Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[MKader17 332]

I'm going to do new upper control arms, lower ball joints, tie rod ends, pitman arm on the Silverado. Any thing else I should do or any worthy upgrades in that area?

[MKader17 332]

I am still shocked everytime I go into the garage. That pizza box is fucking huge. Mmmm, wilwood pizza

Save the boxes for a pizza party.

[nem 2,019]

Did I say BIG?

 

Fun project there! How do you like the upgrade?

[///M5 2,833]

Unboxed last night

[nem 2,019]

Unboxed last night

 

Suprised the little men did not go out and do.

[nem 2,019]

How can you just look at them with out wanting to put them on?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Aluminum hats?

[///M5 2,833]

How can you just look at them with out wanting to put them on?

I can't

[///M5 2,833]

Aluminum hats?

Doubt it, they are heavy.

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Every set I've bought were. If so they are a mother pucker to torque down. Any reason why you opted for drilled rotors on a DD

[ssh 924]

Unboxed last night

 

And you're still not done?

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

And before you assemble make sure they sent you cupped washers and not flat. If not the friction ring and hat will rattle their ass off until they get good and hot.

[dem beats 1,223]

I am still shocked everytime I go into the garage. That pizza box is fucking huge. Mmmm, wilwood pizza

Mad jelly bro!

[///M5 2,833]

Every set I've bought were. If so they are a mother fucker to torque down. Any reason why you opted for drilled rotors on a DD

no disadvantage according to wilwood

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Every set I've bought were. If so they are a mother pucker to torque down. Any reason why you opted for drilled rotors on a DD

no disadvantage according to wilwood

I give them 6 months to a year and they'll start cracking.

But do check on those washers. The drive pins with flat washers float allowing the hat and roster to expand since they are made from different materials. They will chatter if you don't use cupped washers. We used Willwood for years on our track cars until we upgraded to StopTech.

[///M5 2,833]

Every set I've bought were. If so they are a mother fucker to torque down. Any reason why you opted for drilled rotors on a DD

no disadvantage according to wilwood

I give them 6 months to a year and they'll start cracking.

But do check on those washers. The drive pins with flat washers float allowing the hat and roster to expand since they are made from different materials. They will chatter if you don't use cupped washers. We used Willwood for years on our track cars until we upgraded to StopTech.

Interesting. After they told me that I searched and couldn't found shit to none for cracked cases on trucks.

[///M5 2,833]

Tech I spoke to at Wilwood says on the Chevy BBK he's never heard of a cracked rotor.

Their site isn't as nice in saying the same, but from here: http://www.wilwood.com/TechTip/TechFaqs.aspx


Rotors
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Q: What's the difference between slotted and drilled/slotted rotors? Which rotor will be best for my application?
A:

PSlots or grooves in rotor faces are partly a carryover from the days of asbestos pads. Asbestos and other organic pads were prone to “glazing” and the slots tended to help “scrape or de-glaze” them. Also, cross-drilling and/or slotting the rotor for racing purposes was beneficial by providing a way to expel the gasses created when the bonding agents employed to manufacture the pads began to break down at extreme temperatures. This condition is often referred to as “outgassing.” When it does occur, the driver still has a good firm brake pedal, but a significant reduction in friction. Normally this only happens at temperatures witnessed in racing. However, with today’s race pad technology, “outgassing” is no longer a concern with pads designed for racing.

So in the final analysis, drilling and slotting rotors has become popular in street applications for their pure aesthetic value. Wilwood provides rotors slotted, drilled or plain. For most performance applications, slotted is the preferred choice. With certain pad material, slotting can help wipe away debris from between the pad and rotor as well as increasing the coefficient of friction between the rotor and the pad. A drilled rotor provides the same type of benefit, but is more susceptible to cracking under severe usage; however, for street and occasional light duty track use, they will work fine. For more severe applications, we recommend slotted rotors.

[dem beats 1,223]

Should have gone for slotted drilled and wave.

[dem beats 1,223]

So.... We just got the cobalt back and it's braking like shit I guess. Just sitting cause them to rust? Are they shot?

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

I would have went with slotted for the reasons highlighted.  Yea drilled looks cool but newer slotted is just as if not more effective.  And they will last longer.  A google search of cracked willwood breaks brings up multiple links.  Most are on high performance cars but why risk using them if Willwood says yea they are "ok" for a daily driver but use slotted for a performance vehicle because they work better.  It's a no brainer.

[///M5 2,833]

I would have went with slotted for the reasons highlighted.  Yea drilled looks cool but newer slotted is just as if not more effective.  And they will last longer.  A google search of cracked willwood breaks brings up multiple links.  Most are on high performance cars but why risk using them if Willwood says yea they are "ok" for a daily driver but use slotted for a performance vehicle because they work better.  It's a no brainer.

They are slotted and drilled.

 

The tech said on the trucks it is what he'd recommend for the street.  Never seen a set crack and they deal with all the weight and associated heat better.

[Godsmack 361]

How often do you guys usually replace brakes anyways?

J

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

How often do you guys usually replace brakes anyways?

J

Dirt track once a season, auto cross 2 MAYBE 3 weekends.

[Godsmack 361]

How often do you guys usually replace brakes anyways?

J

Dirt track once a season, auto cross 2 MAYBE 3 weekends.

Damn. AC is insanely expensive eh?

And daily drivers?

J

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

I just changed the brakes on my civic at 65k. The metal thingy magiggy that's let's you know the pads are wore out was rubbing the rotor.