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keetykush

Head Unit Powering Coaxil's

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Does anybody else run their mids and highs with their head unit?

I would get a separate amp but I'd need to upgrade my electrical beforehand.

I have re 6x9s in the back and stock in the front and its really not loud at all....to be honest the stock Charger SXT head unit sounded great but since I switched it the panasonic head unit its really not as audibly sound.

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When you replace your drivers with ones that like power and then run them off a headunit it isn't going to work nicely.

Get an amp. You don't need to upgrade your electrical for a front stage amp. Even a low powered one will be a HUGE improvement.

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Even with the zx750..I get slight dimming, so I'd think if I'd add more I'd experience more of the same. Even the stock highs sound like shit...well in comparison to how nice they sound with the stock head unit, why is this?

I guess my Panasonic head unit just sucks...

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Even with the zx750..I get slight dimming, so I'd think if I'd add more I'd experience more of the same. Even the stock highs sound like shit...well in comparison to how nice they sound with the stock head unit, why is this?

I guess my Panasonic head unit just sucks...

Check your grounds, do the big three, and amp your front stage.

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I did a install in a friends F150 with some MA lower end 75watt rms components ran off head unit. It just doesnt get loud enough to make you happy honestly. Sounds good at low level but turning it up sounds unappealing. Buy a small efficient amp and you will be very happy.

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Even with the zx750..I get slight dimming, so I'd think if I'd add more I'd experience more of the same. Even the stock highs sound like shit...well in comparison to how nice they sound with the stock head unit, why is this?

I guess my Panasonic head unit just sucks...

Dimming is NOT an indicator that you should rely on for determining that you need electrical work. It is a glaring sign that perhaps there is a weakness, but it doesn't mean a voltage problem.

Simple solution anyway. Turn the gain down on your sub a bit. Add front stage amp.

Headunit power is an oxymoron. I'd ALWAYS add an amp to my fronts before even thinking about a sub.

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Well, at the moment I don't have the money to pay for the amp and installation and also I need a new set of 6x9s for the front.

wtf, don't make two threads for the same topic.

You really think I actually took the time to do so, it accidentally did it some how....do you honestly think I would waist my time doing so on purpose...Jesus Christ you come off as such a nice guy, like I said before the attitude makes me not even want to order from the store here again(I know he's not connected to the store, but I rather spend my money on a site where there team doesn't come off as sarcastic). I really don't get the high horse complex, possibly its just an obvious under developed self esteem issue that comes out on the computer.

But besides that, being typical....why do the newer Dodge/Chrysler stock head units...sound so good? Before hand, it was nicely balanced with a nice kick and now it lacks a lot of that balance....in comparison I'd say the stock wins hands down.

Edited by keetykush

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While awaiting the opportunity to get my amps installed I've been forced to listen to my PG RSD and Bravox components on the HU. Quite honestly they're fine and would be plently loud enough for anyone who isn't bitten by this hobby. It's obvious when listening to them that they have a great deal more output to offer and the quality of sound is also limited due to the lack of real power tho. You CAN put a set of speakers in without an amp, they'll work fine, but no where near as good as they can with proper installation and a decent amp to power them with. I would recommend doing so, in steps if necessary, to get the most out of the money you spend. Buy the speakers, install them. Buy some sound deadener, install it. Make sure the install is as good as it can be first, then buy the amp. It may take some time, but you'll be way ahead in the long run.

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A fluctuation in voltage causes the lights to dim, now whether your fluctuation is serious or not, I do not know.

IE: I had a high output alt in my previous vehicle, and the lights would dim from voltage fluctuation 15.5v to 14v. Obviously the larger the change = more dimming.

So as already mentioned, adding grounds, and adding power wire from alt to battery can help. Best thing is to get a dmm (digital multimeter), and actually measure your voltage drop.

Will a comp set work on headunit power? Yes, but you may not be pleased with the results. Don't be surprised if it doesn't sound as good as the stock speakers.

Edited by stefanhinote

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Why do the newer Dodge/Chrysler stock head units...sound so good? Before hand, it was nicely balanced with a nice kick and now it lacks a lot of that balance....in comparison I'd say the stock wins hands down.

It's all designed to work together. The built in power, primary EQing, crossovers, in some cases even time alignment is setup to get more from it, none of it user adjustable tho. It all depends on the company and the vehicle but the little I've read on it leads me to believe that the manufacturers are trying a fair bit harder to have people keep the factory equipment without forcing them to by poor design. Between real improvements and designs that limit aftermarket equipment use, they're doing so and have been for years. But here in the last few years it's actually due to better equipment, design and installation. For example, last year the company I work for sent me out to Cali for some training. The rental car provider upgraded me to a convertible Eclipse for free. It was obvious after listening to it intently for a week that they put a fair amount of processing into the sound and while it wasn't anything I'd ever write home about I could see many people who aren't audio addicts being quite happy with it.

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Believe it or not, but there's a fair amount of people that actually make multiple threads concerning the same stuff.

Perhaps he just didn't notice that yours were exactly the same. :lol:

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This is because manucatures are finally getting qualified companies ie Harmon to set up their vehicles.

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Has anyone ever heard the stock in the Chargers or the 300?

Mine used to sound great, but when I take a ride in my mom's Chrysler..I can't get over how decent it sounds.

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I didn't even turn on the stereo when I test drove my 2011 Challenger. I liked the factory radio on my 2006 Scion xB much better. It had some really usable processing options. I've played around quite a bit and am finally happy with my front stage. Factory head unit to an Audio Control LC2i feeding signal to an Audio Control EQL to a Boston Acoustics GT 1005 5 channel amp pushing 50 watts to an older, not Chinese made MB Quart 6 x 9 component set with tweeters in the dash. Now to upgrade the JL 12w0...

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Absolutely loved the stock radio (Not the option, but base radio) in my 2008 Jeep Patriot...

My 1998 dodge neon on the other hand... forget about it

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This is because manucatures are finally getting qualified companies ie Harmon to set up their vehicles.

They have been doing this for 10 years... What it really comes down to is the amount of money they are spending on NVH, the quieter an interior is, the easier it is to make sound nice.

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I didn't even turn on the stereo when I test drove my 2011 Challenger. I liked the factory radio on my 2006 Scion xB much better. It had some really usable processing options. I've played around quite a bit and am finally happy with my front stage. Factory head unit to an Audio Control LC2i feeding signal to an Audio Control EQL to a Boston Acoustics GT 1005 5 channel amp pushing 50 watts to an older, not Chinese made MB Quart 6 x 9 component set with tweeters in the dash. Now to upgrade the JL 12w0...

Pretty sure those Scion's have a pioneer system stock. And I agree for stock they sound very good.

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This is because manucatures are finally getting qualified companies ie Harmon to set up their vehicles.

They have been doing this for 10 years... What it really comes down to is the amount of money they are spending on NVH, the quieter an interior is, the easier it is to make sound nice.

Err, not quite...depending on your definition of NVH. They all have NVH targets, but they also have cost, safety and economy targets (weight & aero since we are talking about bodies). It really isn't what they spend on NVH but what compromises they've designed into the car for a price point. Modern cars have upwards of 10 different types of steel in them to address the concerns above but most of the goals are the opposite of NVH so they are bandaging shit together to try and make it still sound ok. If NVH were truly budgeted correctly you'd see some ridiculous quiet cars. Of course that also tells you what else got cut off that list if it isn't...

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This is because manucatures are finally getting qualified companies ie Harmon to set up their vehicles.

Pretty sure those Scion's have a pioneer system stock. And I agree for stock they sound very good.

Sort of always been the case, it is only marketing to decide when they label something. Again there is a design criteria based on the audience that a vehicle is marketed to. That is when they choose to use a name, but the same players who make the high end OE car stuff design the shitty OE car stuff.

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Well, I am speaking mainly for Chrysler as that is where I have most of my knowledge... And I know that NVH has been a main priority of theirs.

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What you've heard and the reality are different then. Until this year, NVH work was done completely after something was built. Not designed into and only when a vehicle didn't meet the criteria specified by marketing and engineering for a platform. Of course, recently Chrysler had the nice benefit of learning first hand what doing this engineering up front will do. When they adopted Merc platforms they could focus on their sheetmetal and powertrain integration. They learned it's worthwhile to take NVH up stream, but have just started that this year. Ford & GM utilize Europe for a lot of this and the Japanese companies rely a bit more on faith. This is all first hand as I've been in every automotive NVH lab in North America outside of Hyundai's which somehow something keeps coming up when I come into town. If anyone is going to the Automotive Body Congress or NAFEMS Conference stop in an listen as I am presenting a paper on this topic...that is assuming I can get my team to finish the experimental work for validation.

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I think I'm going to buy a small amp I guess, I really want to have a decent front stage for daily listening...when the sub is pounding, it really drowns it out and I don't notice how bad it really is but I need to work on it. I need a new sub as well, and the thing is I really don't know how to install anything and have to rely on expensive installation cost along with the equipment and I really don't know if now is the time to invest into something, decisions decisions.

Anyone want to recommend a nice low wattage amp to power 2 sets of 6x9s?

I have a p400.4 but I really didn't feel like adding that with zx750 even though the charger has a decent alternator..I rather go a little lighter.

Do any of yall think it would be alright, with out doing the big three, new alt,batts,etc,etc?

Edited by keetykush

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It's a good idea to do the big 3.

Why don't you install it yourself? You learn a lot and save money. The forum is here to help.

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i have no experience and I rather leave it to someone who does know what they're doing...I'm just not that kind of guy, not limited to car audio but just not that kind of do it your self type handy man.

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fullrange amps are not hard on the electrical.

not sure how your other amp is installed. might be as simple as adding a distro block and adding the 4 channel right next to it.

another idea would be add a 2nd run of power wire for the amp. 8 and 4 gauge kits are pretty cheap <50 bucks.

if there isn't any room close to the sub amp you could mount the 4 channel under a seat.

if you want/need to run a smaller size amp look at some of the full range class d's or small class ab's like these from massive audio http://www.sonicelectronix.com/cat_m545_i25_massive-audio-4-channel-amplifiers.html

perhaps others would disagree but another way to simplify the process would be to run the speaker wire up to the door jam of each door and tap the speaker wire there. imo stock speaker wire should be ok for a short distance. saves tons time of wiring, removing door panels, etc.

i've seen some installs where people just run the speaker wire up to the headunit and use the factory wire to run to the doors. not sure ghetto rig things that much in my own car haha.

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