Welcome to the IHoP v.2

[S.DeYoung 968]

awesome website

 

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7&products_id=13&zenid=f123711e0161abf94611356b544f68be

[sandt38 448]

Drove a Nissan Leaf yesterday. That is just weird. I mean really fucking odd.

It came in with a misfire and exhaust leak.

....what!?!?

Did you fill their blinker fluid?

 

Muffler bearing repack, actually.

[sandt38 448]

The suspension on a race bike is fully adjustable. So you can tune it to your body with the factory parts.

Seriously. It becomes an extension of you.

An R6 would be annoying in traffic perhaps, but that is subjective. When moving from an R6 to it's little brother you loose; ~40% in horsepower, a huge amount of suspension(that is what you will really miss after you start riding more), style and clout, aftermarket and huge amount of parts, a built chassis vs tube steel humdrum tub, and 6000rpms. You sacrifice a lot.

Bikes are the worst thing to compromise on because you cannot just tune up a commuter and expect it to even hold a candle to a full on sports bike. Of course a good rider(also read lighter rider) can outpace A newb on the track in a slower bike, but this isn't like cars. Geometry and frame make a much much bigger impact.

I can help a lot more if you want. When I was younger I spent a huge part of my life completely emersed in the bike community. Not a lot of track time, but some autocross like runs, for bikes and I has had my bike as my only vehicle so it was my livelihood on top of my toy. Most of my advice is pragmatic but I can help with the technical stuff too, depending on what you need info on. But friends don't let friends buy 'tweener bikes.

 

 

Depends on the suspension. My quad is a race quad with a "fully adjustable" suspension. Spring height, rebound, and compression are all adjustable. But the valving is still terrible. It is supposed to be set up for a 175# rider, but it is still too stiff for my 215#s. The front is actually nice after a ton of playing with it, but the ass end bucks like a motherfucker. If you are hitting whoops you had better be tight with the boots on the engine or you will get tossed over the handlebars. Go too stiff and it will hop and spin in first, and even set soft and low it doesn't get enough dig. On pavement it won't squat enough to grab well either. A good Elka or FOX system will make the ride so much nicer. I am planning on a new shock and linkage this winter.

[///M5 2,833]

The suspension on a race bike is fully adjustable. So you can tune it to your body with the factory parts.

Seriously. It becomes an extension of you.

An R6 would be annoying in traffic perhaps, but that is subjective. When moving from an R6 to it's little brother you loose; ~40% in horsepower, a huge amount of suspension(that is what you will really miss after you start riding more), style and clout, aftermarket and huge amount of parts, a built chassis vs tube steel humdrum tub, and 6000rpms. You sacrifice a lot.

Bikes are the worst thing to compromise on because you cannot just tune up a commuter and expect it to even hold a candle to a full on sports bike. Of course a good rider(also read lighter rider) can outpace A newb on the track in a slower bike, but this isn't like cars. Geometry and frame make a much much bigger impact.

I can help a lot more if you want. When I was younger I spent a huge part of my life completely emersed in the bike community. Not a lot of track time, but some autocross like runs, for bikes and I has had my bike as my only vehicle so it was my livelihood on top of my toy. Most of my advice is pragmatic but I can help with the technical stuff too, depending on what you need info on. But friends don't let friends buy 'tweener bikes.

 

 

Depends on the suspension. My quad is a race quad with a "fully adjustable" suspension. Spring height, rebound, and compression are all adjustable. But the valving is still terrible. It is supposed to be set up for a 175# rider, but it is still too stiff for my 215#s. The front is actually nice after a ton of playing with it, but the ass end bucks like a motherfucker. If you are hitting whoops you had better be tight with the boots on the engine or you will get tossed over the handlebars. Go too stiff and it will hop and spin in first, and even set soft and low it doesn't get enough dig. On pavement it won't squat enough to grab well either. A good Elka or FOX system will make the ride so much nicer. I am planning on a new shock and linkage this winter.

Ha, I had the main orifices nearly doubled in size on the shocks on my sled. Same thing. 16" of shock travel; however, coming off a road approach with 8' of air, an extra 90lbs in gas, my 6'7" frame wearing a tone of clothes, a full tool box and I could manage to compress the shocks about 1/2" with their stock valving. Softened that shit up REAL quick. Still could do 100' triple jumps on it with either no or at least soft bottoming, but the initial few inches now is WAY softer. Actually allows me to click in the ride I want versus running on full soft and crying.

[dem beats 1,223]

The suspension on a race bike is fully adjustable. So you can tune it to your body with the factory parts.

Seriously. It becomes an extension of you.

An R6 would be annoying in traffic perhaps, but that is subjective. When moving from an R6 to it's little brother you loose; ~40% in horsepower, a huge amount of suspension(that is what you will really miss after you start riding more), style and clout, aftermarket and huge amount of parts, a built chassis vs tube steel humdrum tub, and 6000rpms. You sacrifice a lot.

Bikes are the worst thing to compromise on because you cannot just tune up a commuter and expect it to even hold a candle to a full on sports bike. Of course a good rider(also read lighter rider) can outpace A newb on the track in a slower bike, but this isn't like cars. Geometry and frame make a much much bigger impact.

I can help a lot more if you want. When I was younger I spent a huge part of my life completely emersed in the bike community. Not a lot of track time, but some autocross like runs, for bikes and I has had my bike as my only vehicle so it was my livelihood on top of my toy. Most of my advice is pragmatic but I can help with the technical stuff too, depending on what you need info on. But friends don't let friends buy 'tweener bikes.

Depends on the suspension. My quad is a race quad with a "fully adjustable" suspension. Spring height, rebound, and compression are all adjustable. But the valving is still terrible. It is supposed to be set up for a 175# rider, but it is still too stiff for my 215#s. The front is actually nice after a ton of playing with it, but the ass end bucks like a motherfucker. If you are hitting whoops you had better be tight with the boots on the engine or you will get tossed over the handlebars. Go too stiff and it will hop and spin in first, and even set soft and low it doesn't get enough dig. On pavement it won't squat enough to grab well either. A good Elka or FOX system will make the ride so much nicer. I am planning on a new shock and linkage this winter.

You have a great point, but a bike like the R6 will be able to handle most riders. The geometry, like the rake, cannot be changed though.

[dem beats 1,223]

You will also be more likely to get upgraded top end shocks on a race bike.

Fox or ohlins are always made for the R6.

My "old" 954 would love a new shock set up.

Maybe a turbo, longer seat and longer swing arm too. I am less of a twisties man, and want a bit more comfort. The wife might too.

It would be cheeper to just get a hayabusa though.

[dem beats 1,223]

Turbo + bike = scary

[sandt38 448]

 

The suspension on a race bike is fully adjustable. So you can tune it to your body with the factory parts.

Seriously. It becomes an extension of you.

An R6 would be annoying in traffic perhaps, but that is subjective. When moving from an R6 to it's little brother you loose; ~40% in horsepower, a huge amount of suspension(that is what you will really miss after you start riding more), style and clout, aftermarket and huge amount of parts, a built chassis vs tube steel humdrum tub, and 6000rpms. You sacrifice a lot.

Bikes are the worst thing to compromise on because you cannot just tune up a commuter and expect it to even hold a candle to a full on sports bike. Of course a good rider(also read lighter rider) can outpace A newb on the track in a slower bike, but this isn't like cars. Geometry and frame make a much much bigger impact.

I can help a lot more if you want. When I was younger I spent a huge part of my life completely emersed in the bike community. Not a lot of track time, but some autocross like runs, for bikes and I has had my bike as my only vehicle so it was my livelihood on top of my toy. Most of my advice is pragmatic but I can help with the technical stuff too, depending on what you need info on. But friends don't let friends buy 'tweener bikes.

 

 

Depends on the suspension. My quad is a race quad with a "fully adjustable" suspension. Spring height, rebound, and compression are all adjustable. But the valving is still terrible. It is supposed to be set up for a 175# rider, but it is still too stiff for my 215#s. The front is actually nice after a ton of playing with it, but the ass end bucks like a motherfucker. If you are hitting whoops you had better be tight with the boots on the engine or you will get tossed over the handlebars. Go too stiff and it will hop and spin in first, and even set soft and low it doesn't get enough dig. On pavement it won't squat enough to grab well either. A good Elka or FOX system will make the ride so much nicer. I am planning on a new shock and linkage this winter.

 

Ha, I had the main orifices nearly doubled in size on the shocks on my sled. Same thing. 16" of shock travel; however, coming off a road approach with 8' of air, an extra 90lbs in gas, my 6'7" frame wearing a tone of clothes, a full tool box and I could manage to compress the shocks about 1/2" with their stock valving. Softened that shit up REAL quick. Still could do 100' triple jumps on it with either no or at least soft bottoming, but the initial few inches now is WAY softer. Actually allows me to click in the ride I want versus running on full soft and crying.

 

 

I looked at revalves, and I know they are so much nicer than the stock adjustables, but it is still just a 2 way valving adjustment. I like the Elka stage 4s because it is a true 4 way adjustment. FOX Podiums are nice too, but more money for the same adjustability, plus I am forced into buying FOX's linkage for clearance. I like the FOX Evols from what I have read, but I am a bit leery about a springless shock. You can get them used for next to nothing.

[///M5 2,833]

Scared of Evols myself. My walkers are sweet now though.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

PUNY MORTALS! YOU CANNOT STOP TATRA!

 

[Aaron Clinton 2,372]

Those crazy czechs.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Got the bolt out, now to track down a replacement

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

M8 x 20mm LH

 

could be 5/16 x .75

Edited October 8, 2013 by Penguin4x4

[Julian 641]

So I'm interested in getting a bike.. I was wanting to start off with an FZR6, I've been reading a lot and evidently it is a great starter bike. Essentially a detuned R6..

Unless there is a really strong financial reason I would skip anything that isn't an R6.

My first bike was and is a CBR 954. It is nearly perfect.

It all depends on why you want a bike though. If you want to have fun, buy a sports bike. If you want a commuter, buy one. You can make an R6 more commuter friendly but making a commuter bike handle better is a god damn bitch.

Yeah everyone I've spoken to has been for or against a beginner getting a 600cc bike.. I would really prefer an R6 but not sure.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

I've never ridden anything aside from a moped.  I'm getting an R6.

[Godsmack 361]

Nothing like having to take a day off.

J

[Julian 641]

I've never ridden anything aside from a moped.  I'm getting an R6.

yeah I was just at a local dealer and for less than 100 I could be getting a Fz8.... so not sure, but I do prefer the more upright sitting positon.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Found a pack of 2 bolts for a Ryobi saw. Same size bolt, hell even looking at the exploded diagram it looks like the same saw. Probably is

[topgun 262]

All made at the same plant in Taiwan.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Seth, you seen any major problems showing up on the 2011+ Explorers? Sister's been looking at them.

[Tirefryr 1,742]

3 of them in my family.  Flawless so far.

[sandt38 448]

I've never ridden anything aside from a moped.  I'm getting an R6.

yeah I was just at a local dealer and for less than 100 I could be getting a Fz8.... so not sure, but I do prefer the more upright sitting positon.

 

I do too. I went with a +1.5 stem on my quad and the difference was amazing. That is not a huge difference in seating position, but sitting slightly more upright is far less fatiguing.

 

Found a pack of 2 bolts for a Ryobi saw. Same size bolt, hell even looking at the exploded diagram it looks like the same saw. Probably is

 

What kind of saw do you have?

 

Seth, you seen any major problems showing up on the 2011+ Explorers? Sister's been looking at them.

 

What engine? The 4L OHC V6s like to eat timing chains. The V8s are a fucking clusterfuck to work on.

 

Ball joints, transfer case motors, Fuel pump modules, and GEM modules come to mind. Expect the typical DPFE and MAF issues... it is a Ford.

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

Chicago Electric POS 9000

[Penguin4x4 1,761]

The new models don't have 4.0 or V8 options, do they? Thought they changed over to the 3.7 and the EcoBoost engines.