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So I have a SoundStorm (SSL) EV4000D. I've had it for about a year and a half, and never have had a problem with it, except that I have blown two Subs with it. The first one was a Pioneer TS-W3002D4 which lasted about 8 months and then the most current one which blew today was a Kicker CompRT12. So i need suggestions of what kind of sub i should get because obviously the last two were a fail. I want something that will thump my price range is up to $250. Hope I can get some feedback.

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The problem here is quite obviously your misuse of the products.  The problem isn't the amp blowing the subwoofers, the problem is you blowing the subwoofers.  Properly used subwoofers don't just blow.  You need to figure out what you are doing wrong and fix that before you replace the subwoofer, otherwise it will simply end up blown as well.  My initial guess would be improper amplifier settings in conjunction with not understanding when a driver is stressed.  But we need more details to figure out what exactly is going wrong.

 

Give us more details of your previous setups, including enclosures used and system setting (amplifier gain/bass boost, any headunit settings, subsonic filter settings if any, etc).  Otherwise it's pointless to look for a new sub, unless you just like throwing money at new subwoofers.  If you knew how the drivers failed (thermal or mechanical) that would be helpful as well.

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those speakers failed because of YOU.. not the amp.

 

some one could run a jensen 10 on a 7K and not blow it.

 

 

 you need to adjust your settings and figure out what your doing wrong.

Edited by bigjon

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The problem here is quite obviously your misuse of the products.  The problem isn't the amp blowing the subwoofers, the problem is you blowing the subwoofers.  Properly used subwoofers don't just blow.  You need to figure out what you are doing wrong and fix that before you replace the subwoofer, otherwise it will simply end up blown as well.  My initial guess would be improper amplifier settings in conjunction with not understanding when a driver is stressed.  But we need more details to figure out what exactly is going wrong.

 

Give us more details of your previous setups, including enclosures used and system setting (amplifier gain/bass boost, any headunit settings, subsonic filter settings if any, etc).  Otherwise it's pointless to look for a new sub, unless you just like throwing money at new subwoofers.  If you knew how the drivers failed (thermal or mechanical) that would be helpful as well.

Well first of all the box that I use is Sound Ordnance BB12-150v, The Input sensitivity is 100mV-2V, The Subsonic Filter is around 36Hz and the bass boost has been close to +13DB. The first sub that I had failed due to mechanical. The second one which failed today I don't know what failed on it. I did check all connections, fuses and wires. Hooked up a sub to my amp and made sure it was my sub but other than that, I do not know what went wrong on the Kicker. 

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The problem here is quite obviously your misuse of the products.  The problem isn't the amp blowing the subwoofers, the problem is you blowing the subwoofers.  Properly used subwoofers don't just blow.  You need to figure out what you are doing wrong and fix that before you replace the subwoofer, otherwise it will simply end up blown as well.  My initial guess would be improper amplifier settings in conjunction with not understanding when a driver is stressed.  But we need more details to figure out what exactly is going wrong.

 

Give us more details of your previous setups, including enclosures used and system setting (amplifier gain/bass boost, any headunit settings, subsonic filter settings if any, etc).  Otherwise it's pointless to look for a new sub, unless you just like throwing money at new subwoofers.  If you knew how the drivers failed (thermal or mechanical) that would be helpful as well.

Well first of all the box that I use is Sound Ordnance BB12-150v, The Input sensitivity is 100mV-2V, The Subsonic Filter is around 36Hz and the bass boost has been close to +13DB. The first sub that I had failed due to mechanical. The second one which failed today I don't know what failed on it. I did check all connections, fuses and wires. Hooked up a sub to my amp and made sure it was my sub but other than that, I do not know what went wrong on the Kicker. 

Where did you have the gain set in that range?

 

Bass boost should be at zero.  You had it set to +13 ?

 

Does your HU have any adjustements?  What HU do you have?

 

As Q said, you overpowered all of the drivers which is what lead to the failure.  The problem that lead to that situation was likely improper system settings.

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The problem here is quite obviously your misuse of the products.  The problem isn't the amp blowing the subwoofers, the problem is you blowing the subwoofers.  Properly used subwoofers don't just blow.  You need to figure out what you are doing wrong and fix that before you replace the subwoofer, otherwise it will simply end up blown as well.  My initial guess would be improper amplifier settings in conjunction with not understanding when a driver is stressed.  But we need more details to figure out what exactly is going wrong.

 

Give us more details of your previous setups, including enclosures used and system setting (amplifier gain/bass boost, any headunit settings, subsonic filter settings if any, etc).  Otherwise it's pointless to look for a new sub, unless you just like throwing money at new subwoofers.  If you knew how the drivers failed (thermal or mechanical) that would be helpful as well.

Well first of all the box that I use is Sound Ordnance BB12-150v, The Input sensitivity is 100mV-2V, The Subsonic Filter is around 36Hz and the bass boost has been close to +13DB. The first sub that I had failed due to mechanical. The second one which failed today I don't know what failed on it. I did check all connections, fuses and wires. Hooked up a sub to my amp and made sure it was my sub but other than that, I do not know what went wrong on the Kicker. 

Where did you have the gain set in that range?

 

Bass boost should be at zero.  You had it set to +13 ?

 

Does your HU have any adjustements?  What HU do you have?

 

As Q said, you overpowered all of the drivers which is what lead to the failure.  The problem that lead to that situation was likely improper system settings.

The input level was about 4/5 turned. I did not know bass boost should be at zero.

 

My HU is a JVC KD-S48, I do have adjustments on the head unit.

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Bass boost needs to be at 0.  That alone could quite easily be the source of your problems.  Long story short, the bass boost asks the amplifier to output more power, in your case more power than it actually can.  This causes clipping which significantly increases the amount of average power over time it's outputting and the subwoofer is receiving.  If that average power is more than the subwoofer can handle thermally or mechanically, then it blows.  As you've found out wink.png  There is a "proper" way to use bass boost, but I'm not going to explain it because there is absolutely zero need ever in car audio to use a bass boost.  Just simply leave it at zero.

 

I couldn't find anything quickly online that gave the preamp voltage of your HU.  It looks like a lower end model, so I'm guessing it's fairly low (not that this is inherently "bad", but it does affect gain position to a degree).  And given the small input sensitivity range with that setting (looks like it can also be adjusted for 2V - 8V, I'm assuming you had it in the 100mV - 2V range), it's possible that your gain was set correctly.  That said when you install a different sub, you need to reset your gain and verify it's set to a level that isn't over-driving the amplifier or the subwoofer.  This is one of the few times I'd suggest you read and follow the sticky in the amplifier section regarding how to set a gain with a DMM.  Normally I'd suggest setting by ear based on driver stress.....but given your history it doesn't appear you can readily identify driver stress smile.png

 

Without knowing the actual tuning frequency of your enclosure, it's hard to say for certain but just as a guesstimate I'd venture to say your subsonic filter (SSF) was set atleast to a safe level.  Many prefab boxes are tuned pretty high, normally close to or a little higher than 40hz.  So a 36hz SSF setting should be sufficient.  If the enclosure is tuned lower than 36hz then you could possibly lower the SSF a bit.  While we're on the topic, whatever sub you choose next, it would be wise to spend a little extra & have an enclosure custom built.  If you can construct it yourself we can help you design it.  But a prefab enclosure is going to restrict your ability to extract full performance out of your subwoofer.

 

Can't give you advice on headunit settings without knowing what those features are and the available settings.

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Thank you Impious for helping me out tonight. I will def. look into getting a custom box for my sub which i am currently still open for suggestions to!! and also will make sure that i keep the bass boast at zero...unless what if i was to get a more powerful sub that could handle the the raise of the bass boast (the RMS increase) from my sub.. ?

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Thank you Impious for helping me out tonight. I will def. look into getting a custom box for my sub which i am currently still open for suggestions to!! and also will make sure that i keep the bass boast at zero...unless what if i was to get a more powerful sub that could handle the the raise of the bass boast (the RMS increase) from my sub.. ?

 

DON'T use the bass boost, it's as simple as that.

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Ok let me find a work around. I want a sub that rattles my eardrums and makes my body vibrate while being able to hear me coming from a  block away

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must be truconcepts again.....

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Ok let me find a work around. I want a sub able to hear me coming from a block away

Yay, another one who has no regaurd for the law, hasn't been taught the moral about having respect for others around him. I give you two big thumbs up.

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