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Kangaroux

Kangaroux's 99 Pathfinder

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I have a build log going on over at caraudio.com but I switch stuff around so much that I hardly ever post up anything anymore. I'll just start a fresh build log on here instead and just give you guys a rundown of what I have done so far.

Vehicle: 1999 Nissan Pathfinder

Subs: 18" Xcon D2

Amps: AQ2200, Concept HP65.4

Speakers: Lanzar OPTI6PM

Headunit: Pioneer MVH-8200

Electrical: Batcap 2k under the hood, C&D 270FR in the back, 2/0 big 3

I need to go through my build log and pull up some pics but as for now I'll just post up pics of what I got done today...

Here is the setup as it sits. I had built the frame for the false floor about a month ago but never got around to actually cutting all the wood and getting it assembled.

xlXeH.jpg

The sub is missing because I sold my HDC3 and am currently waiting for the xcon to arrive

cv5o2.jpg

Gutted and started laying down the first piece

oiH0W.jpg

Made sure the support where I planned to put my battery and amp was was secured down well and also loctited in place.

OGMhl.jpg

Since the frame wasn't built to be convenient (I blame my wheel wells) I whipped out some chalk line to lay out where I needed to secure everything

MRSXy.jpg

Everything screwed in

szR1j.jpg

Level like a mofo wink.png

b9AFl.jpg

I still need to make some trim pieces for the sides just so I can cover up some of the crap under the floor itself, plus I need to make a small battery holder for my C&D since I don't really like the idea of loosely having it under the false floor. I won't be using that same box you saw as that was made for an HDC3 so the specs are a bit off, plus it's too wide for my vehicle (and it's made out of MDF angry2.gif )

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I think this is gonna be the final box design...about 7 cubes tuned to 32hz with 87 in^2 of port. I was going to do a kerf port but I have no place to setup my circular saw to do the kerfs, and doing kerfs with a table saw is just a pain in the ass, so I settled for just a big 45 instead. I want there to be absolutely 0 port noise and also have it be somewhat meter friendly.

196649_4373605588048_1894264113_n.jpg

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jesse you just need to wall it man! lol

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Doing a kerf with a table saw is not very hard, and I would use more port area. So far the false floor is looking good!

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I really like that design. Just finished building my first enclosure over 4 cubes. I swear 11 cubes gross didn't look that big in sketchup.

I agree though a little more port area wouldn't hurt anyone. It isn't bad though. Much better than some that I see with a little 4x5 and 2 15's.

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I was gonna go with 100 in^2 of port (basically making my port 1" wider) but if I go with too much port it will cut off too much of the low end below tuning. So I have 2 options: tune the box lower down to ~30hz then up the port, or keep the box tuned a little higher towards 32-33 and keep the port slightly smaller. I talked with a few design guys just to double check (RAM_Designs, Robin over at BHE, DC creations) and they all agreed going slightly smaller on the port would be my best option. I want to be able to play down to 25hz without unloading too much as well.

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Doing a kerf with a table saw is not very hard, and I would use more port area. So far the false floor is looking good!

I know it's not hard but it'd be much easier for me to just use my circular saw. Also, I don't have any fiberglass resin or anything to put on the back of the kerf to have it harden up, so I wouldn't feel very safe having the kerf with just some glue on it lol.

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Doing a kerf with a table saw is not very hard, and I would use more port area. So far the false floor is looking good!

I know it's not hard but it'd be much easier for me to just use my circular saw. Also, I don't have any fiberglass resin or anything to put on the back of the kerf to have it harden up, so I wouldn't feel very safe having the kerf with just some glue on it lol.

Wood glue works fine. I usually use resin but I have used glue without any issues.

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Doing a kerf with a table saw is not very hard, and I would use more port area. So far the false floor is looking good!

I know it's not hard but it'd be much easier for me to just use my circular saw. Also, I don't have any fiberglass resin or anything to put on the back of the kerf to have it harden up, so I wouldn't feel very safe having the kerf with just some glue on it lol.

Wood glue works fine. I usually use resin but I have used glue without any issues.

I'll think about it then. I'll prob drop a 45 right behind it to help stiffen it up. Maybe do a test kerf on a small piece of scrap just to see how it comes out. A kerf was my original plan but I figured the 45 would be a bit more idiot proof lol

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Doing a kerf with a table saw is not very hard, and I would use more port area. So far the false floor is looking good!

I know it's not hard but it'd be much easier for me to just use my circular saw. Also, I don't have any fiberglass resin or anything to put on the back of the kerf to have it harden up, so I wouldn't feel very safe having the kerf with just some glue on it lol.

Wood glue works fine. I usually use resin but I have used glue without any issues.

A kerf was my original plan but I figured the 45 would be a bit more idiot proof lol

It is, but it sure isn't as pretty. If you put a 45 behind the kerf and use some titebond it won't be going anywhere.

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Design take 2. Added .5" to the port width so now it's ~94 in^2. No more complaints, lol.

NDU4I.png

IYmBs.png

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That's gonna be nice

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The color red absorbs wavelengths over twenty two feet (80hz and below) by upwards of 30%, so your definitely going to want to use neon green instead.

I'm just fucking with ya. :P

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The color red absorbs wavelengths over twenty two feet (80hz and below) by upwards of 30%, so your definitely going to want to use neon green instead.

I'm just pucking with ya. tongue.png

Lol! That works in my favor, I was only gonna use this as a midbass anyways lmao

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looking good :)

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looking good smile.png

Thanks! Now the question is...do I have enough scrap wood here that I will need 1 sheet or two, lol

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Pics of the vehicle/setup as it sits:

mqYm7.jpg

qgC2x.jpg

De6id.jpg

SHFqv.jpg

Once I get the materials for it I'm going to run 2 pieces of threaded rod that go through the little battery cage and attach to the bottom of the false floor. Then I'll take a piece of scrap wood or thin metal or something and run that between the 2 rods so it holds down the battery .

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Design take 2. Added .5" to the port width so now it's ~94 in^2. No more complaints, lol.

NDU4I.png

IYmBs.png

This looks so much better man...

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Design take 2. Added .5" to the port width so now it's ~94 in^2. No more complaints, lol.

NDU4I.png

IYmBs.png

This looks so much better man...

Yep should sound pretty good. Once these paypal funds clear I'll be able to get some wood for the box, woot.

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Did a test on some scrap wood here. First time ever doing a kerf port. Came out pretty good imo.

185527_4385521325934_821395071_n.jpg

419798_4385521485938_1001616846_n.jpg

404047_4385521845947_465882678_n.jpg

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Yeah man, it came out great.

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Wow nice

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Thanks. That was a 3.5" kerf. The one I'm doing for my box is a 6", lol. Gonna be real fun cutting that..

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