the engine replaced/rebuilt.

[audio-neon 34]

Marshall can be bought off of Rockauto... I have used some of their stuff and have had no complaints so far.  I have never purchased an engine though (as previously mentioned, we rebuild rather than buy).

[altoncustomtech 773]

Yep, they have a pretty good price on it too, very hard to beat BUT the shipping charge doesn't include shipping for the core back to them which makes it about the same price as going to a couple of local stores and buying one from them w/o the shipping involved at all.