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cloud77

Help!! Alternator whine through 4 channel!

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Ok so I've been trying to troubleshoot alternator whine through my 4 channel since I've installed it. Let me first list my equipment.

Car: 2004 Grand Prix GT no monsoon system, no onstar

Headunit: JVC KD-720 (old, bought it back in 2007 or something) U-35 cable converting cd changer to AUX EXT IN is in use. Wired this to cars harness myself as I did not need the expensive PAC harness, as I didnt care if I maintained onboard date/time display or door chimes.

4 channel amp: SSL F400, poopy I know, but this is my first time hooking up a 4 channel so babysteps

6x9s: Infinity Reference 691.3 3-way, Using a pair of stinger bass blockers on them to just get use of frequencies 150 Hz+

Tweeters: straight from china, 2 pairs mounted up front on side of middle dash

Subwoofer: Fi Q pre-2009 driver with post 2009 recone in a sealed enclosure to spec<3

Sub Amp: mmats d300Hc

Rear Battery: Kinetik Hc1800 with newer terminals, stacking the ground for the 4 channel and mmats on the -

Front battery: Duralast platinum, big 3 done as follows: Front battery + to rear battery +, front battery + to alternator + fused, Front battery - to engine ground(which I dont know is a clean ground its on a long screw that controls some sort of evap fluid, a mechanic told me this goes right to my engine block but he didnt know the ins and out of purpose), Front battery - to rear battery -. front battery - to another ground on strut.

Wiring from + to +, and - to - is 1/0 Bullz Car audio. Everything under the hood except for that is KNU or Monster Kable 0.

THERE IS NO POWER WIRE RAN NEXT TO SIGNAL WIRES.

Ok lets get down to it. I get alternator noise, increasing when I touch gas pedal. Recently I've been trying to troubleshoot it without having to use gay ass ground loop isolation tools. LAtely I've been messing with my headunit wiring, because I've determined its not the amp, its the source or ground to the source, or its my wiring all together. So I grounded all 3 sets of my RCAs, wrapped a stripped wire around all 3 pinned down by surrounding screws. I grounded my headunit to the frame but came all the way over to driver side door to do so, no result, then grounded to rear battery, no result.

When I installed I ran a wire from the right pass side fuse box to power on my headunit because there was a lack of ignition wire. So now I took that out and ran it back to the + of my battery to see if it was a powerline problem. no result.

My remote wire hook up: Now I'm questioning myself on this: Remote wire for headunit is split to the switch for my bass spliced before the headunit to make another run for a switch for my 4 channel. My volt meter receives power from the switch for the sub. I don't know if this is right, but I don't see how it could be the cause for my problems. Maybe a relay could be used? I dunno. But I figured I'd mention that.

At first I thought it was my rear battery being grounded to strut and not to the negative of the front battery, so I made that run and...no result. I'm about to buy a new harness and do all the wiring to the headunit over again, as I didn't cap the connections, I used elect tape. but as if right now, I still have the headunit grounded to the left driver side frame screw, and power is going to rear battery, when I made that adjust, it seemed like things got worse. So maybe this tells me its my big 3 connection all along? I dont know I want to rip my own face off thinking about this sometimes...

If there's anything you see or questions to be asked about the hook up please...lets talk about it. Because I'm in despair..I'm lonely. I'm actually glad I didnt spend a lot of money on a good 4 chan amp if I'm having this problem anyway..I get so frustrated it makes me just want to rip everything out that has to do with the 4 channel and just run off my shitty sound ordnance p52 getting power off headunit. sigh...HELP

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