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By Ryann627
I currently own a 2000 Chevrolet Cavalier that I am currently building a subwoofer install in.
My complete and current installs:
New Kenwood KDC-BT378U radio with built-in speaker amp, All new door and deck speakers. (COMPLETE)
Big 3 Kit, Mechman 270 AMP Alternator, (1) Sundown ZV6 12" 2-OHM 2500W Subwoofer (wired to 1 OHM), One run of 1/0 gauge wire complete with fuse and capacitor), Fiberglass Subwoofer Box(Not sure what size yet, any help on this would be greatly appreciated)
Just wondering if all the above installs with be able to comfortably power a 3000 watt amplifier to run the subwoofer properly? I know Sundown Subwoofers are underrated, just not sure if I want to over-power by more than 500W, seems safer to me like that, unless I'm wrong? Never dealt with this much power before, max was 600 watts before this build.
Any other install recommendations? Bigger battery because it is stock? Better springs for the added weight in the rear? Box will be fiberglass but the subwoofer alone weighs 95 pounds.
Thanks in advance guys.
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By musgrove
I'm nearing the finish line in an installation that includes a new HU with FT/RT, FR/LT RR/RT RR/LT, and a SUB output, plus an unmarked, unidentified in the manual, RCA output on the back of the HU next to the SUB output.
I have a 5 channel amp that has Channels 1(white), 2(red), 3(white) and 4(red) marked clearly on the amp, plus a SUB RT(white) and SUB LFT(red) input, all input by RCA.
The same amp has 4 sets of output terminals, 1 each for + & -. It also has 2 terminals for the sub (+ & -), which connects to the sub on R &L posts.
So, first question:
How do I run a cable from the HU, which is 1 RCA connection, to the AMP, which has both LT and RT RCA input connections?
Second question:
I also have the White, Grey, Green, Violet (+&-'s) hooked up from the HU to the wiring harness that goes to the speakers. The reason for this was that I have six speakers placements: 2 6.5" in the front doors, 2 6.5" in the rear doors. In the dash, I removed the tweeters that were in a plate and replaced them with Infinity Kappa20's midrange speakers that have bandpass crossovers that handle 550hz-7Mhz hooked up.
Just to confuse things more, The manual for the amp shows The channel 1 speaker attached to the channel 2 output terminals(+&-) and the channel 2 speaker (+&-) attached to the channel 1 terminals. Channels 3 and 4 are where I expect them, 3 & 4. And then again for the SUB it has + and - terminals to go to + & - posts on the SUB.
I've routed every plug in every location and checked each speaker, one by one by changing the fader/balance in different combinations to determine what's going on.
What I sense I'm doing wrong is that I'm wiring RCA cables with both RT/LT wires into the AMP to the HU when both only want a single signal cable each going into each jack. One single wire each that somehow is carrying both the Positive and Negative in it, versus a double speaker wire that goes into a positive/negative RCA male connector.
So that leaves the sub with one single output HU going to the AMP which has a R(white) and L(red) female connector. And then the 5th channel +&- going to the +&- on the SUB input.
The reason I have the HU output speaker wires (white,grey,green,violet) going to the speakers is because of the Dash Unit speakers. They're tapped into those 4 in the wiring harness where I can't get to them, but run from the HU from 4 wires to 6 different speakers). Again, the dash speakers are 2" Infinity midranges with bandpass crossovers connected to each which came with them. I just noticed they are 2.5 ohm, and everything else is 4 ohm, which is worrisome.
Is there a wiring genius out there that can understand what's going on and tell what I have wrong? There's also a whine coming from the front right dash speaker and possibly the right(passenger side) door speakers. I have the power cable far from the speaker wires on either sides of the vehicle. But I'm sure it has with the larger wiring issue at hand.
Any and all help is greatly appreciated. This is a crazy puzzle. Here's a diagram I made to make it more visual:
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By 121gigawatts
I just bought a zv5 15 thinking it was dual 2 ohm and it’s dual 1 ohm. I have a few questions. First, can it be recone to dual 2? Because I read some motors are only configured to function on the original impedance. Idk. And if I can’t get it recone, can I run that amp at .5 ohm unclipped on that zv5 and not overpower it? Should I run it at 2 ohms? I hope it can be reconed to dual 2. In need of help. Thank u.
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By Nick88gm
Hey guys, I'm new here but been messing around with audio in my cars on an amateur level for quite a while. I recently decided to do an amp/sub install on my newly acquired 2006 Infiniti M45. It has a factory 14 speaker BOSE system. As far as the audio upgrades I've added is as follows.
-Sundown Audio SCV3000d amp
-1 Sundown Audio X12 @ 1ohm in ported box to spec
-0 gauge wiring ran to trunk to additional audio battery and capacitor
-6 gauge wiring from amp to sub
-LOC taped into the stock Bose sub inputs
Problem is that the sub doesn't sound nearly as loud as it should although the sound it does produce is very clear. I went from 2 SA12's in my last car with a 1500 watt amp and was impressed so I decided to upgrade power and sub to the X12. I also noticed that the amp is clipping anytime I turn the bass boost over 1/3 on the remote dial which also has the clipping LED indicator. The gain on the amp is maybe in the 10 o'clock position and I'm really just wondering if it's maybe the signal from the Bose amp that is causing this and/or if there is a better location to tap into for the bass signal.
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