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Mark LaFountain

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I'm rich bitch!

That could be the most socially conscious statement you have ever made.

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Still waiting for the build sheets. sad.png Should probably assume that means it isn't as expected which would be par for the course. Have texted back and forth though so perhaps it is just busy. Was out and about and has to get back to scan them.

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Still waiting for the build sheets. sad.png Should probably assume that means it isn't as expected which would be par for the course. Have texted back and forth though so perhaps it is just busy. Was out and about and has to get back to scan them.

I'm so depressed about vehicles I'm gonna buy a Malibu. I swear to god, I will do it.

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I just reheated prime rib in the microwave.....

It was surprisingly good. Like really unexpectedly!

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I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company.

Quite the honor.

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Nice Brad!

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Pork tenderloin is in the brine for the next 12 hours then cook at 200 for 4 hours and Bam Candian bacon!!

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Might I add that all Christmas lights are hung and I may need to add more.

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You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

 

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

 

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

 

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

100_4387.jpg

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

LeeSwifttext.jpg

 

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

 

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though. 

 

 

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion ;). The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

 

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

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Seth I wish you luck in your quest to quit smoking.

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DSCF1645_zpsd6077af6.jpg

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

Did you buy a rebuildable one? I have a king tank I can rebuild. I make my coils it's pretty neat. My tank only cost 50$ and I got like 5 feet of canthol flatwound coil for 5$

 

Yes, the Triton tanks are rebuildable. They even offer 5 different coil configuration options if you choose to just replace with factory wound coils. One of the guys on the forum I go to has been building and expressing his thoughts on the coils he is building. Halo suggests a 3.2-3.8 ohm coil for the variable voltage batteries. I opted to go with the 2.8 ohm, and I am glad I did. I have been able to swing the voltage from better than the stock G6 (3 volt) to the point where I can taste all the juices I use burning. It seems to me that my range is pretty strong. I might like to try a 3.2 just to see if I can bring the total wattage down lower and stretch the possibilities from the bottom to the top.

 

I am not sure if I will start winding my own coils just yet. At this point I am fucking thrilled with the VV Triton.

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DSCF1645_zpsd6077af6.jpg

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

Did you buy a rebuildable one? I have a king tank I can rebuild. I make my coils it's pretty neat. My tank only cost 50$ and I got like 5 feet of canthol flatwound coil for 5$

Yes, the Triton tanks are rebuildable. They even offer 5 different coil configuration options if you choose to just replace with factory wound coils. One of the guys on the forum I go to has been building and expressing his thoughts on the coils he is building. Halo suggests a 3.2-3.8 ohm coil for the variable voltage batteries. I opted to go with the 2.8 ohm, and I am glad I did. I have been able to swing the voltage from better than the stock G6 (3 volt) to the point where I can taste all the juices I use burning. It seems to me that my range is pretty strong. I might like to try a 3.2 just to see if I can bring the total wattage down lower and stretch the possibilities from the bottom to the top.

I am not sure if I will start winding my own coils just yet. At this point I am fucking thrilled with the VV Triton.

My coils are typically around 1 ohm lol

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Seth I wish you luck in your quest to quit smoking.

 

 

Thanks, bud! Nearly 2 weeks and almost $200 in savings thus far. Admittedly I have spent about $3-350 to kit myself up, but now that I am near the point where my initial investment is done, I expect to spend roughly $30-45 per month on juices and maintenance. That is a strong savings when you compare it to roughly $400 a month.

 

Plus my health... well over 30 years of smoking anywhere from a pack to 4 packs a day is not good for the old body. I think it is a huge win/win.

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DSCF1645_zpsd6077af6.jpg

Top: Halo Triton with variable voltage battery.

Middle: Halo G6 with mini tank.

Bottom; Halo G6 with standard cartomizer. It is about the same size as a regular 100 cigarette.

The big ass Triton is getting a special dabs globe. It is actually really nice compared to the e-cigs. The flavor is so much more full and unhindered. I was rather surprised, actually. I was surprised to find out how just changing the voltage of the battery (on the Triton) affects the flavor of the vapor. You can turn it up too far, so it takes a little playing, but it is fucking badass.

Told ya youd love it, some juices require you to burn em hotter to get a good cloud out of em. But I love having variable voltage too makes it so much easier to get what you want.

Yeah, I read about how the variable voltage can affect the juices. It seriously does. I like the fact that I can basically affect the temps with the knob instead of changing coils. I am gonna grab a few coils to play with eventually. I just spent ~$250 on juices, tanks, batteries, and carts because of their sale going on, so I am gonna chill for a bit before I start buying coils to swap.

Did you buy a rebuildable one? I have a king tank I can rebuild. I make my coils it's pretty neat. My tank only cost 50$ and I got like 5 feet of canthol flatwound coil for 5$

Yes, the Triton tanks are rebuildable. They even offer 5 different coil configuration options if you choose to just replace with factory wound coils. One of the guys on the forum I go to has been building and expressing his thoughts on the coils he is building. Halo suggests a 3.2-3.8 ohm coil for the variable voltage batteries. I opted to go with the 2.8 ohm, and I am glad I did. I have been able to swing the voltage from better than the stock G6 (3 volt) to the point where I can taste all the juices I use burning. It seems to me that my range is pretty strong. I might like to try a 3.2 just to see if I can bring the total wattage down lower and stretch the possibilities from the bottom to the top.

I am not sure if I will start winding my own coils just yet. At this point I am fucking thrilled with the VV Triton.

My coils are typically around 1 ohm lol

 

 

Holy shit! They can't last long can they? What are your mods and seriously; how long do they last?

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Seth I wish you luck in your quest to quit smoking.

 

 

Thanks, bud! Nearly 2 weeks and almost $200 in savings thus far. Admittedly I have spent about $3-350 to kit myself up, but now that I am near the point where my initial investment is done, I expect to spend roughly $30-45 per month on juices and maintenance. That is a strong savings when you compare it to roughly $400 a month.

 

Plus my health... well over 30 years of smoking anywhere from a pack to 4 packs a day is not good for the old body. I think it is a huge win/win.

:woot:

 

I'm 3 weeks cigarette free now, and it feels pretty good.

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Mine are 1.8 ohm, this one is going on the full three weeks I've had it.

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I have had the nicest fucking beer tonight that I have ever tried.

 

2013-12-04205203_zpsfd9de674.jpg

 

It is very thick, very heavy, sweet, satisfying, filling, and loaded with alcohol. It is Brooklyn Brewery's Black Chocolate Stout.

 

I could seriously give up drinking whiskey for this. At $9 for a 4 pack, it is pricey though. I grabbed up a 4 pack for after work, and went to the store afterwards and bought up the entire remainder of their stock. It is fucking amazing!!!

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Seth I wish you luck in your quest to quit smoking.

 

 

Thanks, bud! Nearly 2 weeks and almost $200 in savings thus far. Admittedly I have spent about $3-350 to kit myself up, but now that I am near the point where my initial investment is done, I expect to spend roughly $30-45 per month on juices and maintenance. That is a strong savings when you compare it to roughly $400 a month.

 

Plus my health... well over 30 years of smoking anywhere from a pack to 4 packs a day is not good for the old body. I think it is a huge win/win.

woot.gif

 

I'm 3 weeks cigarette free now, and it feels pretty good.

 

 

Congrats, brother!

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Mine are 1.8 ohm, this one is going on the full three weeks I've had it.

 

What is your vape and what juices are you using?

 

I have stuck to Halo juices. They are exceptional. I tried a few at the local head shop and could not find any that suited my palate. I am really stuck on Halo's Turkish Tobacco in 24mg and Halo's Tribeca in 18mg. I have a few others steeping right now. FWIW the HX3 by Halo is fucking nasty!!!

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I am Dance Mom of the month at my daughter's dance company.

Quite the honor.

Pics in the tutu?

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Seth I wish you luck in your quest to quit smoking.

 

 

Thanks, bud! Nearly 2 weeks and almost $200 in savings thus far. Admittedly I have spent about $3-350 to kit myself up, but now that I am near the point where my initial investment is done, I expect to spend roughly $30-45 per month on juices and maintenance. That is a strong savings when you compare it to roughly $400 a month.

 

Plus my health... well over 30 years of smoking anywhere from a pack to 4 packs a day is not good for the old body. I think it is a huge win/win.

woot.gif

 

I'm 3 weeks cigarette free now, and it feels pretty good.

 

 

Congrats, brother!

:woot: :woot:

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sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 19:03, said:

Adrian_D, on 04 Dec 2013 - 14:49, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 13:41, said:

swift, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:56, said:

sandt38, on 04 Dec 2013 - 04:12, said:

swift, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:16, said:

W140, on 03 Dec 2013 - 18:11, said:

You had no mechanical problems? Where they known for any major issues Lee?

Not that I was aware of, I did a lot of research before buying. It's funny really, all I did was 2 step colder plugs to spray that much. I have pics I will post when I get home. The viper motor is just a big pushrod motor that is pretty bulletproof. Stock the AF ratio was 10 flat at WOT, on a 125 shot it was still low 12's. They are so conservative

10 flat AF is stunningly rich. So much so that it should melt cats down inside a few weeks. optimum efficiency is 14.7, period.

Not at WOT it isnt. Yes at idle the A/F will fluctuate up around mid high 14's. But under full load that would be WAY lean and damage the motor. Most vehicles will idle lean up in the 14's, no need for fuel with no load.

On a Naurally aspirated motor 13.0 at WOT is Ideal. In a Turbo or SC car then you want to see no higher than say 11.7-11.9 or maybe touch 12.

If you are going to put "period" at the end of the sentence at least give correct info so a newb doesnt listen. If you tell a tuner to make your AF ratio 14.7 you WILL be replacing the motor when massive detonation occurs!!!

here is my old all motor 347 Mustang dyno with a damn near perfect tune

100_4387.jpg

here is a breakdown of it, notice the A/F stays between 13.2-12.8

LeeSwifttext.jpg

I missed WOT, but as someone who spent several years tuning boosted cars I would still venture 10 to be rich. We found better performance without any real short term reliability issues at 12 and better. Of course, most of our tunes were on straight track cars, not street cars looking for long term reliability. Turboed cars like to run on the lean side. Our cars would run a season or 2 and be torn down and gone through. Failures were extremely rare. My GN ran roughly 12.5 on the street at 18 pounds all day long (I did shoot ethanol). At the track it was fattened up a tad and was turned up to 24 pounds. I went through trannys like crazy but never had a motor failure.

Seth, what are your thoughts on water/meth injection? I think I asked before, my only concern is water vapors contributing to increased cylinder pressure. It's probably moot point though.

Depends on the application. The water will separate into hydrogen and oxygen. Oxygen is a requirement for combustion wink.png. The methanol also adds to the benefit. It burns slower, and quite completely in a combustion chamber. Essentially it increases the octane rating by controlling the burn rate. I stress essentially because that is not a literal explanation but it simplifies thing. It allows for a better timing curve and increased boost without fear of pre-ignition. It is a win/win.

You need to be sure it is a quality system. Progressive systems are worth the extra money. A straight shot can created flat spots in acceleration. In some cases if tuned incorrectly it can create a dip in overall top end performance. A good adjustable map is important.

Not that it really matters, but I don't think water contributes either hydrogen or oxygen, just cooling. What's the range of temperatures in a cylinder (generically speaking)?

Edited by ssh

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