problems with new fi ssd subs!!!!

[tbear55 1]

I ordered two dual two fi ssd subs. I built my whole system around the subs. I built the box to spec, upgraded all my electrical, ordered a sundown 2500 for them. It's took awhile to get it all built and I'm still waiting on the amp. Adw the problem I have is when I boxed the subs I noticed that they had no movement. I just thought they were reply stiff. Got everything installed just waiting on amp, but wanted to see how they sounded. I hooked them up in series and put them on a 1000d just to here them. Their was no movement and just produced little sound. Within just a few seconds in there started to be a burning smell. Needless to say I unhooked immediately and removed subs from box. I've tried to reach the fi warranty number but get no answer and mailbox is full. What do I do? I've got $600 invested in junk and can't get help. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought tje subs because I was impressed with them when I seen them at a comp. The got said they were great to deal with..I just need to know what to do. Any help is appreciative.

[mlcantin 32]

I ordered two dual two fi ssd subs. I built my whole system around the subs. I built the box to spec, upgraded all my electrical, ordered a sundown 2500 for them. It's took awhile to get it all built and I'm still waiting on the amp. Adw the problem I have is when I boxed the subs I noticed that they had no movement. I just thought they were reply stiff. Got everything installed just waiting on amp, but wanted to see how they sounded. I hooked them up in series and put them on a 1000d just to here them. Their was no movement and just produced little sound. Within just a few seconds in there started to be a burning smell. Needless to say I unhooked immediately and removed subs from box. I've tried to reach the fi warranty number but get no answer and mailbox is full. What do I do? I've got $600 invested in junk and can't get help. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought tje subs because I was impressed with them when I seen them at a comp. The got said they were great to deal with..I just need to know what to do. Any help is appreciative.

What ohm are the subs and how do you have them wired?

[pmureika 31]

Could you post some good pics of the install?

[mlcantin 32]

Sorry I am exhausted you u mentioned both if those things haha. Did you take a multimeter to the speaker terminals on the amp to check ohm load?

[mlcantin 32]

Pics would benefit all of us and diagnosing your problem may be easier if we can see what you are working with here

[pmureika 31]

Sorry I am exhausted you u mentioned both if those things haha. Did you take a multimeter to the speaker terminals on the amp to check ohm load?

He is saying the subs wouldnt move without a amp being hooked up.

[mlcantin 32]

Sorry I am exhausted you u mentioned both if those things haha. Did you take a multimeter to the speaker terminals on the amp to check ohm load?

He is saying the subs wouldnt move without a amp being hooked up.

Wait what lol. I just took a test and my head hurts. Aren't subs not supposed to move if you don't have an amp hooked up?

[95Honda 486]

You wired the coils out of phase and overheated the voice coils.  Warranty won't cover this, sorry man...

 

This is the only way you can pour enough power into a driver to overheat the voice coils without causing any cone movement.   

 

The only other possible thing that could have happened was your amplifier was faulty and was in some kind of uncontrolled high frequency oscillation.  Warranty won't cover this, either...

[mlcantin 32]

You wired the coils out of phase and overheated the voice coils.  Warranty won't cover this, sorry man...

 

This is the only way you can pour enough power into a driver to overheat the voice coils without causing any cone movement.   

 

The only other possible thing that could have happened was your amplifier was faulty and was in some kind of uncontrolled high frequency oscillation.  Warranty won't cover this, either...

uh yea that haha

[95Honda 486]

You need to see about sending them in for a re-cone if they are cooked.  If they are still OK, you may be fine...

 

After that, have someone experienced double check you work before you fire it up again...

[mlcantin 32]

You need to see about sending them in for a re-cone if they are cooked.  If they are still OK, you may be fine...

 

After that, have someone experienced double check you work before you fire it up again...

Recones are not that expensive over at fi if I remember correctly. Cheaper than buying a whole new subwoofer anyways

[tbear55 1]

Sorry can't take pics j already have them boxed back up. I had them.hooked in series and it read 1.36 at the amp. I'm really bummed because of the time I've put into this, the money, etc. I just want to get them fixed and be able to compete. My amp supposed to be in this week and I have no subs to put them on! It's costing me points because I won't be able to go to any shows until fixed.

[mlcantin 32]

The should cost you around $90 a piece so a total if $180 for both.

[mlcantin 32]

The price of the rec one also depends on all the options you put on the refine but here is the link:http://store.ficaraudio.com/ssd-recone/

[pmureika 31]

I ordered two dual two fi ssd subs. I built my whole system around the subs. I built the box to spec, upgraded all my electrical, ordered a sundown 2500 for them. It's took awhile to get it all built and I'm still waiting on the amp. Adw the problem I have is when I boxed the subs I noticed that they had no movement. I just thought they were reply stiff. Got everything installed just waiting on amp, but wanted to see how they sounded. I hooked them up in series and put them on a 1000d just to here them. Their was no movement and just produced little sound. Within just a few seconds in there started to be a burning smell. Needless to say I unhooked immediately and removed subs from box. I've tried to reach the fi warranty number but get no answer and mailbox is full. What do I do? I've got $600 invested in junk and can't get help. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought tje subs because I was impressed with them when I seen them at a comp. The got said they were great to deal with..I just need to know what to do. Any help is appreciative.

Is that what you are saying is you couldnt push them up and down?

[tbear55 1]

Look I've been doing this for 20 years I believe I know how to hook up subs. I hooked each sub in series then put them together at the amp to deliver a metered 1.36 load. What I ment by the subs not moving was that when they where unmoved you could push on them and get no movement. If its not covered by warranty then this is a terrible company that doesn't stand behind their product. I know this will Piss quite a few off but this is how I feel. I connected them correctly and they just flat out didn't work. I just wanted to know if anyone else has haD this problem.

[pmureika 31]

Look I've been doing this for 20 years I believe I know how to hook up subs. I hooked each sub in series then put them together at the amp to deliver a metered 1.36 load. What I ment by the subs not moving was that when they where unmoved you could push on them and get no movement. If its not covered by warranty then this is a terrible company that doesn't stand behind their product. I know this will Piss quite a few off but this is how I feel. I connected them correctly and they just flat out didn't work. I just wanted to know if anyone else has haD this problem.

Post this in the Fi sub section you might get a faster answer.

[pmureika 31]

I ordered two dual two fi ssd subs. I built my whole system around the subs. I built the box to spec, upgraded all my electrical, ordered a sundown 2500 for them. It's took awhile to get it all built and I'm still waiting on the amp. Adw the problem I have is when I boxed the subs I noticed that they had no movement. I just thought they were reply stiff. Got everything installed just waiting on amp, but wanted to see how they sounded. I hooked them up in series and put them on a 1000d just to here them. Their was no movement and just produced little sound. Within just a few seconds in there started to be a burning smell. Needless to say I unhooked immediately and removed subs from box. I've tried to reach the fi warranty number but get no answer and mailbox is full. What do I do? I've got $600 invested in junk and can't get help. Has anyone else had this problem? I bought tje subs because I was impressed with them when I seen them at a comp. The got said they were great to deal with..I just need to know what to do. Any help is appreciative.

Do you see the Fi sub section?

[altoncustomtech 773]

Carefully inspect the motors.  It's entirely possible that they got abused during shipping and the motors shifted and locked the coils.  It's rare, but it has happened before.  It would account for the cone's inability to move right out of the box.

[tbear55 1]

That makes sense. I didn't think of that thanks. I was the guinea pig for this brand with our club. I wanted something different that was really good. I will post in the fi section. I've been sponsored by mtx and spundstream, so like I said I know what I'm doing. I just have had some medical probs that have kept me from competition. Just wanted to be competitive. Thanks for your guys comments.

[jonbearsmt 919]

You wired the coils out of phase and overheated the voice coils.  Warranty won't cover this, sorry man...

 

This is the only way you can pour enough power into a driver to overheat the voice coils without causing any cone movement.   

 

The only other possible thing that could have happened was your amplifier was faulty and was in some kind of uncontrolled high frequency oscillation.  Warranty won't cover this, either...

 

 this would be my first thought.. infact i had a friend of mine bring his stereo to me.. ( he has been installing for a number of years) and his new sundown SA 12 that he bought from me was not working correctly.. so i played with his setting and played the sub,., and  the dust cap got HOTTT HOTT!!  then smoke started rolling out.. and i almost shit my pants thinking i just cooked this new sub and its not even mine,.

 

 i let it cool off.. removed the sub from the box...  and he had it connected + to the - of the  other coil and - of one coil to the + of the other.... he wired a direct short. and that will cook a woofer. no doubt..

 

 he got very lucky and the sub still plays amazingly to me...  but i have seen this a few times... and when i explained it to him.. he thought it was doing it correctly.

 

 

 

 the other thing i can say it take pics,. of the sub.. maybe the motor shifted durring shipping.  locking the coil

 good luck.

[Sencheezy 689]

Hey guys, need some help.live been competing for years so I have some knowledge, but I'm not up to date on the power I need to supply the amp I'm wanting to go with. I have a 220 amp alt. And hc 2400 kinetik. I'm.going to b running two fi bl 12's dual 2 on a sundown 3500d. Daily will b run at 1 ohm and compete at .5 ohm. Do I have enough power to push the amp to full potential? All help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

I just had a mtx 9512-44 go out on me. Pretty sure it's the voice coils. I've had it for nine years (and its taken many trophies) do u guys know if mtx will repair it? Already ordered fi bl's to take its place, but would still like to have this sub. Sentimental value I guess.

 

 

Can anyone give me info on the 12" bl's dual twos? What kind of max cottage for a burp at half ohm, break in time, etc. Plz help!!!!

 

 

How long do you guys recommend breaking in the ssd's b4 going to competition with them and putting a lot of power on them?

 

 

electrical system consists of 220 amp alt., 2 hc 2400 kinetik, and the big three completed. I have a 2000 blazer, box is built to vehicles peak tuning frequency. What would be the best amp to use for competition in the street 3 class for meca. Price of amp is not to much of an issue, just looking for something to get the most from the subs. All help would be appreciative.

 

 

I am wondering if the bc2000 will allow the use of 175 amp fuse. I will be burning it at a half ohm. So all u guys that have had experience with this amp I would appreciate ur thoughts.

 

 

It was brought up in another topic I have, but they said they could get an 80 amp fuse to hold on a 3500 watt burp. I plan on competing in meca and knowing how this is done would be vital info to me. Let me know how its done.

 

 

Are the MIDI fuses better than the bigger anl fuses?

 

 

Wow, to have been sponsered by MTX and Soundstream, you really do create some questionable threads in regards to anything car audio related. Also, you seem to make a lot of mispellings, as well as a lot of misunderstandings of the basics in regards to competing, especially for somebody that has been doing for as long as you have. I understand you've stated that you have been out of the game for some time, but fuse ratings and such still obtains the same technology as it do before if I'm not mistaken.

[sweendog 3]

Fi is a great company that is very busy. Give them time and I'm sure they will get back to you. I have always had great customer service from them in the past.

 

You should have put a DMM on the coils before you boxed them up to see if they were burnt.

[OuTLaWeD 110]

Hey guys, need some help.live been competing for years so I have some knowledge, but I'm not up to date on the power I need to supply the amp I'm wanting to go with. I have a 220 amp alt. And hc 2400 kinetik. I'm.going to b running two fi bl 12's dual 2 on a sundown 3500d. Daily will b run at 1 ohm and compete at .5 ohm. Do I have enough power to push the amp to full potential? All help and suggestions appreciated. Thanks.

 

 

I just had a mtx 9512-44 go out on me. Pretty sure it's the voice coils. I've had it for nine years (and its taken many trophies) do u guys know if mtx will repair it? Already ordered fi bl's to take its place, but would still like to have this sub. Sentimental value I guess.

 

 

Can anyone give me info on the 12" bl's dual twos? What kind of max cottage for a burp at half ohm, break in time, etc. Plz help!!!!

 

 

How long do you guys recommend breaking in the ssd's b4 going to competition with them and putting a lot of power on them?

 

 

electrical system consists of 220 amp alt., 2 hc 2400 kinetik, and the big three completed. I have a 2000 blazer, box is built to vehicles peak tuning frequency. What would be the best amp to use for competition in the street 3 class for meca. Price of amp is not to much of an issue, just looking for something to get the most from the subs. All help would be appreciative.

 

 

I am wondering if the bc2000 will allow the use of 175 amp fuse. I will be burning it at a half ohm. So all u guys that have had experience with this amp I would appreciate ur thoughts.

 

 

It was brought up in another topic I have, but they said they could get an 80 amp fuse to hold on a 3500 watt burp. I plan on competing in meca and knowing how this is done would be vital info to me. Let me know how its done.

 

 

Are the MIDI fuses better than the bigger anl fuses?

 

 

Wow, to have been sponsered by MTX and Soundstream, you really do create some questionable threads in regards to anything car audio related. Also, you seem to make a lot of mispellings, as well as a lot of misunderstandings of the basics in regards to competing, especially for somebody that has been doing for as long as you have. I understand you've stated that you have been out of the game for some time, but fuse ratings and such still obtains the same technology as it do before if I'm not mistaken.

I agree completely

[OuTLaWeD 110]

Triple post fail

Edited February 16, 2013 by ChILL