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deebo

Getting Box Built

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Someone on another forum is building me a box for 90 shipped and I was wondering if the specs he gave me will be alright? Thanks!!

38" width and 16" height so that your box fits flush with the sides and top of your trunk... The depth comes out to 17"... which makes your net volume 3 cubic feet after driver and port displacements.

your port is 3" wide, 14.4" high (making port area 43.5") and 43" long (this is VERY long but makes your tuning 28, which will sound amazing)

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according to carstereo.com's port calculator, and my math, he's pretty damn close....

so what are u putting in there?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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I am putting 2 12" rlps in there

according to carstereo.com's port calculator, and my math, he's pretty damn close....

so what are u putting in there?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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Personally, I would like a little more volume if I was tuning that low, say 1.75-2 per driver...

But, it works.

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Personally, I would like a little more volume if I was tuning that low, say 1.75-2 per driver...

But, it works.

:+1:

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if you can go larger, go for it, if not we still want to see pix

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I told the guy making the box for me to up the box to 4 cubes. He said he is going to take pictures while he builds it for me so I will share those with all of you.

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Excellent, if you have the space use it :) Look forward to seeing your install.

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Okay

Here are the new specs

Width 38.00

Depth 19.00

Height 16.00

driver displacement 0.36 cubic feet

port displacement 0.76 cubic feet

Port

Width 3

Length 30.5

Height 14.5

43.5 port area

is this better?

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here are some in progress pics. He isnt putting in the speaker terminals though but I have 2 left over from an old box I had. Does it matter where I place the terminals? Is it better to put them on the sides or in the back? Thanks again!

they are at this link

http://www.caraudio.com/forum/showthread.php?t=149034

Edited by deebo

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doesn't matter where the terminals go, though i'd just as soon run wire thru the box with a little sealant to keep the air in....

box is looking solid.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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I thought about running the wires trhough the port but it wont look as nice. I was just thinking of drilling out a hole for both the terminals and sealing it off then screwing them in.

doesn't matter where the terminals go, though i'd just as soon run wire thru the box with a little sealant to keep the air in....

box is looking solid.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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Just drill a hole barely larger and push them through. I like to add some sort of retainer so you can't pull the wire back out. Then seal it up and it looks clean and really works the best as well. It is crazy to me that people spend a ton of money on wire and then have some crappy ass terminal ruining the connection.

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Thanks for the advice.. I will take your word for it and just use the wire and no terminals.

Just drill a hole barely larger and push them through.  I like to add some sort of retainer so you can't pull the wire back out.  Then seal it up and it looks clean and really works the best as well.  It is crazy to me that people spend a ton of money on wire and then have some crappy ass terminal ruining the connection.

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You can either tie the wire on the inside and pull it tight (lazy not my car method), glue a tight rubber grommet on, or use a clamping grommet. It will keep you from pulling it out and disconnecting your sub. The only other trick is just to be sure that you leave enough wire and can route it effectively after it is attached to the box, which of course is all vehicle/install dependent.

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tie a knot in the wire on the inside of the box..not a tight knot, just one large enough to keep one from pulling the wire away from the sub.

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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Thanks for clarifying, I didn't mean tight not but to pull the knot tight up to the hole and maybe snug would be a better word.

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Hey guys

I have a lot of 0 gauge wire laying around but its split into two pieces.. I was wondering if it is bad practice to use a coupling(coupler?) to connect both parts back together? Also since my amp only accepts 4 gauge wire, would I need 2 0/4 gauge distribution blocks for the ground and the power?

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update*

well the box didnt fit in the trunk so I had to cut it down 2 inches. I know sound will suffer a bit but I had to do it if I wanted to even hear my subs. Anyways here it is for now

ef9a7cec.jpg

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which is why trunk cars suck..lol...for boxes that is...

and another reason why when a person is having a box built elsewhere, it's a good thing to measure the trunk opening and/or have the box builder have a similiar car near by to test fit/measure themselves.

i've gone to the point of finding the same vehicle on a car lot, test driving it home and measuring everything. even had a dealership with a ford lightning let me measure the truck right there in their garage. they had just gotten it in and were detailing it. pretty cool of them. but that way i know the box will fit and won't have to be cut down.

but looks good. going to carpet later?

wheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee :slayer:

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I may carpet it later whenever I forget how much of a pain this was lol. I used black truck bedliner spray paint which actually looks pretty good. It doesnt look like spray painted wood where you can see the grain etc, instead it looks like there is a layer of something under the black paint.

The guy who built the box did a great job it was just my fault for giving the max dimensions which technically would fit in the trunk but you gotta be able to get it in there first.

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