True rms of Legacy-LA1990 (not buying it)

[tac2137 2]

Ok my friend has a type s in a ported box and a type r in a sealed box, both are prefab and both D4. He was told that the amp he has which is the Legacy LA1990 was $400 but he said he had no idea what kind of amp it was or even the name of it. i found it online and its more like a $100 amp, But im confused about the rms some websites are giving it. All i can find is 2×1000 output 1×2000 bridged output, 2×175 output 2×260 bridged and something like 0.04×1000 output. Now he told me about 2 weeks ago he had it wired at 4 ohms than yesterday he told me he had it bridged. He honestly thought he was running more than 1000watts and after i told him his amp was probably only 400 watts he said no way, i told him if you had 1000 watts your Windows would be flexing and yours doesn't even flex a little. This is also coming from a guy that thought just because i have 1/0 gauge wire that means my back window is guaranteed to blow out haha. I know it wont and i understand my friend doesn't know what he is talking about but all i want to know is if anyone knows anything about this amp and its true rms so he will stfu about his amazing amp that over heats in 40 min of playing. full name is Legacy LA1990 2 channel amp
 

[djjdnap 78]

take the fuse rating and multiply it by 10

 

edit i meant 10

Edited February 15, 2013 by djjdnap

[djjdnap 78]

I may have just confused myself for a second but

 

E=IR

P=E^2/R

 

So assuming you are at 12v and the fuse rating is 30amps(meaning that is the max that the amplifier will pull before blowing)

 

So E/I=R

12/30=.4ohms

 

watts=E^2/R

 

144/.4=360w max

 

now you try with 14.4v or with a running car...

[tac2137 2]

I may have just confused myself for a second but

 

E=IR

P=E^2/R

 

So assuming you are at 12v and the fuse rating is 30amps(meaning that is the max that the amplifier will pull before blowing)

 

So E/I=R

12/30=.4ohms

 

watts=E^2/R

 

144/.4=360w max

 

now you try with 14.4v or with a running car...

lmao, i appreciate the help but the hole E=^2/R just made me feel like an idiot cause i have no idea what you're talking about

[djjdnap 78]

well sorry about that

what is the fuse rating?

[tac2137 2]

well sorry about that

what is the fuse rating?

well i talked to him last night and he said he thinks he has 40s but i also remember hearing him say he couldnt find the right fuse that he had before so he just put the next size up. i also just found this " need to know the size of external fuses for a american legacy amp 2000 watt 2 channel 1990- 25 to 30 amp fuses will work..".

Edited February 17, 2013 by tac2137

[djjdnap 78]

 

Its 2 25's.

 

so with out alot of math your looking at 720watts max while the car is running and bridged.

 

So i would say 500w would be more of a realistic rating

[altoncustomtech 773]

From the information I'm coming up with it looks like the 2 x 175wrms @ 4 ohms and  2 x 260wrms @ 2 ohms is correct and for the most part believable, at least much more so than the 1,000 watts x 2 and 2,000 watts x 1 bridged.  I've also found most descriptions to include mentioning 60 amps of fusing, which by the look of the few pictures I can find would be a pair of 30 amp fuses.

 

Your buddy is going to have to come to grips with reality and understand that he's not running at any form of optimal.  He needs to build a good ported enclosure for his Type R and find a good amp that will give it in the neighborhood of it's rated RMS power.  He'll be blown away by doing those two things and it shouldn't cost him a great deal by finding a decent used amp or a fair new one like a Hifonics or Audiopipe at about 1000 or 1200wrms rating to get the right power at 2 ohms.

[tac2137 2]

From the information I'm coming up with it looks like the 2 x 175wrms @ 4 ohms and 2 x 260wrms @ 2 ohms is correct and for the most part believable, at least much more so than the 1,000 watts x 2 and 2,000 watts x 1 bridged. I've also found most descriptions to include mentioning 60 amps of fusing, which by the look of the few pictures I can find would be a pair of 30 amp fuses.

Your buddy is going to have to come to grips with reality and understand that he's not running at any form of optimal. He needs to build a good ported enclosure for his Type R and find a good amp that will give it in the neighborhood of it's rated RMS power. He'll be blown away by doing those two things and it shouldn't cost him a great deal by finding a decent used amp or a fair new one like a Hifonics or Audiopipe at about 1000 or 1200wrms rating to get the right power at 2 ohms.

Me and my other buddies have been telling him this all along. He just doesn't want to listen for some reason

[altoncustomtech 773]

He's lost in blissful ignorance.

Hopefully he'll wake up and smell the burning coils eventually. It's sad but there's actually a lot of people out there just like him.

[tac2137 2]

Its 2 25's.

so with out alot of math your looking at 720watts max while the car is running and bridged.

So i would say 500w would be more of a realistic rating

Thats it. Thank you

[tac2137 2]

He's lost in blissful ignorance.

Hopefully he'll wake up and smell the burning coils eventually. It's sad but there's actually a lot of people out there just like him.

Ha! I know he woke up when he spent $165 on a sony xplod at best buy and had to return it 3 times. Thats how he got the type S. The type R isnt even his. Thanks for the help.

[R3dt34rz 21]

Sounds like me when I first started out. I was running the good ole Sparkomatic gear.