I think I broke it....please advise

[SacredTanakh 67]

and that was the last post before he asked for help about his unloaded subs.

lol

 

 it will happen .

Yeah I need to stop beating so hard on em, but I guess if it happens I can't complain since it was my fault.

Anyways good luck to op on the xcons. 

[AXEHAMMER 16]

You don't set your SSF according to a rule of thumb, IE- few hz below tuning, because things like this happen.

 

In all of my competition installs for demoing and daily driving, All SSFs are set mechanically and many of them are set at or way higher than tuning.

 

since your amp is limited, try and talk yourself into going active in the future, hehe.

 

Or just find a reason to get a 2\3way BP crossover with subsonic filter on it.

 

The Harrison Labs one does not allow fine tuning which can easily allow this to happen again.

I was thinking of getting a good crossover/line driver with adjustable ssf.

What brand should I look at? I bought a maxxonics unit a while back but it induced engine noise so I took it out.

Are some brands better than others? If it helps me keep my stuff in working order money is not an object.

[AXEHAMMER 16]

no need to ordered it you can find it local, most auto parts stores, any lowes home depot true value  or mom and mom home repair shop,

Shit. Ill cancel my fleabay order and run to lowes in the morning. Thanks AGAIN jon

[jonbearsmt 919]

 the thing is that most time the SSf is set incorrectly becuse honestly  they are hard to telll where you are... its a big circle, one is in 15 hz the other end is what 60hz (depending on the amp) and where you set it is pretty much a guess...  you can only estimate where your setting the SSF, and thats where most failure lays IMO,

 

  my friend hugo (onebadmonte)  has some kinda sweetish danish tool i donno what the hell it is. but its able to to sell you exactly where the SSf is  while you adjust it, and also your roll off  points a sweet tool when dialing in an active set up... he hooked me up years ago.. but of course my sub amp has changed,  so i need it again !

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

All you need is a dmm and test tones to set it.

[shizzzon 461]

All you need is a dmm and test tones to set it.

 

Yep, that's how i set it mechanically..

 

Same reason why the CC-1 is pointless too.. just need a DMM to set x-over points.

[jonbearsmt 919]

yes i understand how, but alot of people dont, in fact i have seen the subsonic questions replied to countless times  with, a simple response of 2-3 hz below tuning, with never reading the long way of how to

 

 that was my point.

[pmureika 31]

With the amp he is using if you tun the ssf on it goes to 28hz no adjustment.

[jonbearsmt 919]

With the amp he is using if you tun the ssf on it goes to 28hz no adjustment.

im NOT talking about the OP.

 

 nevermind.

[pmureika 31]

With the amp he is using if you tun the ssf on it goes to 28hz no adjustment.

im NOT talking about the OP.

 

 nevermind.

Your talking on how to set it properly.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

That's only 4 hertz lower than tuning. It's not gonna hurt a thing. The sub will not completely unload right below tuning. There is a reason why the filter is sloped and doesn't cut off like a switch.

[pmureika 31]

It there a way to determine your exact box tuning ?

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Im surprised  something like this hasn't happened to me, I send 22-28 hz full tilt (with some clipping probably) through my dcons all the time... Dcons are just secretly beasts I guess haha. 

Shh, don't let everyone know.  

[AXEHAMMER 16]

All I know is the design was for 33hz and I built it as close as possible to spec without being a craftsman.  On the meter 32hz was my sweet spot, so being a noob I don't know if that means my box is tuned to 32 or if my car helps that be the sweet spot. I do know that  a 32hz tone barely moves my subs at full tilt.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

It doesn't matter. As long at the filter is working it is perfectly fine. If that amp is 1,500 watts and has a 28 hertz 12db/octave it would only be giving the sub 375 watts at 20 hertz. No where enough to bottom the sub free air.

The obvious next step would be to use a DMM and test tones to verify the filter is working.

[AXEHAMMER 16]

That's exactly what I was thinking Quentin, I wasn't sure, but I figured that far below 28hz it shouldn't have got that much power. I have twin amps, so that might explain why one sub bit the dust and the other didn't. Im telling you It sounded just like a jackhammer it was bottoming or whatever so hard.

[AXEHAMMER 16]

Without subs hooked up I would play say a 35hz tone and measure ac output then play say 25hz tone and measure output to see if it is working. correct?

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Yes get a base reading anywhere above 28 hertz.

If it is 12db/octave the voltage should be cut in half every 3.5 hertz below 28 hertz.

[AXEHAMMER 16]

ok, ill play a 24hz tone after I get a base reading so I should be a little less than half output. thanks bro!

[AXEHAMMER 16]

alright. voltage at 40hz-78.x

voltage at 20hz-21.x

 

so apparently they do work. that being said. the amp that was on blown sub was the one putting out 78v on 40hz. when I went to other side it was putting out 66v on 40hz.

So I guess that's why one is blown and the other is not. due to my "ear" gain setting, one was seeing over 10 less volts....they are matched now.

 

All this being said tho, I don't understand how one failed on 20 volts. the 9v battery test BARELY moved the sub...wtf?

Edited April 2, 2013 by AXEHAMMER

[A.SMALL 17]

Current!

 

Voltage is only part of the equation (Power = Voltage * Current) Most small 9v batteries put out current that's rated in milliamps I believe so it's not fair to compare a little 9v battery to a 1500 watt amp.

 

Just an estimate but....

 

  9v @  .005A = a staggering 0.045 watts  VS.   20v @ 40 amps = 800 watts

 

Big difference there...lol

[Polish 9]

alright. voltage at 40hz-78.x

voltage at 20hz-21.x

 

so apparently they do work. that being said. the amp that was on blown sub was the one putting out 78v on 40hz. when I went to other side it was putting out 66v on 40hz.

So I guess that's why one is blown and the other is not. due to my "ear" gain setting, one was seeing over 10 less volts....they are matched now.

 

All this being said tho, I don't understand how one failed on 20 volts. the 9v battery test BARELY moved the sub...wtf?

 

Well if there is a silver lining to this it's that they are matched now once you get the sub fixed up. I can't say for sure if you'll gain anything on the meter but I'd be surprised if you don't. So that's a good thing. 

[95Honda 486]

Current!

 

Voltage is only part of the equation (Power = Voltage * Current) Most small 9v batteries put out current that's rated in milliamps I believe so it's not fair to compare a little 9v battery to a 1500 watt amp.

 

Just an estimate but....

 

  9v @  .005A = a staggering 0.045 watts  VS.   20v @ 40 amps = 800 watts

 

Big difference there...lol

No. 

 

You need to understand the rest of ohms law.  When you factor in impedance (E^2/R) you realize that 9V battery isn't putting out as little as you think. 

[AXEHAMMER 16]

Thanks everyone. Im goin with seeing the silver lining and that my amps are matched AND i know to keep sub 28hz ANYTHING away from my ride!

[A.SMALL 17]

Current!

 

Voltage is only part of the equation (Power = Voltage * Current) Most small 9v batteries put out current that's rated in milliamps I believe so it's not fair to compare a little 9v battery to a 1500 watt amp.

 

Just an estimate but....

 

  9v @  .005A = a staggering 0.045 watts  VS.   20v @ 40 amps = 800 watts

 

Big difference there...lol

No. 

 

You need to understand the rest of ohms law.  When you factor in impedance (E^2/R) you realize that 9V battery isn't putting out as little as you think. 

 

Since my understanding isn't as good as yours what resistance would you use for that formula? Internal resistance of the battery? Wax on... Wax Off...Wax On...Wax.....

Edited April 2, 2013 by A.SMALL