Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[///M5 2,833]

17 minutes ago, j-roadtatts said:

What did you find?! 

700xx

[///M5 2,833]

Ryan I realize you said not on the street...but I can't even like them after a fresh rebuild.  Any water, or anything and the feel goes to shit.  Could also be the GM controller/anti-lock but either way they are terrible on the truck and the lack of a dust boot is ssheer stupidity.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

14 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

I disagree.  They are the most inconsistent brakes I have ever had.  I've replaced the pistons/seals now 4x.  And yes, for the street the weakness is exposed but they are coming off my truck.  Fucking sick of the nonsense.

 Check out the Power Stops. They seem to be the go to aftermarket replacements everyone is using.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

17 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

700xx

Noice! 

Love me some Honda. 

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 Sold the Holley yesterday for $375!  Packaging it up as we speak. 

 Was definitely bought in true Jared fashion. More confidence than brains. 

[Tirefryr 1,742]

22 minutes ago, ///M5 said:

Ryan I realize you said not on the street...but I can't even like them after a fresh rebuild.  Any water, or anything and the feel goes to shit.  Could also be the GM controller/anti-lock but either way they are terrible on the truck and the lack of a dust boot is ssheer stupidity.

We used them on Late Model roundy-rounds for years.  Both drag cars too, but that's a different beast.   Of course, racing does not translate to street.  Yes, technology trickles down, but on a race car, you're constantly checking parts.  This is not what you want to be doing on street vehicles.  Attrition is a part of racing, not street. 

 

This is my pet peeve when I read or hear about a street car setting some record around a racetrack. That's a meaningless statistic.   I don't base my wrench purchase on how well it functions as a hammer.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

 What do you think of this kit for the mustang Ryan? In regards to doing 2 1/2 inch?  Or any other information you have about the company.

https://pypesexhaust.com/i-12200832-65-70-mustang-2-5-crossmember-back-w-x-pipe-sfm03.html

 My goal is to have more low-end drivability as it’s the wife’s car. With the Holley and the 2 1/2 inch on there now, as soon as you let off the brake it was doing 30. 

 I put the Edelbrock 600 back on. Just curious if you think 2 1/2 will be fine or should I look for a 2 1/4 kit? TIA

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

 The fatty bars on the mustang made it handle like a dream in the corners!! 

I love the fatties.

[///M5 2,833]

55 minutes ago, j-roadtatts said:

 Check out the Power Stops. They seem to be the go to aftermarket replacements everyone is using.

I need full everything if I pull the Wilwoods.  ALl the stock stuff is gone.  Going to do Z06 brakes

[Tirefryr 1,742]

1 hour ago, j-roadtatts said:

 What do you think of this kit for the mustang Ryan? In regards to doing 2 1/2 inch?  Or any other information you have about the company.

https://pypesexhaust.com/i-12200832-65-70-mustang-2-5-crossmember-back-w-x-pipe-sfm03.html

 My goal is to have more low-end drivability as it’s the wife’s car. With the Holley and the 2 1/2 inch on there now, as soon as you let off the brake it was doing 30. 

 I put the Edelbrock 600 back on. Just curious if you think 2 1/2 will be fine or should I look for a 2 1/4 kit? TIA

I'm no particular fan of Pypes, but it's all from word of mouth on Mustang forums. 

2-1/2 is plenty.  I've had a couple 500HP cars with 2.5" pipes with room to spare.

Also, I'd go with an H-pipe over an X.  The X is raspier while the H will be more of a lower tone.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

7 hours ago, Aaron Clinton said:

I love the fatties.

LIES!

[dem beats 1,223]

9 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

 Definitely spoke too soon on my brother coming back to work. Motherfucker worked about a week and then disappeared again on me. 

 Going on about a month of working almost solid and by myself. Tried taking yesterday off but still ended up going in for half a day. 

 Don’t know how much longer the body is going to hold out. Is going to be a three cases of Redbull week.

Brother, I fucking feel you!  7 days are more brutal than I remember. 

 

Especially when it hasn't been attached to $$$$.

[dem beats 1,223]

9 hours ago, j-roadtatts said:

 I’ll tell you where it’s not out...The bar. 

 Perhaps try the grocery store mid afternoon and wear lots of cologne. I get hit on all the time when I go that time a day. All the single ladies getting dinner for the night!

Ha!

The bar is great for crockpot wives!

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

3 hours ago, Tirefryr said:

I'm no particular fan of Pypes, but it's all from word of mouth on Mustang forums. 

2-1/2 is plenty.  I've had a couple 500HP cars with 2.5" pipes with room to spare.

Also, I'd go with an H-pipe over an X.  The X is raspier while the H will be more of a lower tone.

H-pipe it is! 

 Any particular kit you would recommend?  I don’t need stainless as dry as it is where I live, aluminized does just fine.

 The original exhaust on the GT’s was only 2 inch. I would think with the crimped bends 2-1/4”would be about equal to 2”. And more than sufficient for a cruiser eh?

https://www.cjponyparts.com/dual-exhaust-kit-2-1-4-aluminized-small-block-v8-1965-1973/p/EXK7K/

[MKader17 332]

Going to look at trucks tomorrow.

I'm having a hard time taking the 5.0 over the 3.5. With a nice tune you can see so much more HP/TQ gains in the 3.5 over the 5. An 87 octance tune for the 3.5 in hot conditions will outperform a 5.0 93 tune in ideal.

However, I can find a lot better deals on 5.0 trucks and more trucks that would be easily upgraded to Android Auto compatibility. Going to drive both tomorrow (in stock form)

 

 

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I never do stainless. I want my shit to rust out.  I always need a reason to upgrade.  That being said, I've never had one rust out.  We have 28-year-old Flowmasters on my dad's 90 GT and they are still in great shape.  Everyone says aluminized rusts, but I think it's fine if you don't drive year round.

I'd try to stick to 2.5 if you can.  I can not recommend anything either.  Sound is subjective here, but almost all Windsors sound the same, so you can easily search Youtube for Foxbody exhausts and get a rainbow of choices. 

I have read a few bad stories about CJ's lately too, but not sure on the validity.  I'd stick to Summit, Jegs, National Parts Depot, etc.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

8 minutes ago, MKader17 said:

Going to look at trucks tomorrow.

I'm having a hard time taking the 5.0 over the 3.5. With a nice tune you can see so much more HP/TQ gains in the 3.5 over the 5. An 87 octance tune for the 3.5 in hot conditions will outperform a 5.0 93 tune in ideal.

However, I can find a lot better deals on 5.0 trucks and more trucks that would be easily upgraded to Android Auto compatibility. Going to drive both tomorrow (in stock form)

 

 

You can't compare a twin turbo to a NA car.  You just can't.  Those turbos essentially represent additional displacement.  Of course they are going to respond better to tuning. 

 

Let me ask you this;  have you ever owned a booster vehicle?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Don't get me wrong; I'm not stating the Ecoboost is a bad choice, but being a mechanic, I take the simple route.  The 5.0 is simple and simple equals more reliable and cheaper.   If you're really concerned about it, buy a cheaper 5.0 and spend that extra cash on some simple bolt ons, get it tuned, and decimate the 3.5.

 

My 2014 was rated at 412HP.  It had a Boss 302 intake, ridiculously huge throttle body, fenderwell intake, headers, and a tune, and made 482 to the tires.  You're not doing that with the 3.5 without serious money and engine upgrades.  Hell, 6 pounds of boost on the 5.0 will get you a reliable 500 wheel without issue.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I also can see the 87 tune on  boosted engine outperforming the Coyote on 93. If it is,I'd be leery of the tune.  The computer are spot on with timing these days, so lower octane is really going to cost you unless the programmer is cutting it thin.  I've seen them bypass factory retardation, and next thing you know, boom.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

IF you really are concerned about performance, then you want to be in the 6.2, or driving a 6.2 from the General.   As much as I hate to say it, the LS is simple, cheap, reliable, it makes power pretty effortlessly.  It's relatively fuel efficient as well.

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

You da man Ryan!! Your help is much appreciated.

just pulled the trigger on this.

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30570/10002/-1

and 

https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/30651/10002/-1

the wifey will be stoked!

[j-roadtatts 1,129]

Hope to do headers on the xterra sooner than later, but that’s a whole other story. Has 2 cats per side and upstream/downstream O2 sensors. 

[topgun 262]

I'd be leering about owning an second hand higher mileage Ecoboost.  Haven't had to pay for a mechanic bill on one but I'm pretty sure they aren't cheap and I'm betting I can't work on them myself besides the basic parts changing without real money in scan tools.  

[topgun 262]

I know two people with that vintage Ford with the Ecoboost, one bought it new and hasn't had a lick of problems but it doesn't get many miles, the second bought a used one with mileage on it and has had it back in the shop multiple times for various engine problems.  But don't know the specifics and not like that is a very large pool of people.  

[///M5 2,833]

I love boost...but not the Eco.  Just don't trust it long term, but I've lost a motor in a BMW this year and in my Polaris so I am particularly gun shy.

My truck runs great on 93 octane.  91 is ping city.