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Mark LaFountain

Welcome to the IHoP v.2

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Even before, I'd sort through my pictures realizing the different lenses that could be needed and rank which are the most important.  Ok, at the same time.  Then you will know what focus, fov and such you really need.

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Looked at the 40D again. I feel like i should start with a camera that accepts SD Cards...

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-_-

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3 hours ago, MKader17 said:

Looked at the 40D again. I feel like i should start with a camera that accepts SD Cards...

Meh.  Its an old body. It depends on what features you want. CF is awesome.

 

My friend who shoots concerts uses that. She rents a 7dii for shows when she can but it's her backup and she doesn't like full frame.

 

I feel a 60 or 70 would better for a starter honestly.

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Or as I said before.... Unless you think it's possible That someday you will spend >$1000 On glass, go mirrorless.

 

The people I know that shoot for their income have several bodies, and almost all have a mirrorless in their bag somewhere or one of the Sony a7 like bodies.  Even wedding photogs....

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When this whole thing started I threw out mirrorless as well.  Still think that for both of you it is the right answer.  

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21 hours ago, Godsmack said:

 

Would you use a socket and rachet on a decking screw? Would you use a hand saw to cut through a block of steel? I'm willing to bet the answer here is 'No. i would use the right tool for the task at hand.' Just the same, you won't want to shoot the Sistine Chapel or the Pieta with a 50mm simply due to the distace you will be from it, and the details lost at the distance.   This is where that 70-200 could be very useful.

A 50mm isn't a 'does it all lens' but it is a crucial block in the foundation. It can be great for portraits, 'street shooting' simple photos when unexpected, and best of all they are LIGHT. Other lenses have other uses. 

 

J

I get all that. My issue is that I don't know the difference between a socket and ratchet and a hand saw in this scenario.

I am trying to understand the tools I am using here. I really have zero hands on aside from an old 35MM Canon I bought as a kit years ago. I am trying to draw from others' experiences, here and elsewhere. My query was really tongue in cheek, but I also intended for it to provide a visual for some things I may photograph.

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21 hours ago, dem beats said:

Seth, those pictures are perfect. What would you like to change about them?

 

Show us some pictures you would like to make.

 

The close up stuff will require a macro lens.  The 50mm is a bad choice for that.

I can't say that I would change them. The cameras I used and the shots I took I thought turned out nicely. I want to try to play with a real camera to see what I can change about the final images, as I am not really sure how manipulating these shots may have made them better.

See, the thing is that I don't know what I would like to make. I didn't really set up any of these shots, aside from the shots of my pond in the morning. I just saw it and shot it. That is where my problem is. I want to get an idea of one or 2 lenses that I can just crank out to fill many different scenarios. I want to ensure that they are fairly foolproof, yet they have enough flexibility for me to play at the same time.

Those shots were taken from 3 different point and shoot cameras. 2 Nikons (one el-Cheapo and one kick ass P&S) and a Fujifilm wannabe DSLR/P&S. To me the pics turned out beautifully, which ultimately is what really matters. But I am sure I can change them up with a more capable camera.

That is my goal. IMO that is a big reason why nearly a kit setup seems to make sense. I did grab a body and a couple lenses after some research. I know that they will not meet up to the standards provided here, but ultimately they will suit my initial needs in being fairly all inclusive and foolproof, with enough room for me to play. As I develop familiarity with how my setting affect my final images I may or may not decide to upgrade the glass.

I bought a D5200 (retail $549), refurbished with a 3 year no questions asked drop/spill/breakage/failure warranty ($39 warranty), a Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED VR II AF-S DX Nikkor Lens (retail $299), Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G AF-S DX Nikkor VR II Lens (retail $199), WiFi module for Nikon (retail $49), lens filter kit (retail $149) from a good retailer for $614 shipped. This will give me room for cases, tripods, and other accessories to get me started. They are upgrades to the kit lenses with similar specs and VR stabilization.

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Ha, announcers just said my high school hockey coaches name on tv.  Last of my high school friends still playing in the NHL is in game 6 of the quarters.  I sure the fuck don't feel like my body would like playing hockey anymore.

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Doing it right if you are going to learn the hard way. :)

Buy used, figure it out and sell.  Those lenses are good for that.  Pay attention to what you shoot, what you don't like and the rest will get logical.  I'm curious to find out what range you think you want to upgrade first.  Hell I'm excited to watch.

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Since it is on the way, here is my personal getting started advice.

Aperature lock mode, low as possible to only focus on the subject at hand and F11 for getting everything in focus.   ISO 100.  Center focus spot only (half press on target to focus then frame).  And finding out what that means to your pictures.

The camera will pick the shutter speed for you.  If it is too slow for the situation you either have to reduce the Fstop or raise the ISO.  

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Just buy a cheap plastic tripod for $25.  Never shoot longer than 5 seconds with it.  It'll be fine.  When it pisses you off you'll know what you need to spend.  You may find it does everything you will ever need.

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And yes, I put a $30k laser on one today.  lol

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Don't bother running a filter on those either.  Protection should be from a hood, not another piece of glass.  When I shattered my 17-55 I think it was $75 from Canon for a new one.

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That of course is also a problem with a kit lens.  The hood.  Not big enough to protect and too big to take photos with vignetting.  

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Mine always wear their hoods....except when taking a picture with the built in flash.  BAD time to drop it.  Should experiment with yours.  Picture quality indoors is better with mine on.

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May have to grab my long Tamron super zoom and take some pics of the boys soccer game.

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2 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Since it is on the way, here is my personal getting started advice.

Aperature lock mode, low as possible to only focus on the subject at hand and F11 for getting everything in focus.   ISO 100.  Center focus spot only (half press on target to focus then frame).  And finding out what that means to your pictures.

The camera will pick the shutter speed for you.  If it is too slow for the situation you either have to reduce the Fstop or raise the ISO.  

This x eleventy billion.

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Pandora is on a rampage tonight.  

 

Type O Negative

None inch nails

Tool

Pantera

 

All deep tracks.  I really really wish I was listening through my new IEMS!!!!

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6 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Doing it right if you are going to learn the hard way. :)

Buy used, figure it out and sell.  Those lenses are good for that.  Pay attention to what you shoot, what you don't like and the rest will get logical.  I'm curious to find out what range you think you want to upgrade first.  Hell I'm excited to watch.

I grabbed one lens used, one refurb. I paid less than half retail for one and 1/3 retail for the other. I thought that was OK. I have decided to buy used or refurb wherever possible until I understand what I am doing.

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6 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Just buy a cheap plastic tripod for $25.  Never shoot longer than 5 seconds with it.  It'll be fine.  When it pisses you off you'll know what you need to spend.  You may find it does everything you will ever need.

I'm not opposed to that. One of the reasons I grabbed the WiFi module was to remote trigger from my phone or tablet. Without having to worry about movement from triggering I am good with a cheaper tripod.

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6 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Don't bother running a filter on those either.  Protection should be from a hood, not another piece of glass.  When I shattered my 17-55 I think it was $75 from Canon for a new one.

Wanting polarized filter for landscape shots.

CircularPolarizer.jpg

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7 hours ago, ///M5 said:

Since it is on the way, here is my personal getting started advice.

Aperature lock mode, low as possible to only focus on the subject at hand and F11 for getting everything in focus.   ISO 100.  Center focus spot only (half press on target to focus then frame).  And finding out what that means to your pictures.

The camera will pick the shutter speed for you.  If it is too slow for the situation you either have to reduce the Fstop or raise the ISO.  

 

5 hours ago, dem beats said:

This x eleventy billion.

and Jared... I am certain I will have questions for you guys on set up and use. Please bear in mind that I am a total n00b and my questions may seem moronic, but I don't know shit about a real camera, so go easy on me.

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