Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

Mechanical is one thing, electrical another.

[///M5 2,833]

The XT60 connector above allows shrink tube to fit in the connector and grab it while then grabbing the wire.  Pretty weather proof and definitely mechanically sound.  Use them on my RC truck which gets its ass raped.

[///M5 2,833]

Should add i only need 16-18ga or so, those connectors work to 8 rather nicely.  

[nem 2,019]

Sean to make things easier, sent it to me and I will do what you want. I need another project.

[nem 2,019]

I am sad to say this, but I will be glad when Christmas is over because this cheer trip has brought a lot of tension and stress in my house. I would much rather pay for everything than deal with fund raising. Sad that such a good thing can bring such grief.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

 

 

I don't trust crimp so much either.  

 

Compounded in when I change one thing, then I should change the rest.  If I were doing that there are about 8 other strange connectors I'd need to fabricate which I would in an ideal world....but if I am doing that much work I am getting a Poo raceshop 797 first.  

Crimping is one of THE best connections.  I don't know if you just want the connectors or them wired.  I've never seen one bare, only molded with leads, such as. . .

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/Molded-Connectors-without-a-Loop/p_8593

 

I know.  Just have always felt better about solder.  Obviously conditions on a sled with temp, vibe, and lots of abrupt motion aren't easy on anything.  Soldering into a solid connector with strain relief and plugging just feels the most secure to me.  I have crimps all of the sled.  It came that way.  Hell the damn thing is riveted together, lol.

 

I've worked on controls sent up in spacecraft, military controls, and every seismic standard in the book and every project used crimped connections.  Granted we used spec'd crimpers, terminals, and our crimpers were calibrated every three weeks, but you get the point. 

[///M5 2,833]

For instance, this rectifier has exactly the connectors I need on it and their female counterpart.

 

Sort of mimics many/most of the accessories on the sled so unless I want to hack the harness even more....

 

I am not unwilling to hack more if it cleans up the wiring however.  Spent 2 hours on it today though cleaning pretty much everything else up.

[///M5 2,833]

 

 

 

I don't trust crimp so much either.  

 

Compounded in when I change one thing, then I should change the rest.  If I were doing that there are about 8 other strange connectors I'd need to fabricate which I would in an ideal world....but if I am doing that much work I am getting a Poo raceshop 797 first.  

Crimping is one of THE best connections.  I don't know if you just want the connectors or them wired.  I've never seen one bare, only molded with leads, such as. . .

 

http://www.delcity.net/store/Molded-Connectors-without-a-Loop/p_8593

 

I know.  Just have always felt better about solder.  Obviously conditions on a sled with temp, vibe, and lots of abrupt motion aren't easy on anything.  Soldering into a solid connector with strain relief and plugging just feels the most secure to me.  I have crimps all of the sled.  It came that way.  Hell the damn thing is riveted together, lol.

 

I've worked on controls sent up in spacecraft, military controls, and every seismic standard in the book and every project used crimped connections.  Granted we used spec'd crimpers, terminals, and our crimpers were calibrated every three weeks, but you get the point. 

 

I started out with I know.

 

...just don't believe.  Sort of like I feel a weld is better than glue.  Has to be right?

[///M5 2,833]

And yes, I can prove differently, but still

[///M5 2,833]

Sean to make things easier, sent it to me and I will do what you want. I need another project.

It wouldn't take us long.  As always it takes me way longer to decide what I need for parts than to put them on.

 

The longest being starting.  I should have my fuel shut off switch and oil line by Wednesday which has been the delay.  Didn't have enough line which nets a non-install as the motoor has to come out to install the line.  Wiring used to look like this:

[Tirefryr 1,742]

You are one anal bastard.

[///M5 2,833]

Ok, wrong shot.  Lol.

 

YAY, dirty as hell garage.

[///M5 2,833]

You are one anal bastard.

Yep, everything is getting loomed.  

[///M5 2,833]

There is a spot on the motor tray that looks like the wire loom around the coolant hose has worn into the aluminum.  If not its location is very dubious.

[nem 2,019]

You are one anal bastard.

Yep, everything is getting loomed.

He just knows what he wants.

[///M5 2,833]

I don't want any failure in the field and when something takes a shit I want to know exactly where and what it is.  Last year pissed me off BAD.  Having the motor out 3x over the only fucking thing I paid someone to do SUCKED.  In particular since I spent at least 50 hours in a garage that was below -10F.

[///M5 2,833]

And while fixing, I am cleaning.

[///M5 2,833]

The reason I wan the butt connector is because the sled is all AC....except, I have added an EGT/Tach/H20 temp gauge that runs on DC, a GPS that requires DC, and have a phone charging port.  Means I need a rectifier, capacitor and fuse box.  AC regulators go out somewhat often when you wallop on sleds.  Have an off for my head light for that purpose and now fuses on the DC.  LED tail light will take full voltage so I can limp home without one and not cause damage.  Plus I can't own anything that isn't fused right.

[Godsmack 361]

I am sad to say this, but I will be glad when Christmas is over because this cheer trip has brought a lot of tension and stress in my house. I would much rather pay for everything than deal with fund raising. Sad that such a good thing can bring such grief.

Just focus on the end goal brother. It will be worth it to her in the long run.

J

[Godsmack 361]

A much younger friend who I trained with in the past asked me yesterday if I would be interested in working out with him for an upcoming fight in Allentown. As much as I would love to get back into training I think I might be at the point where I would rather give advice.

Do you mean sparring or as a trainer? Two different fields.

J

[Adrian_D 520]

I'm just upset I had to miss the gym this morning. I'll make up for it tonight if I'm not still a biological fountain.

 

I haven't been the the gym in one month. At least seeing 10 SPL meters ready on the workbench feels good. The gym where I used to go got extremely crowded with douchebags. 

[sandt38 448]

 

Sean you should be able to use battery tender extensions cables with that. If you look on amazon you can get them pretty cheap.

I just want the connectors, the wire is in place.  Trying to avoid extra splices since any and all connections on my sled I expect to fail.

 

https://www.google.com/search?q=bullet+connectors&ie=utf-8&oe=utf-8&aq=t&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&client=firefox-a&channel=fflb#q=bullet+connectors&rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&channel=fflb&tbm=shop

[sandt38 448]

I don't trust crimp so much either.  

 

Compounded in when I change one thing, then I should change the rest.  If I were doing that there are about 8 other strange connectors I'd need to fabricate which I would in an ideal world....but if I am doing that much work I am getting a Poo raceshop 797 first.  

 

If non-insul crimps are available, simply crimp, solder, then heat shrink. I have taken to using non-insul butt connectors/solder/shrink for all inline repair. If all you can get are insul crimps, just use a small sharp knife to remove the insul.

[nem 2,019]

J a bit of both. They have done well in local MMA and full contact kickboxing fights from Allentown to Atlantic City.  I am not expert, but they enjoyed my help or maybe just pounding on me, not sure.

[topgun 262]

Crimp with a real set of crimpers, not a cheap-o set.