Soon to upgrade, will electrical be strong enough?

[1two3 16]

Hey guys,

 

As mentioned I'm soon to be upgrading my system and Id like to get your opinions on if I'm on the right track here.

Ill start off by what I already have:

 

Car: 2000 Honda CR-V

Battery: XS D5100R

Big 3: Done with 1/0

Wiring: 2 Runs of 4 gauge to amps

Amps: Rockford Fosgate T1000bd and T400-2

Speakers: 2 Alpine type S's up front and 2 JBL GTO 628's in the rear

Sub: SSA Xcon D2 15 in a sealed enclosure.

 

As expected I have bad Voltage drop down into the 11's. I will be strengthening my electrical shorty.

 

Short term goals:

 

1. Add another Xcon and port the enclosure.  I am considering doing a wall and sealing off behind and around the rear seats.

2. Replace the 2 runs of 4 gauge with 1 run of 1/0 Gauge to an additional battery

3. Add said battery (XS3400 or XS3100?) in the wheel well to strengthen current electrical

 

Long term goals:

 

1. Switch to higher power handling speakers in the front and switch to components. Eliminate the rears.

2. Purchase another battery for the rear

3. Purchase a Rockford Fosgate T2500bdcp 

4. Replace stock alternator with a Singer 190A Alternator

 

 

Questions:

 

1.  What battery's to choose for the rears?

 

Iv'e noticed that its not recommended to get different battery sizes. Ultimately it is best to run all identical battery's.  But here's the thing.  I didn't want to risk not being able to fit the D3400 in the front so I stuck with the D5100R.  Now I know the D3100 is a better battery and can hold more charge than the D3400 but im worried that because its so different from the D5100R that it will cause me problems down the road.  Therefore I want to go with the D3400's but i'm not sure that they will be enough. This is the main thing I need help with.

 

2. How many runs of 1/0 Gauge?

 

Would one run from the front battery to the rears be enough?  I would wire the 3 in parallel.

 

3. How to run Grounds?

 

How many grounds to the frame?  This is what I think:

Both amps to battery negative in rear.

Battery negative to Frame

Battery negative to front battery.

 

Also not sure how this would work with 2 battery's in the rear. I would think everything connected to the one battery and the second one also. All power to 1 positive terminal and all grounds to 1 negative terminal.

 

Let me know what you guys think.

Edited May 1, 2013 by 1two3

[shizzzon 461]

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now.

 

For front to rear wiring-

 

Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power.

 

IE-  you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. 

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.  

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm  This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

 

Next, grounding to frame in the rear.

 

Literally do as many as you can.

 

I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame.

 

For front to rear GROUND-  I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator.

 

If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat..

 

Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced)

Alt to batt still should be big as possible.

Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

[1two3 16]

cables from front to rear for power..

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

First of all thanks for not forgetting about me

Second holy crap that is an awesome price but I can forsee a few issues:

I'm only gonna be running 1 190A alt. Plus where would I find a fuse holder that would fit that size wire + grommets to go through firewall and terminals for battery.

Seems like overkill but for that price its berry tempting...

[Shogen 325]

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now.

 

For front to rear wiring-

 

Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power.

 

IE-  you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. 

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.  

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm  This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

 

Next, grounding to frame in the rear.

 

Literally do as many as you can.

 

I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame.

 

For front to rear GROUND-  I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator.

 

If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat..

 

Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced)

Alt to batt still should be big as possible.

Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

 

 

Just a quick random question... why go for 4/0 when the 1/0 or 2/0 are rated for 600V all the same???? If it can carry the same current then why go bigger I guess is what I'm asking

 

 

EDIT:  I noticed they have different "AMP" ratings... but what does that really mean ?

Edited May 1, 2013 by Shogen

[DanP 19]

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now.

 

For front to rear wiring-

 

Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power.

 

IE-  you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. 

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.  

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm  This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

 

Next, grounding to frame in the rear.

 

Literally do as many as you can.

 

I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame.

 

For front to rear GROUND-  I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator.

 

If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat..

 

Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced)

Alt to batt still should be big as possible.

Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

Not to hijack the thread but say you drive a Unibody vehicle where would you ground?

[1two3 16]

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now

........

Not to hijack the thread but say you drive a Unibody vehicle where would you ground?

 

ur best bet would be the strut towers

[shizzzon 461]

cables from front to rear for power..

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

First of all thanks for not forgetting about me

Second holy crap that is an awesome price but I can forsee a few issues:

I'm only gonna be running 1 190A alt. Plus where would I find a fuse holder that would fit that size wire + grommets to go through firewall and terminals for battery.

Seems like overkill but for that price its berry tempting...

 

I use terminalized fuse holders.  No wire insert fuse holders.  Plus, you'd have to leave the protective casing off of them for the terminals to fit onto the posts.

Use this- http://www.thewireszone.com/p-5211-bullz-audio-banl1010p-02-gaugeawg-anl-fuse-holder.aspx

 

Just leave casing off.

 

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now.

 

For front to rear wiring-

 

Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power.

 

IE-  you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. 

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.  

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm  This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

 

Next, grounding to frame in the rear.

 

Literally do as many as you can.

 

I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame.

 

For front to rear GROUND-  I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator.

 

If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat..

 

Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced)

Alt to batt still should be big as possible.

Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

 

 

Just a quick random question... why go for 4/0 when the 1/0 or 2/0 are rated for 600V all the same???? If it can carry the same current then why go bigger I guess is what I'm asking

 

 

EDIT:  I noticed they have different "AMP" ratings... but what does that really mean ?

 

Knukonceptz cable is equal to 2/0 cable.

Cable i listed is equal to 4/0 obviously, lol.

 

The 4/0 will handle more current than 2/0 by a bit.

 

Even though Knu says up to 350, the actual standard for 2/0 is around 290A where 4/0 is 390A.

 

when used on shorter runs, yes, all cable can handle more current.

The goal here is to reduce voltage drop and a single run of larger cable can do this effectively.

 

Instead of me reading all that, this is what i do-

PS- i know you are still waiting for tones link, i haven't forgot about you.  I just have lots to do right now.

 

For front to rear wiring-

 

Whatever cabling the alternator needs, double up on it for power.

 

IE-  you have a 250A alt, i'd use 2 2/0 cables from front to rear for power.. 

However, because of price, i use 2 4/0 cables.  

http://www.wireandsupply.com/product_p/wc-4-fslash-0-01.htm  This is the cheapest on EARTH you will find flexible 4/0 cable.

 

Next, grounding to frame in the rear.

 

Literally do as many as you can.

 

I typically do 3-6 2/0 cable grounds to frame.

 

For front to rear GROUND-  I suggest 1 run of 4/0 cable(because of cheap price) PER alternator.

 

If you have batts in the rear, the Big 3 can be shrunk somewhat..

 

Ground cable for starting battery can be as small as 8awg(added on, not replaced)

Alt to batt still should be big as possible.

Alt ground should be as big as possible and run to frame somewhere close by that will then run to rear of vehicle.

Not to hijack the thread but say you drive a Unibody vehicle where would you ground?

 

For batts in the rear, i connect a ground cable either directly off alternator bolt post, or the next closest thing to the alternator to a point on the frame somewhere..  I then attach front to rear ground from that same point and run it to the back battery bank.

[1two3 16]

For batts in the rear, i connect a ground cable either directly off alternator bolt post, or the next closest thing to the alternator to a point on the frame somewhere..  I then attach front to rear ground from that same point and run it to the back battery bank.

 

what batteries do you recommend? quick recap...190A alt plus an xs D5100r in the front.

 

will be running a t2500bdcp

 

3400's? 3100's? how many?

[shizzzon 461]

I'd rather not say because my opinion isn't fact.. 

 

I run XS Power because i compete and need instantaneous power.

 

For just daily driving, literally any AGM battery will work for automotive\audio use.

 

The most recent good G31 batt is the Diehard Platinum.

[1two3 16]

I'd rather not say because my opinion isn't fact..

I run XS Power because i compete and need instantaneous power.

For just daily driving, literally any AGM battery will work for automotive\audio use.

The most recent good G31 batt is the Diehard Platinum.

Im already running an xs in the front. I don't care about mixing different batteries as long as it doesn't cause me any problems.... Would it?