Jump to content
Ryon Johnson

Need help!, rear deck mounted blow thru for 2 12" BL's

Recommended Posts

I got a 93 740il, i want to mount the subs on the rear deck and do a blow threw... dimensions of the trunk are - width 3', height 1.5', and there is a difference of 6.5" from top depth to bottom depth being the top is less, the port thru the rear seat can be a max height of 1.5' and is set at 1.1' without cutting any leather seat and width of 10", i have allot of room to play with the depth in the trunk well over 3' in the least deep spot, i tried using re's box calculator but it didn't help that much. thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What exactly is your question?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

o shit sorry, for got to ask.... is there a good program out there to help me with this?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Help you with what? 

 

Designing the enclosure?  Calculating how much space you have available? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Design the enclosure, and do u recommend mounting them like that, or is it gonna cause problem with my rear windshield, i was also thinking about getting a N315 or 18 instead of the 2 bl's and doing somthing like a w7 high output box still going thru the rear seat, what would hit harder the 2 bls or some type of set up with the n3? thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You shouldn't try to fire your subs forward unless your seats fold down. There are many steps to take, but you are not providing enough information for us to help you much. The rear window will be fine. I have a forward fired trunk wall in my SRT-4.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

what info do you need? and why not mount forward, i could mount the single 12' N3 inside that rear arm rest with the port below or on top or both? but heres what i have to install so far a set of Hertz hi-energy HSK 165 XL, a set of JBL P660C, Kappa four, 2 Kinetik HC1800, 240 amp alt, Crescendo BC3500D, Alpine DVA-9860, 2 gauge for the kappa, 0 gauge for everything else and 4 gauge for the sub wire lol because thats all they had left and gave it to me for the price for 8 gauge (over kill?)... in the future im putting the kappa four in my girls car with the jbl's and getting a rockford 4 channel and another set of hertz because after hearing them i fell in love, my friend keeps telling me to scrap having any components in the rear and mount both sets of components in the front, how would that sound having to different sets side by side?...  I don't not have enough room on the rear deck to mount anything bigger than a 12" or a pair and do not want to have the sub in the trunk, i also do not want to lose the rear seat, so my question is what would be the best application for my car for a daily driver set up to listen to hip hop on with either 1 12" N3 or 2 12" BL's and witch would hit harder running off the BC3500D, i know the BL's will have more surface area to move air but can i pushing them as hard or harder than the N3, and also is my 240 amp alt good enough or should sell it and try to hook 2 200 amp alts up witch seems like it would be a nightmare because there is next to no space under that hood

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

one more thing... in the 740 the batt is located under the rear seat with stock low quality 0 gauge running to it after i install the high out put alt, do i need to replace the wire with high quality 0 gauge or run to wires from the alt because it is traveling so far, thanks.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.

    1. Recent Topics

        • 1 comment
        • 46 views
        • 1 comment
        • 36 views
        • 1 comment
        • 42 views
      1. Box for 1 15" SSA ICON

        • 3 comments
        • 892 views
        • 8 comments
        • 1,815 views
        • 1 comment
        • 79 views
  • Similar Content

    • By codester
      Been awhile since Ive been on here but I Just purchased back my 2x 15" SSA Icon subs I first purchased around 11 years ago.
      I have/ had them in a 7.2 cubic foot box net tuned to 32 and it sounded great on the bass music and rap/ hip hop I used to listen to but not amazingly accurate/ punchy on rock, etc.
      Im looking to only use one of them in my 2010 Ram 1500.
      I currently have a 10" JL W7 in a sealed box in the truck and it sounds great and I love it but doesn't quite have the output Id like and planning to put 1 of the Icons in the truck.
      Im considering either Ported or sealed. I now listen to mainly bands like chainsmokers, club music, alt rock, heavy rock, and a bit of edm, etc. Looking for it to be very accurate on kick drums but also hit hard so you feel it in your chest.
      According to SSA optimal ported is around 3.5-4 net tuned to around 32hz but Im thinking about tuning a bit higher. Ive done some winisd modelling but its been a long time and just wanting to hear thoughts on these designs.
      My max dimensions are 20" wide, 24" deep by 22" high.
      This is one design i'm considering, is 2.25" wide too thin for port width? im worried about port velocity and noise
      \
      Or if I go sealed this is what im thinking.

       
      Thanks again for any help
       
    • By CandyGang916
      First post here at SSA. Looking for some help, I need to build an enclosure for my new sub and am looking for some help on a design. I can give up 34.5w X 20d X 15.5 OD max. I'm looking to get tuned to 32hz @ 2.5 cubes. I am going to be starting this build in the morning any help is greatly appreciated. I can't wait to hear this thing come to life. Just looking to get some help so I can visualize what I'm building. I will mess around with some numbers on Torres and try to post them up. 
      It will be going in a Toyota Corolla and running off a crescendo s1500.1 so 1500w. Mostly hip hop music is what I listen to. 
      Also, I work out of my car and have to use my trunk so I have to have my sub facing forward (into the car) to prevent the sub getting damaged. My current port is side firing but I would like to have this one facing forward. I'm open to any recommendations. 

       
       
    • By BigManAC
      Hey guys. I found a BL 15 for $230 and couldnt pass it up. Anyway I have a BL 15 with the cooling and daily option. The new one has the flatwind and SPL option. Would putting both of these in the same box cause problems? Would playing music through the SPL option sub be an issue?
    • By rmksledhead
      Figured I should start a build log since I've gone through so much trial and error in getting this stereo to sound good.
       
      I'm already done with most things but I did take pictures along the way so i'll get that all uploaded when i get photobucket or imgur figured out.
       
      I bought my passat almost a year ago, the weekend after black Friday to be exact, and knew immediately that it needed some love in the bass department.
       
      I had a rockford p-300-12 powered enclosure lying around that i once had mounted in a big self-propelled sprayer that i basically lived in for 3 summers, threw that in along with a rockford loc, rockford rca's, and some ebay 4ga cca to get it powered.
       
      That sounded awesome for the average non-basshead and would suffice until i found a real solution....
       
      Did some searching and found this great place! After searching and reading here for hours I decided on a Fi BL 12 for a sub and a BRZ1200.1 hifonics amp to power it since i'm a poor college student and can't afford a bc, aq or saz lol
       
      I built a vented box for the BL that was 2.68ft^3 tuned to 28.5hz


       
      After I finished the box I had to stuff foam above the headliner near the upper brake light and under the rear deck to stop some rattling. Installed some dampener (dynamat and ebay stuff) to the trunk lid, under the trunk carpet on the floor, and rear deck from inside the trunk. dampener helped a ton.
       
      After the substage I realized that the stock front stage was not going to cut it... I knew that I wanted to fill some of the lacking upper bass frequencies with some volume so I was looking for the biggest components I could get for a decent price. Ended up getting the xr1800p components from Kenwood. They've got a big 7" woofer and an oversized 1 3/16" tweeter with external crossovers. currently the set is being powered by a dusty old pioneer 4-channel amp GM-x524. I'm not perfectly satisfied with the front stage for now since the amp likes to protect at high volumes and I've got some fuzzy distortion from the tweeters in certain frequencies. once i change the amp to the GM-d8604 class d 4-channel from pioneer I think it will get much better as I have the older GM-d9500f version in my s10 that never protects and has no distortion until extreme volume.
       
      also ran another 4ga run of cca to the trunk and a distribution block when I added the second amp.
       
      Also changed out the stock HU for a Pioneer Avh2600bt touchscreen unit which is fantastic for the money.
       
      I decided that the box was tuned too low so I chopped 10.5" off the port giving me a 2.88ft^3 net volume tuned to 32.2hz and was much happier!
       
      Now for the real reason I'm starting this build log.. I'm going to try a 6th order bandpass to keep this 'new to me' low end rumble and get back the awesome upper frequency volume from my mtx square sub in my s10 for when i want to blast the 50hz Flux Pavilion bass cannon!
       
      Much more to follow, including pics for the above^ stuff!
  • Recent YouTube Posts

×