Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

He doesn't invite sink shitters over.

I did not shit in the sink, just rinsed...Huge differance..

end result seemed to be your shit in a sink. It shouldn't be in the sink....

[///M5 2,833]

I just youtubed some keith urban solos. EASY to play although probably as talented as any other genre of popular music. Johnny makes him look like a retard

[///M5 2,833]

Made a JH Pandora station. Hellecasters can play too but I find them more boring.

[///M5 2,833]

I found him looking for examples of hand picking with two fingers and picking with the thumb and pointer. I call that funk, he calls it chick'n pick'n

[mikel7829 90]

I found him looking for examples of hand picking with two fingers and picking with the thumb and pointer. I call that funk, he calls it chick'n pick'n

Do you prefer two fingers or thumb?

[ssh 924]

He doesn't invite sink shitters over.

I did not shit in the sink, just rinsed...Huge differance..

You're right, but you're still so wrong.

[mikel7829 90]

 

 

He doesn't invite sink shitters over.

I did not shit in the sink, just rinsed...Huge differance..

You're right, but you're still so wrong.

 

Maybe... That is a  personal opinion. But your wrong for confusing shitting and rinsing "PROVEN" fact it is different. 

[sandt38 448]

Any of you guys use a foam cannon on your vehicles? Seems like the ultimate pre-soak, but I want to be sure before I drop some serious money on it. Also, is it better to get the kind for a pressure washer or a water hose?

 

Amazon has the chemical guys version and some sort of knock off. All the reviews for the knock off are good, but recent....

http://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=foam+cannon

 

I mentioned my buddy is a detailer. He honestly does it because he loves it. He did a small series on how to detail a car. He uses a foam cannon on some vehicles. I will share his series here for you.

 

 

WASHING

Washing a vehicle is nearly always the first step in any detail and essential for caring for your vehicles finish. Improper washing techniques (along with dealership washing/detailing and car washes) are often the biggest cause of swirl marks (spider webbing) and scratches on a vehicles finish. I wash EVERY vehicle the same way I recommend my customers to. I use the 2 bucket method (1 bucket with soapy water and one with clean water) with Grit Guards at the bottom of the buckets. This washing method helps ensure that you’re not transferring dirt back onto your vehicles paint causing damage. I use premium ph balanced automotive shampoos and a variety of high quality wash mitts (Micro-Chenille, sheepskin, and Merino Wool). I also use a separate bucket for cleaning the wheels, tires, and wheel wells. Safely washing your vehicle this way may be a little more time consuming and require some extra tools, but it is essential in helping to maintain your cars finish. For the heavily soiled vehicles I give a presoak foam bath using my foam cannon and a concentrated shampoo that is specially formulated for this use. The suds start loosening grime and lubricating the paint which is not only effective, but a lot safer on the paint too.

 

 

 

DRYING

Yesterday I mentioned how important proper, safe washing techniques/products are to your vehicles finish. Equally important is safe drying methods/products. Everyone knows that if you don’t dry your vehicle after washing you’re likely to get unsightly water spots on your vehicles freshly cleaned finish. In time these mineral deposits can actually etch the clear coat! For drying I use microfiber towels that are manufactured with a waffle-weave texture. These high quality towels can absorb up to 7 times their own weight in moisture and are completely nonabrasive. I also use drying aids to help with lubricity while drying a vehicle. For seams, behind emblems, cracks and crevices, and wheels I use a steady stream of warm, filtered air from my Metro Blaster Sidekick.

 

 

WAX & SEALANTS

First and foremost their purpose is to provide your paint with protection. They are the only barrier between your paint and UV rays, oxidation, environmental pollution, salt, and moisture. The shield provided by wax, sealants, and coatings helps LESSEN the chance of scratches/chips, the paint fading, water spots, and damage from things like bird bombs and tree sap. They also make washing your vehicle easier as bugs and other contaminants are removed easier from your paint. Of course they make your paint look better by covering up blemishes (they do NOT remove them), creates a more uniform reflective surface, and depth/gloss of the paint. It should be considered regular maintenance for your vehicles paint (just like changing the oil) and be applied at least twice a year. If not for yourself, think about the resale value of your car latter down the road when you go to sell it/trade it in.

Wax (Carnauba and synthetic) and sealants each have their advantages. From the rich warm glow that a Carnauba wax provides to the 6-8 month longevity of a high quality paint sealant. You can even layer a sealant with a wax to get the best of both worlds. Just let me know exactly what your looking to get out of your cars finish and we can discuss the best route to take.

 

 

 

MICROFIBER & TOWELS

Microfiber towels are truly the backbone of a good detail. From doing rinseless/waterless washes, removing polishing/wax residue, cleaning/conditioning leather, drying, or applying spray waxes - high quality microfibers are absolutely essential to high quality detailing for both the interior and exterior of any vehicle.

Microfiber is a man-made material that combines two fibers, polyester and polyamide. Quality microfibers have “split loop” fibers which is a very costly process and the reason these towels sell for $1-$8 EACH (keep in mind over the course of a typical detail I use anywhere from 5-20 microfiber towels). On dry surfaces the microfiber towels use electrostatic energy to easily lift and collect large amounts of dust, dirt and other particles in to the micro-wedges of each fiber. In choosing a microfiber towel for a specific use you need to consider its ratio of polyester to polyamide blend (I only use 70/30, 75/25, and 80/20 blends), and its weight (density/thickness). For example, I only use 360-800 gsm (grams per a square meter) weight on paint. I’m not even going to get into taking into account a microfibers size, pile height, and edges (edgeless, silk banded, etc.).

[mikel7829 90]

And anyways I would never shit or rinse my ass in you guys sink.Yall are my family in my eyes like it or not.

[mikel7829 90]

I have been doing some serious thinking,and in the soon future I am thinking of purchasing a farm..Maybe nothing real huge for starters but something pretty deccent that will not affect my normal day to day life and something that will still turn a little profit. And see how that goes for a couple of years.Then maybe step into it a bit more if all goes well IDK..

[Godsmack 361]

Perhaps on the undercarriage, but it's not an issue on paint. The salt naturally erodes with water and the residue is washed away by the detergent. It's simple.My winters are no different than yours minus a coupke extra weeks of snow. I know there is no need fir a pressure washer.

You guys don't know salt, lol. Crystal build up on your paint is not unusual. When you have 3 weeks that it is too cold to wash (car washes here close below 10F usually) and then get to wash you will get old and frumpy waiting for salt to erode with only water. Higher pressure >>> rubbing.

NY (especially upstate) will give you a run for your money. It's all either salt or sand, and its salt 95% of the time. Nothing lirke seein a black truck that is white and slush brown on the bottom 3/4 for a good 7 months a year.

J

[topgun 262]

Maybe nothing real huge for starters but something pretty deccent that will not affect my normal day to day life and something that will still turn a little profit.

Wait, what?

That doesn't make sense...

[///M5 2,833]

Perhaps on the undercarriage, but it's not an issue on paint. The salt naturally erodes with water and the residue is washed away by the detergent. It's simple.My winters are no different than yours minus a coupke extra weeks of snow. I know there is no need fir a pressure washer.

You guys don't know salt, lol. Crystal build up on your paint is not unusual. When you have 3 weeks that it is too cold to wash (car washes here close below 10F usually) and then get to wash you will get old and frumpy waiting for salt to erode with only water. Higher pressure >>> rubbing.

NY (especially upstate) will give you a run for your money. It's all either salt or sand, and its salt 95% of the time. Nothing lirke seein a black truck that is white and slush brown on the bottom 3/4 for a good 7 months a year.

J

Any place that has weeks in a row not busting 15F is sure to use a ton of salt, lol.

Those are the best weeks for me to put on miles too as 2 strokes LOVE the dense air.

[///M5 2,833]

Maybe nothing real huge for starters but something pretty deccent that will not affect my normal day to day life and something that will still turn a little profit.

Wait, what?

That doesn't make sense...

Are you saying it was expected?

[///M5 2,833]

Farm ≠ Profit

[///M5 2,833]

without LOTS of work

[mikel7829 90]

Maybe nothing real huge for starters but something pretty deccent that will not affect my normal day to day life and something that will still turn a little profit.

Wait, what?

That doesn't make sense...

Why does that not make sense?

[///M5 2,833]

slow, eh?

[mikel7829 90]

without LOTS of work

Guess it depends on what you call LOTS of work. LOTS of work will probably be viewed differently by somebody that gets to sit at work even if it is not much at all. If I had to guess IDK. Plus thats why you hire hands.

[mikel7829 90]

A deccent size farm that still turns profit after you pay your help and ect.ect.. How does that not make sense..Just like any other business if you profit and you still carry on your normal life you have been doing makes sense to me..

[mikel7829 90]

Probably think I am joking but I am for real.I believe I can do it in a manner were It will not only be a chunk of property that will pay for itself,a little extra cash on the side and something I always wanted to have..Some what of a little dream of mine.

[mikel7829 90]

Hell yea!! More rain!! I will be eating fresh watermelon in no time!!

[///M5 2,833]

without LOTS of work

Guess it depends on what you call LOTS of work. LOTS of work will probably be viewed differently by somebody that gets to sit at work even if it is not much at all. If I had to guess IDK. Plus thats why you hire hands.

My whole family farm. I grew up in a family business that is all manual. I know what work is.

I also have a ton of friends that farm. Some make good money some don't. Guess what the difference is?

[///M5 2,833]

A deccent size farm that still turns profit after you pay your help and ect.ect.. How does that not make sense..Just like any other business if you profit and you still carry on your normal life you have been doing makes sense to me..

ROFL. "Decent size farm" = HUGE investment.

If you are raising animals and need to feed them:

300 acres * $5k/acre = $1.5M

3 tractors = $1M

Yearly fertilizer/seed/etc = $300k

That is minimizing expenses like hell and means you pay around $15k/mo for 30 years IF you can get a loan. $180k/yr in minimized expenses + hired hands means you will need to net $300k. Perhaps you should do the math on what local crops/animals can net that.

[///M5 2,833]

There is a reason that family farms are shrinking and corporate farms taking over. Unless you have money it is hard to make money. And as for investing in the farm if you have that sort of dough you should really look at other things to invest into.