Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

Drive to Iowa. Not that far and the beef is generally better if you are just searching for something raised reasonably well.

[///M5 2,833]

A grinder would be fantastic too.

True. Shops are small enough up by my in laws that they'll grind what we bring if we didn't have one. We pay the butcher already though. $25 per hog to kill, bleed, gut, skin & hang.

[///M5 2,833]

Then my hunting inlaws whom are all hunters beg me to come up and butcher the carcass. None of them cook so they don't know what meat looks like. Just eat and kill.

[///M5 2,833]

I don't hunt, but cook

[///M5 2,833]

Might buy a bow this year though. I didn't get a deer from any of my friends this year.

[///M5 2,833]

I know where bambi lives and the little guy should be in my freezer.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

 

 

I mean seriously, you see the size of the breasts in those bags? That is hardcore not natural. In a normally bred heritage breed chicken the thigh is about the size of the breast. Fuck eating those genetical modified beasts that are sold to the masses. Yikes. I don't want a third testical.

I'd actually rather eat vegetarian meat. ie, stem cell bred heritage stuff than genetically modified.

We get sonenthatbare vac packed and they are always a "natural" size and have a much better color/ flavor than the typical Great Value selection.

 

No non-frozen pre-shipped in chicken is $3/lb for boneless skinless breasts...

 

 

W have it all over here. Amish Farms too.  I just bought it a couple weeks ago on sale for $1.29/lb.

 

[ricksi30 923]

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

 

 

 

I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

 

I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free.  Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. 

 

Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

 

 

 

I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

 

I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free.  Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. 

 

Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed.

 

If the car is not running then yes try the discharge. 30 seconds is usually sufficient. If it is running I would try to retrieve the codes first. 

After re reading your first post I remember a similar issue on a Nissan I worked on. IIRC It ended up being the MAP/MAF sensor in the air intake. I can't remember if I just cleaned it or replaced it. IIRC I replaced it bc it tested out of range with a ohm's meter.

[ricksi30 923]

 

 

 

 

SETH I just searched for a quote from you so that you would see this! So I took my mothers 2.5 2003 Nissan Altima (100k miles) in because it was idling rough and would "chug" while driving. They had it for 3 days and could not get it to replicate the problem. I said fine forget it as my Mom had already bought a new car and she was just going to cut her losses and she was going to sell it. I couldn't pick it up that day and the next day I get a call that they tried to back it out of the garage and it "blew up" it made a loud sound and now it won't start. They said that the 3rd cylinder had low pressure and they didn't want to dig any deeper without permission. They said that it may have "jumped the timing chain" and that it could be an easy fix or that "the engine might need to be replaced". This car has been meticulously maintained by these idiots but I just have a hard time believing that this engine is truly done. Is there anything that you can suggest without having your hands on it? This place seems to be incompetent but they are not trying to charge to fix anything so I do not know what to make of the situation. If you can suggest anything I'd appreciate it. We are basically looking for the best way to get rid of it financially. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Basically if it were your car and you couldn't work on it yourself what would you do? We had an offer of $750 for it but it has $500 dollars worth of brand new rubber on it, and the kbb value is about 4.5k in poor condition. Should we attempt to repair and sell it, or should we just sell it as a "mechanics special"? If we try to sell it what should we expect? I completely understand if you can't give a definitive answer, I'm just looking for a ballpark.

 

 

 

I'd get the issue looked into by a competent mechanic before selling it. It is doubtful that it is a mechanical issue, by the sounds of things. On a Nissan I would be more inclined to believe an injector failure. Odds are they tried throwing coils and plugs on it and it didn't work. Nissans are notorious for injector issues.

 

I agree with Seth that is more likely something non mechanical, like an injector or bad sensor somewhere sending faulty signals to the ECM. Lazy mechanics don't want anything to do with electrical gremlins. I have repaired and sold many electric gremlin cars that I got for free.  Have you retrieved any code's from the ECM? Try resetting the ECM and see if it has any effect. When an ECM is reset it will run in limp (default) mode for X amount of mile's (usaully around 50mi) until the ECM has collected enough data to recalibrate. To reset the ECM disconnect the battery cables and hold the cable ends together. This will discharge any power stored in the ECM and clear all collected data. Make sure to retrieve any codes before discharging. Some code's are false in the sense that they point you in the right direction, but not always the actual sensor. 

 

Awesome guys thanks! So if I reset the ecm I might be able to get it home, also how long do I need to touch the wires to discharge the ecm? My house is only about 3 miles away and my Mom's is even closer. If not I'll probably just get it towed.

 

If the car is not running then yes try the discharge. 30 seconds is usually sufficient. If it is running I would try to retrieve the codes first. 

After re reading your first post I remember a similar issue on a Nissan I worked on. IIRC It ended up being the MAP/MAF sensor in the air intake. I can't remember if I just cleaned it or replaced it. IIRC I replaced it bc it tested out of range with a ohm's meter.

 

Hmmm when they were screwing with it they said the MAF sensor was very dirty so they cleaned it. I was thinking that could be it as I have read that cleaning them can mess them up. It does not start btw.

[ricksi30 923]

I'm not great with cars but I'm not totally incompetent so hopefully we can get her running and sold as we both bought new cars. It would be nice for my Mom to recoup a few grand out of it. Someone offered me 750 for it and she told me to just get rid of it. I said no way I'll talk to some people smarter than me and see what we can do with it.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

I'm not great with cars but I'm not totally incompetent so hopefully we can get her running and sold as we both bought new cars. It would be nice for my Mom to recoup a few grand out of it. Someone offered me 750 for it and she told me to just get rid of it. I said no way I'll talk to some people smarter than me and see what we can do with it.

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes".

 http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html

Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is. 

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

My dad is so frugal we lived on deer and elk meat growing up. The part that made it bad was we had to eat the oldest packages first, which were usually 2-3 yrs old and freezer burnt. That and powered fucking milk. I still like some juicy cow elk meat every once in a while.  

http://www.elkusa.com/elk_meat.html?gclid=CM6415i5w7wCFedAMgodjFcA7A

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

We had meat from an old milk cow at my dad's last time I ate there. That MFer was tough eating there.

[ricksi30 923]

 

I'm not great with cars but I'm not totally incompetent so hopefully we can get her running and sold as we both bought new cars. It would be nice for my Mom to recoup a few grand out of it. Someone offered me 750 for it and she told me to just get rid of it. I said no way I'll talk to some people smarter than me and see what we can do with it.

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes".

 http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html

Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is. 

 

Thank you and Seth for your help, I really appreciate some honest advice from people who aren't going to try to screw me. I bought a bluetooth scanner it should be here soon. It is most likely going to sit for a few weeks until I get some time to mess with it.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 

 

I'm not great with cars but I'm not totally incompetent so hopefully we can get her running and sold as we both bought new cars. It would be nice for my Mom to recoup a few grand out of it. Someone offered me 750 for it and she told me to just get rid of it. I said no way I'll talk to some people smarter than me and see what we can do with it.

This was just a quick google of "2003 Altima retrieve codes".

 http://forums.nicoclub.com/how-to-info-reset-ecu-pull-codes-reset-windows-etc-t525400.html

Some car's require an OBD style reader but others just require a sequence of events to make the check engine light blink out the codes in a morse code style fashion. If you own an ohm tester you can look in the service manual what the acceptable range of the faulty sensor/injector is. 

 

Thank you and Seth for your help, I really appreciate some honest advice from people who aren't going to try to screw me. I bought a bluetooth scanner it should be here soon. It is most likely going to sit for a few weeks until I get some time to mess with it.

 

Good luck. We will be here if you need any more advise.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Too early in the morning for this shit

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

[The enD 467]

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Too early in the morning for this shit

Your aren't fucking kidding

[///M5 2,833]

We had meat from an old milk cow at my dad's last time I ate there. That MFer was tough eating there.

Which is why most of my inlaws only eat burger. Conveniently when they butcher a cow/steer that is of the right age that means they don't want the steaks. I know how to help them.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 

We had meat from an old milk cow at my dad's last time I ate there. That MFer was tough eating there.

Which is why most of my inlaws only eat burger. Conveniently when they butcher a cow/steer that is of the right age that means they don't want the steaks. I know how to help them.

 

Ignorance is bliss for my old man. Me on the other hand, not so much. I am sure he choose the worst cuts to pawn off on us. I couldn't even tell what part it was. 

[The enD 467]

How long can aluminum withstand the weather conditions without any noticeable wear?

I am asking about that piece under the plastic mesh, it will get rained on, heated by the sun and engine.

 

[The enD 467]

Fucking hell, shipping on CLD tiles is more than the tiles themself.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

<Is still dreaming of the macadamia crusted Ahi I have in the Pacific. Reminded me of the brown trout we have here.