Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[MKader17 332]

For photo backup/sharing I'm going to start this way.

RAW's imported into LR. Export good as is and edited photos to JPEG. Those are automatically picked up by Google Photos and imported in High Quality (which , as far as I can tell, exported at the same resolution).

I was doing RAW+JPEG on the camera and letting LR handle the RAW and Google Photos handle the JPEG straight from the SD, but then I have to delete bad photos in 2 locations.

[///M5 2,833]

Simplify that one step further.

Backup the WHOLE lightroom catalog to another location.  Then just copy pictures you want onto Drive.  I highly suggest using a flag or rating system.  Deleting isn't really necessary although good practice.  

There are 2 schools of thoughts in cataloging pictures.  Mark ONLY the ones you like and delete the shit or add one more flag in the middle.  I use the latter approach.  Garbage, Keep , Nice.  The "keep" I generally use as a box in case one that I develop in the Nice category has a flaw that a secondary shot may not.  Also a decent place for pictures of other peoples stuff that you don't want to delete today, but may never want to look at again.

Any more than 3 choices in your rating system will fuck you.  I actually think 2 is better....but the what if causes the engineer in me to keep too much.

[///M5 2,833]

The reality is though if it isn't great you don't want to show it to anyone....and the anyone includes yourself.  I am just not that mature in my shooting yet.

[///M5 2,833]

Also DO NOT use folders in light room.  The year is acceptable, but also unecessary as that info is kept.  You will notice at about 20,000 pictures though the software slows down and you should make a new catalog.

[MKader17 332]

13 hours ago, ///M5 said:

You had a hard time searching since you searched for depth of field without reference to the actual target being shot.  ie, is the assumption that you are closer to the subject but have the same field of view or a different one?  For you this question was never a though since you cannot zoom, but the whole internet world gets confused once you add the zoom into the equation and can't discuss it logically.

ie, the net thinks you were looking for a difference in dof using a 50mm for a headshot at X distance or a 70mm headshot at X+Y distance with the same overall picture.  Then the answer is they are the same.

This is where I landed that lead me to my conclusion.

13 hours ago, ///M5 said:

This then comes to the question you had while shopping and is now related to printing.  If you are only viewing 1080p or under 8.5x11 pictures if you want more of your target in focus (ie the ears) just back up and then crop in post processing to get the close up.

You may ask the logical question which is why not just use 1.8 or 2.0 instead to do the same.  The answer is of course then you need a slower shutter speed as you will have 1 or 2 stops less light when you do that.

Thanks for bringing that tip up. I'm always trying to completely frame the shot when I could get away with some extra distance. It's hard to know I'm not going to utilize every pixel.

13 hours ago, ///M5 said:

I think you are starting to see why your questions further show a fixed focus lens is definitely the best way to start.  You are going to skip years of nonsense photos since the lens is forcing you to think.  Great choice and buy by the way

A-freaking-greed. it's definitely a great variable to remove. It's too easy to spin the dial to frame the shot.

I can't too much credit for the correct buy, I had a couple guys help me out over the last couple years.

[MKader17 332]

13 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Simplify that one step further.

Backup the WHOLE lightroom catalog to another location.  Then just copy pictures you want onto Drive.  I highly suggest using a flag or rating system.  Deleting isn't really necessary although good practice.  

There are 2 schools of thoughts in cataloging pictures.  Mark ONLY the ones you like and delete the shit or add one more flag in the middle.  I use the latter approach.  Garbage, Keep , Nice.  The "keep" I generally use as a box in case one that I develop in the Nice category has a flaw that a secondary shot may not.  Also a decent place for pictures of other peoples stuff that you don't want to delete today, but may never want to look at again.

Any more than 3 choices in your rating system will fuck you.  I actually think 2 is better....but the what if causes the engineer in me to keep too much.

Haha, not what I expected you to say. I feel like I'm too ridiculous on keeping photos so I thought I would start now to not let it get out of hand. I wouldn't mind doing the keep all method for external storage, but the problem is there not a simple way to clear them out at a later date.

[///M5 2,833]

There is.  I use stars.

5 stars is exported, 4 I keep and 3 and below you can search for and delete.

*I should add I cheat my own method and use a 1 star but only for 10 minutes as those get deleted instantly.  Anything out of focus.

[///M5 2,833]

The other problem you will have is as you take better pictures you will look back and like less what you are shooting now.

[///M5 2,833]

I do try to rate as fast as possible.  Usually 400pics at a time, lol.  Scroll through, rate & delete.  Then I sort by 5 and start doing processing, if I have time leftover I do a few 4's to see if they can become 5's...although that is rare.  The 3's I never get around to deleting, but could across all my pictures in seconds.

[///M5 2,833]

I am interested in how Matt sorts his.  

The one difference in our shooting is that when I take pictures in an attempt to get them at golden hour I might end up with 50 of the same shot.  Normally many can work and until you process them it is hard to know.  This is why my 3's aren't emptied...as I never finish the processing.

[dem beats 1,223]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

There is.  I use stars.

5 stars is exported, 4 I keep and 3 and below you can search for and delete.

*I should add I cheat my own method and use a 1 star but only for 10 minutes as those get deleted instantly.  Anything out of focus.

That is amazing. I have been trying to find a way tl delete my garbage.  I just never found a way to be efficient.

[///M5 2,833]

My wife hardly knows the filters exist...but by default 4+ is selected

[MKader17 332]

1 hour ago, ///M5 said:

My wife hardly knows the filters exist...but by default 4+ is selected

You mean for her photos?

[MKader17 332]

Also. Should I rent or buy Lightroom.

I don't think I'll be using PS much and unless I get a microUSB to SDCard reader I won't be using LR mobile.

Not sure if Adobe will release another version soon. Assuming a new version would release at the same price the break even point is 8 months.

[MKader17 332]

Right now I'm going to do the following.

Import to LR

Reject crap photos

Export everything except potential "duplicates" to JPEG.

That will drop them into a folder the Google picks up and uploads to my Photos account in High Quality (I checked one photo and it uploaded it at full 18mp resolution).

 

I want to see what happens in the Google uploader when i make changes, re-export and overwrite the file. I wonder if it will pick it up and replace the file or make a second image.

[///M5 2,833]

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

You mean for her photos?

Ha, her photos.  Lol.  You want to see some out of focus nonsense?

She can't remember to switch it to "Auto" to take pics, but tries...and fails.  Of course even small they are fine, but it drives me NUTS!

[///M5 2,833]

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

Also. Should I rent or buy Lightroom.

I don't think I'll be using PS much and unless I get a microUSB to SDCard reader I won't be using LR mobile.

Not sure if Adobe will release another version soon. Assuming a new version would release at the same price the break even point is 8 months.

$100...buy it.  Only 1 pc per catalog and the mobile app SUCKS.  Just buy it and catalog where you want to, export for Drive/Cloud etc and call it a day.  It is really worth the money.

Have to hit Matt up for people shots and me for buildings and such.  AMAZING what it can do....just make sure you under expose a stop or so.

[///M5 2,833]

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

Right now I'm going to do the following.

Import to LR

Reject crap photos

Export everything except potential "duplicates" to JPEG.

That will drop them into a folder the Google picks up and uploads to my Photos account in High Quality (I checked one photo and it uploaded it at full 18mp resolution).

 

I want to see what happens in the Google uploader when i make changes, re-export and overwrite the file. I wonder if it will pick it up and replace the file or make a second image.

Do NOT export everything.  Use LR for nearly all you do.  Exporting is a waste unless you are "publishing".  Publishing everything is not what you want to do.  Just publish your good shit.

[///M5 2,833]

I could say that another way. 

If you haven't adjusted the shadows, highlighs, whites and blacks you should NEVER export the photo to anything EVER.

[///M5 2,833]

I classically would add lens profile correction and for building chromatic aberration, but nothing else is 'required'

[///M5 2,833]

Boudreau is worth the extra $2M/yr.  Unbelievable.

[MKader17 332]

21 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Boudreau is worth the extra $2M/yr.  Unbelievable.

Hokey?

[MKader17 332]

22 hours ago, ///M5 said:

I classically would add lens profile correction and for building chromatic aberration, but nothing else is 'required'

Can you explain more or point to to the right link. I'm learning LR and have very little experience making minor corrections on photos

[MKader17 332]

Like, I have to make sure to turn off Flux while I for LR work.

[///M5 2,833]

2 hours ago, MKader17 said:

Can you explain more or point to to the right link. I'm learning LR and have very little experience making minor corrections on photos

Lens correction section of the editing.  Check:

Profile correction

and for pictures of things, Chromatic Aberration

SAVE it as a profile that you use when you import (AND rename) and always do the profile.  

 

Profile corrects the "out of round/square" errors in your lens.  ie, if you should a chessboard perfectly square it won't be perfect.  Profile corrects for that.  When shooting architecture you also want to overshoot as well so that you can do a Perspective correction which will take the slants out of buildings and such.

Chromatic aberration shows up on edges of dark things with light spilling over them.  ie, the edges of all buildings in nearly any light other than moonlight and some golden hour sunrise.  It will show up as errors of color fringing on the borders of the these sections of the photos.  It is common enough that it was one of the first features added to ligthroom.  Some lenses and situations are worse.

Your lens is mild for both the above...but you can do it on import and should.

Take a picture of something outside that can be lackluster and email me the raw.   Preferably with a cloud or SOMETHING in the sky.  Under expose it a stop.