Help- Working on LS

[eagle27212 0]

I am trying reach the highest decibels I can with what I have, a 2006 V8 Lincoln LS. I have done the big3 and am ordering an  extra battery with isolator to replace my 2fd cap. I have 1-15" ssa icon D2 in 4^ft @32hz sub firing up and port into cabin, Hifonics gladiator 1000.1 @ 1ohm, hifonics zues 80.4, Sony GDX-GT660UP headunit. two pairs of cadence cw6kits comp in the rear, one pair of American bass 6.5 mids and a pair of silk tweeters in the front and on front sails.  The only issue i'm struggling with is the bass.  I know I can get more out of the sub but cant figure it out.  I want to rebuild the trunk and new enclosure but trying to determine best way to do that.  any help, advise or criticism is welcome and needed.

 

Ive thought about building a new enclosure with a larger port cross section, 52 in^2 instead of the 44 in^2 now, facing the sub to the rear and port to driver side. 

 

Cutting the rear deck increasing the open space and leaving just enough metal left for a lip around the frame or maybe cut an 8 shape leaving a small piece metal from front to back.  If doing this leave the sub firing up and maybe the port up as well.

 

I would love to seal off the trunk and fire sub and port in the cab but the height restriction is an issue, unless I build a box from the rear seats to the space that is tall enough for the sub enclosure, then after sealing it to the enclosure seal that off from trunk ???

 

The trunk of the LS is a pain.  Starting at the rear seat there is a wedge shape area then on both sides of the trunk there are humps about 3" in height. the first 6" from the rear seats has a height of 13.5" after that it gets better going  to 16.5. 

 

I drew a box that is 13.5" for 4" then 16.5" for 15.5" in height then depth.  the width would be 34" and I would built a slot port but build it separate from the main box and attach it over one of the humps on the side of the trunk.  the port would kinda be an external port.

 

I thought of using the space that has the 13.5" height as the area for the port while having the 16.5" be the main enclosure.  but don't know where to fire sub/port. the box would not let much around it from rear of trunk to the cabin.

 

Ive never had much trouble in the past cause my cars and truck were much easier to work with but this car is a challenge. 

I could spend money and time building all types of stuff but I figured its best to ask other with more experience first, thanks for any input.

[eagle27212 0]

[EPerez 236]

If the port is facing forward and not sealed off than it will probably be better to just have port and sub face rear.

[eagle27212 0]

I actually did turn the port to the rear, sub still up, after reviewing some forums.  there is a difference, but when I build the new box I want to seal it from the trunk.  I was thinking of building the box 16.5 high and pushing it up against the rods in the trunk, having the sub and port fire into cab.  the space between the cab and face of the box I want to build like a funnel into the cab.  I don't know if it will work or what material to use to hold the bass in the funnel.  I would try thin plywood backed with some type foam or deadener.  also an idea is to remove the rear deck and fire sub up but there is no way to seal anything I would just be firing into the cab thru the deck. ???  

[eagle27212 0]

My first design was to build the box rear facing with a false wall, port and sub fire to the trunk.  I had laid it out so I could customize the whole trunk.   But I dont know if I would have the best output.  How would the basss sound after loading off the trunk.  it would have to go thru the wall to get to the car.  Ive seen people with lS builds putting the box in the tire well or having them rear facing but I wonder what type of output they get. before I make my final decision I wanted advice from the experienced.   

[shizzzon 461]

first thing you need is an SPL Meter.

 

Without that, there is no way to gauge small increases in pressure and it's hard to tell the difference between amplitude increase vs frequency shifting to the ear.

[eagle27212 0]

ill have to go to the local shop and borrow theirs,  are the meters very expensive 

[shizzzon 461]

the cheapest ones that are identical to the "standard" are just a hair over $400.

 

I'd be surprised if a shop actually lets you walk off with their product and take it back to your house...

 

When testing SPL, you can measure between 5-50x a day depending on what you are doing.. 

And we compete all year around changing things.. 

[EPerez 236]

If your really serious into gettin the highest DBs then you should invest into an spl meter like Shizzzon is suggesting. He has a company that sells them. So look into his.

[eagle27212 0]

ill have to do that.  for the time being the installer at the shop is a friend so that's why id go there.  He'd let me use it but you're right I wouldn't want to wear out my welcome especially cause he only works there.

[eagle27212 0]

If this was your car how would you design the trunk, enclosure  using the 15".  I know this would be much easier with 12s or 10s but I have a 15. 

[eagle27212 0]

If I sold the fifteen and bought two 12s what 12s would yall recommend.  My amp is 1000.1 @ 1ohm.  budget is 300-350.  It may be easier to build and get the results I want with 12s. 

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Absolutely ZERO need for the meter unless competing.  The small gains measurable with a meter will never be heard, so there is no point unless you want bragging rights or something.  He's looking for a discrenable change via ear, so the meter is pointless.