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ShagggDiesel

Crossover needed?

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I'm planning to build a budget setup to listen to music while I'm at work. I operate a CNC router in a wood mill which is extremely noisy, and requires ear plugs to operate all day. I need something loud enough to hear from ~5ft away under these conditions. Obviously fidelity is out of the question, so high dollar equipment isn't necessary. Just need to hear my music. I plan on using my Lepai 2020+ amplifier powering 2 Pyle 6" midrange speakers and a pair of Pyle PSN1165 tweeters. My question: If i wire a mid and tweeter to each channel, will I need a crossover of some sort, or for this setup will a plug and play be fine? The only controls this amp has is volume, and a sub-par bass/treble control. Will sending full range signal to these speakers damage anything? This amp will only be putting out around 10-14 watts, but I am unsure as to what that amounts to here. Any input or advice is greatly appreciated.

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I did a build with that Lepai and some Tang Band 3". (http://www.homeaudioforum.net/topic/524-tang-band-3-full-range-boom-box-build/)

I also have a set of huge cabinets with some 10" woofers and a tweeter thrown in that I use for a party set up. No crossovers; only a resistor on the tweeter (from the review on those Horns it looks like you'll want one too). Powered by a old Panasonic stereo receiver. I've cranked that plenty loud enough and haven't destroyed the tweeters yet. It sounds pretty bad for even me though. 

 

With how little power they'll be seeing, and with my own experience, I think you'll be fine. 

I would use a full range though if you can fit it in the budget.

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With a resistor, what exactly is it doing? I've looked at these, and I am unsure what to get. I see lots of different resistance options and whatnot. Could you explain what they do compared to a crossover and what I would need exactly?

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A resistor wired in series with the tweeter is just resisting the current the tweeter sees, thus making it quieter. They are not filtering out any frequencies, but making everything the tweeter produces quieter. The larger the value of the resistor, the quieter it will be. The resistors should be cheap enough to where you can try out a few values to see what you like. The only thing to watch out for is to make sure the power rating on the resistor won't be exceeded. Other than that, what resistor you pick has nothing to do with any T/S specifications on the tweeter. 

 

And I'm barely ahead of you with this whole crossover/resistor/anything other than a subwoofer game. So...take everything I say with a grain of salt. But I do know circuits and I know what a resistor in series does and I've also experienced this first hand. 

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And obviously a crossover network would be better. But it might break your budget/patience and probably not necessary for your application

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Thanks a lot for the info. One final question: Given my scenario, which is trying to hear my music over the noise in my work area, why would I need to make my tweeters more quiet? I could understand trying to get them to blend with the midrange better, but as I mentioned, fidelity isn't really a major concern. I suppose I could try these without any sort of resistance and see how I like it and try out different resistors later on.

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I was thinking the same thing to be honest. But in my opinion, having the tweeter be so much louder than the mid range is more of an annoyance/headache than music. All the resistors you will need are less than 1$ a piece. I would buy a few, build the box, and do some listening. If you don't need the resistors and it's fine to you all you wasted was a couple bucks and you can keep them for a later project. Better than not ordering them and waiting a few days to get them when you've already done all the work and waiting for the payoff!

 

For almost the same budget you can a get a pair of the 4" full range dayton audio speakers. Something to think about. 

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Yeah that's probably not a bad idea either

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I just don't enjoy having something like that on my head all day.. I can barely stand ear plugs or I would just get some noise isolating ear buds.

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Yes you need a crossover.  This does not mean you should follow some generic advice towards building a random first order network either especially when the advice given in that regard doesn't match reality.

 

A full ranger is a better idea; however, it still needs a crossover.  The crossovers on my office speakers which are full rangers cost way more than the drivers themselves.  Of course you "could" run them without and considering your noise level that is even more of a possibility but still not what I'd do.  If you go the full range route and aren't going to use a crossover beware of low frequencies and cones with breakup modes.  Your current driver choice I'd avoid.

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Go with a set of pro audio speakers, a cheap amp and call it a day. It will be loud, clean and less hassle. You can get Peavey, Behringers, and a few other brands from parts-express cheap. You should definitely be able to hear it.

If price is not an option and you want cheaper , a good 2 channel receiver with a pair of bookshelfs will work also.

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Yay another terrible recommendation.

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Try it without the filters and see how it sounds.  Personally, given the horrid conditions you'll be in, I'd just go to a pawn shop or something and spend $25-50 on a cheap bookshelf system.  Easiest way to do it.    I wouldn't waste my time building something unless I was going to get some pleasure out of it.  You're just trying to overcome noise with more noise.

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I love how people correlate "pro audio" drivers to loudness. 

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I enjoy building these kind of things. Makes the work day a little more enjoyable being able to see and hear something I've put together. Just something pleasing to me. As far as a full range driver, will that be loud enough to overcome the noise generated by these routers without some sort of horn or supertweeter? Imagine the sound of a table saw cutting MDF, amplified many times in a large building being produced by 3 routers simultaneously alongside a vacuum system that is just about as noisy as the machinery. That, and the fact that this Lepai is only producing 10-15 watts maximum. I had a pair of coaxials in small enclosures I built running off of this amp for another position I was in at work where the noise wasn't such an issue, and it got pretty loud. I'd like to stay under $30 for both speakers if I go the full ranger route. Any input or suggestions here? 

P.S. The whole setup has to have a relatively small footprint as well, so 8 inch or smaller drivers.  

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Moot point. No proaudio worth a damn anywhere near that price and either way it isn't the cure. In that budget just go buy some used speakers

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