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Mark LaFountain

Welcome to the IHoP v.2

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Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game.

Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes?

J

Didn't remeber you're a Yankees fan. ;)

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37080_469648649738492_1511511272_n.jpg

Sweet baby Jesus and all that is holy thank you for yoga pants..... and yoga.

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Sean, what are the details on your home security. I'll have a solid internet connection at my house (50 Mbps) so it will be possible.

Huh? What does internet have to do with home security and what are you looking for?
Assumed you need solid Internet for a remote connection.

At the least I'm looking for door and window sensors and some loud ass alarms. Ability to call cops, and or fire dept is good.

Remote video surveillance would be cool, any other form of home automation is also a plus.

You need a fast enough connection to equal RS232 biggrin.png Mine was all serial for a while.

The actual sensors are even on a slower bus. You don't need millions of times per second as milliseconds don't matter. What you do need is something hardwired to every single entry. Wireless stuff sucks IMO.

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Today's alarms have built in GSM modems they use in cell phones so practically impossible to cut the communication line..

Not built in, it's a module. Usually a couple hundred bucks, but can be had cheaper if you are a wholesaler. I know one wink.png

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I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. smile.png It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to smile.png

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My DSL line might be on par with RS-232 speeds, :roflmao:

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I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. smile.png It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to smile.png

 

 

Pop rivets? 

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Figured out why injectors 2 & 3 aren't working on my truck and cause it to run rough at low and mid rpm ranges....  The god damn things aren't even hooked up.  No fricking wires to them.  I'm actually somewhat impressed now that it runs as well as it does two injectors down.  I've just been thinking they were crapped out and stuck open and had to buy new ones, been to lazy to drop the money on something that just runs around town but now that I know the problem I get to pull the intake off and play electrical fixit man. 

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I do feel somewhat stupid that its the wiring that's bad and its taken me this long to track it down.  Needless to say it never fails to start and get me from a to b so I haven't looked to hard but it sure will be nice to have a proper running vehicle again. 

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Its a '94 Ford 5.0L for those curious. 

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I am loving my Surface RT tablet too, just really dang handy for what I do.

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I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. smile.png It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to smile.png

 

 

Pop rivets?

Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick smile.png

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Cursing gets rivets out faster. The more cursing, the better.

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Go slow, good drill bit, 135* split point a normal drill bit will be fine no need for TiNi coatings, cobalt probably isn't needed either.  Cutting fluid wouldn't hurt either.  Keep the drill bit under ~60 surface feet per minute, (4*60)/dia of bit.  Drill bits from most stores suck, Fastenal sucks.  McMaster carr has good stuff, normally from Precision twist drill. 

 

Shoot me a PM some time...

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A dremel with a cutoff wheel might work. At work when we have to remove stainless rivits that is what we at times.

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Tapered carbide burr would knock it out too without an issue.

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I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. smile.png It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to smile.png

Drill slightly larger than the mandrel, head pops off, rest falls out.   Pretty simple.

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Figured out why injectors 2 & 3 aren't working on my truck and cause it to run rough at low and mid rpm ranges....  The god damn things aren't even hooked up.  No fricking wires to them.  I'm actually somewhat impressed now that it runs as well as it does two injectors down.  I've just been thinking they were crapped out and stuck open and had to buy new ones, been to lazy to drop the money on something that just runs around town but now that I know the problem I get to pull the intake off and play electrical fixit man. 

Wow, um, how the hell could you NOT notice that?

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Go slow, good drill bit, 135* split point a normal drill bit will be fine no need for TiNi coatings, cobalt probably isn't needed either.  Cutting fluid wouldn't hurt either.  Keep the drill bit under ~60 surface feet per minute, (4*60)/dia of bit.  Drill bits from most stores suck, Fastenal sucks.  McMaster carr has good stuff, normally from Precision twist drill. 

 

Shoot me a PM some time...

I LOVE Fastenal bits!  I get the Cleveland ones though, not the cheap HSS shit.  Parts Master or something like that, they have awesome cryo bits.  I used to buy those exclusively,  but that was when I wasn't drilling 1" stainless so often.

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I've read a bunch of shit on removing rivets. Need to save the metal I'm taking off. Want to pull the tunnel (part over the track) of my snowmobile and have it powder coated/anodized black. smile.png It's riveted on so I need to yank it to have it done. Since the track and tank will be off I have access to all the rivets, but if it takes too long I won't do it. Limited shop time for me, but I want to smile.png

 

 

Pop rivets?

 

Stainless self piercing, 3/16" ones. Hell on drill bits. Cobalt/Ti or bust I guess. Thought maybe there was a trick smile.png

If you have a steady hand, you can always grind the heads off as well.

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Tapered carbide burr would knock it out too without an issue.

Another good choice. 

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Crown Black for the 1st time tonight........gotta say, FTW!

......just sayin in a drunk state of mind

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Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game.

 

 

 

Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes?

 

 

 

J

 

Why ask a rhetorical question?

 

 

 

Cause some of us are okay. 

 

 

Ryan, are you ever wanting to do an Orioles/Yankees here? You're the only male Yankees fan I would be ok bringing to a game.

Really??? Are the rest of us total assholes?

J

Didn't remeber you're a Yankees fan. wink.png

 

 

 

Good point.

 

 

 

J

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alright, so I switch to the mobile skin a couple days ago because when I would mis spell something and have to delete a couple of letters it would shut down my Opera browser on my phone. the issue I'm having now is that I can't get the desktop skin back. can somebody help me??????

Are you using Firefox on your desktop? If so, clear all the cookies from ssa forum.
I only use my phone. I switched from desktop skin to mobile skin because of the issues I was having with the site and now when I click the button to change the forum skin back to desktop it won't change. I have deleted everything in my Opera browser and still nothing.

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