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I've never really tried my hand at making a great sounding front stage, I usually buy a set of components and throw an amp at them. This time around I would really like to understand what makes up a great front stage and why. what about cone size, do you start with choosing a tweeter and then work your way down to the mid woofer? Help me better understand the things I don't know.

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Driver placement will be very important, as well as treating the doors for the mids. (assuming that they are going in the door)

 

Are you considering an active setup? 

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Active 3-ways off axis

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Let me tell you i'm completely new and amateurish to active front stage but i'm running 2way active now with generic x-over points before i have time to RTA them and see what needs to be addressed but for first time,2way is PLENTY for active response.

 

I would hate to imagine what 3way would add to a headache of a mess to processing it would take.

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If this is your first time going active starting with a two way is HIGHLY recommended.  Some of the information and questions you're asking can be answered in Mike Martel's thread about a new front stage.  I've not had the fun of tackling an active front stage yet, but I understand that you're supposed to pick the mid first, then pick the tweeter based on the mid's higher frequency limitations and other such things.

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I'm looking at doing something that will sound good at lower volumes and still keep up with a payout of 18's on roughly 5k or so. I have been piecing together a whole Morel setup from parts express, but I know I would pick the wrong shit so I figured I would try to get a little insight first.

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Let me tell you i'm completely new and amateurish to active front stage but i'm running 2way active now with generic x-over points before i have time to RTA them and see what needs to be addressed but for first time,2way is PLENTY for active response.

 

I would hate to imagine what 3way would add to a headache of a mess to processing it would take.

Same here, and I agree.

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Well I have already screwed up and tried a 3 way setup and already have holes cut in the door panels of the Hummer so this time around I want to do it right.

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Well I have already screwed up and tried a 3 way setup and already have holes cut in the door panels 

 

Lol same here.....now I am just looking for a cheap mid to fill the hole and not be used.

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i went with a two way active my first time... it was better then any comp set i ever used.... but then when i got the gold lincoln i tried it again and went with a much diffrent tweeter.. and WOW. it sounds great IMO... i have a gap but  you cant tell  for the most part.. only those who are SQ heads can hear it...

 

 my car sounds great.. low volume and loud its great i love it...

 

two was is a bit of a pain in the ass to get dialed in for me.. i dont have alot of time for that shit.. i could never imagen doing a three way

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Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

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Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

Why would you use a 5.25 in a 3 way? I would rather have an active 2 way than most passive 3 ways.

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Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

Why would you use a 5.25 in a 3 way? I would rather have an active 2 way than most passive 3 ways.

I'm sorry, that's what I meant. An active 2 way with dual 5.25's

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Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

 

Maybe I could just do a pair of 5.25 mids in each door to combat "beaming" from using larger mids? Or do you think that a good passive 3 way would be better?

Why would you use a 5.25 in a 3 way? I would rather have an active 2 way than most passive 3 ways.

I'm sorry, that's what I meant. An active 2 way with dual 5.25's

6.5's will provide more mid bass, and if you cross them over properly you'll be fine.

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Just a disclaimer: I AM new to properly setting up an active setup so I am by no means an expert on this topic.

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Impious was talking to me about "beaming" before and what I took from it was that with smaller drivers you could mate them to a tweeter a lot easier, but you won't have as much output so you need more of them

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but you know who isss.......

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but you know who isss.......

.......ninja.gif

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Hmmmmm, where is he?

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Impious was talking to me about "beaming" before and what I took from it was that with smaller drivers you could mate them to a tweeter a lot easier, but you won't have as much output so you need more of them

 

A 6.5 crossed low enough should be fine.

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it has to do with how high the mid has to be crossed and the cone area that cause beaming. So that's why I was thinking about going with smaller drivers to combat that.

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it has to do with how high the mid has to be crossed and the cone area that cause beaming. So that's why I was thinking about going with smaller drivers to combat that.

That is what I mean. If you low pass a 6.5 low enough you can use it without worrying about beaming. 

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A good front stage is a just as much a result of proper installation and tuning as it is the speaker selection.  Everyone has specific goals, and those goals will determine most of how to go about selecting speakers and installing/tuning the system.  It's a really big topic, so specific questions will be easier to answer as literally an entire book could be written on how to select, install and tune a good front stage.

 

As others have said if this is your first foray into active a 2-way is recommended.  What are you using for processing?

 

Personally I prefer to choose a mid first, then decide on a tweeter to mate with it.  Due to people's usual preferences and the compromises involved I personally feel it's better to find a mid that matches your goals (midbass performance, low frequency extension, midrange performance, etc) and then find a tweeter that plays low enough to mate with the mid rather than limit your mid choices based on the tweeter. 

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I was thinking about doing 2 of these in each door http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=297-122 then putting 1 of these in each A-pillar since I already have holes up there for them. http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?partnumber=277-084 I would be using a Pioneer 880prs and more than likely an rf 360.3 everything will be off-axis

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Double post

Edited by ChILL

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