Door speaker location opinions

[swift 501]

I will have to make some door panels since the Crescendo 8's wont fit in the stock locations without the factory door panels blocking half the speaker. So I think panels are the best choice here. I will probably do them in 3/4 MDF and flush mount them and cover in black vinyl to match truck and box. I was going to do 6's also in doors but dont have room unless I really get into the storage areas of the stock panels which I dont really want to do.

Should I do the FT1's flush mounted in door panels too or try my hand at fiber glassing some pillar pods in each corner. Will they be loud enough in doors? I hate to make a even bigger blind spot in the corner in the pillar, which in a lifted 250 is already kinda bad.

Here are a couple examples and what the stock panels are like. Sorry for the shitty pics

Both mounted in doors

Tweeter up on pillar

I plan on using the HPF on the alpine amp to cutoff the mids at about 80hz and use a lpf blocker to cut off above 4000k, Then use bass blockers to cut off below 4000hz for the FT1's. run them all off individual channels. gain down much lower on the tweeters....

Edited June 19, 2012 by swift

[///M5 2,833]

As far from your ear as possible and as up front as possible. Can you tackle the pocket?

[Tirefryr 1,742]

Is that a SuperDuty?

[Impious 1,476]

As far from your ear as possible and as up front as possible. Can you tackle the pocket?

Agreed.

Are kickpanels out of the question?

Also.....good lucking running an 8" driver up to 4khz. You will want them to be as on-axis as physically possible otherwise the top end is going to drop off like crazy. That's ignoring the break up nodes and other issues you are going to run into running that large of a driver up that high.

[swift 501]

M5.... Not sure what you mean about the pocket?

And yeah it's a Superduty

[audio-neon 34]

M5 is referring to mounting the speaker lower, where the storage pocket is...

The further you get the speaker from your ears, the better the stage will localize towards the center. Soundwaves travel at a set speed, and because you sit closer to one speaker than the other, it has a tendency to pull the soundstage to the side you are sitting on because your brain processes it before the sound on the opposite side. In other words, if the drivers speaker was 2 feet away and the passengers was 6 feet away, you would hear the left side 3 x faster than the passenger.. but if you were able to move the speaker down another foot, than it would only change the location on the passenger side by a couple inches. This would normalize the ratio and move the sound stage towards the middle.

Time alignment is the only help you will get electronically, otherwise it all has to be done in the install.

[swift 501]

Well, kicks are not out of the question. Nothing is really. I want the best sound as possible with being able to get loud enough to still hang with the two sp4 18's. I want to be able to really impress in a demo but sound clean as hell during my all day riding in the truck I do.

I have these Rockford T2 6.5 components in now. I thought of using the 6.5's for more the mid range and I could cut the 8's off lower? But I was under the impression the Crescendo 8's were more of "midrange" instead of "mid bass". It also says the Ft1's like it 4000+,

I guess I can cut into the pockets if I have too. But then I will be making more of sorta door enclosures instead of panels. I will deaden each door and use a rubber gasket to seal the panel to door. I really need to think this out. A couple beers and I could really fuck up some shit.... lmao

Any suggestions?

[///M5 2,833]

Yep, use an 8, just not to 4kHz. You don't need a supertweeter with that mid, something that plays lower but gives up sensitivity will be fine.

[swift 501]

Well, I have already ordered the super tweeters and would like to try them. Maybe I will regret it but I have always had a preference of having loud tweeters. So the question would be... on axis or off axis? Would it be smarter to do kicks on axis for both the 8's and tweeters and still run my components up top? I thought panels were my best bet for both but I dont want to sound like ass.

What should I cut the 8's and tweeters off at? The site says 2500+ for the tweeters and 76-5100hz for the 8's.

[///M5 2,833]

Sell the tweets. Seriously. Terrible match for those mids IMO.

Perhaps you have t/s parameters. Without it's hard to tell. Normally a super tweeter could "keep up" with 8 or so mids....so unless you have 8 it makes no sense. You are giving up frequency response for output you cannot use.

Supertweets are also notorious for blatantly lying about their frequency response. Both in the actual curve and their capability to play low. Pretty much ALL of them can't play below 4500Hz. 4500Hz on an 8" mid will sound terrible. There are tons of tweeters that WILL play low enough to blend, but none of them will have the sensitivity of the super tweeter and considering your mids don't you surely don't need it.

Again, mounting locations generically speaking. As far from you as possible and as equidistant. Having both the mid & tweet in the "same" location is also helpful, but if you are looking for stage height then it also means raising your drivers up. Hard to be specific as I am first very dubious with your driver choice and second if you do (please don't) decide to install those drivers the tweeter is rather large and will seriously limit the response. Also if you do, you have no choice but to try to get the 8's on axis otherwise right in the part of the frequency spectra where most music is you will have a horseshit response.

Sorry to paint such a non-pretty picture, but it's flat out true. I seriously hate the morons at SMD/FLSPL promoting this an option as none of them know at all what they are talking about.

There are applications for super tweeters, just not at all in your install.

[///M5 2,833]

Oh, rule #1 for buying separate components. If there are no t/s parameters they are hiding something and you should run far away.

....and part of the reason for all my clarification is to help you as well as anyone else who searches on the topic.

[swift 501]

Well shit.....................

2 sets of 6.5 components and just make this simple?...lol

Kicks are out of the question because it will interfere with my park break which I have to have. Now I need to rethink it all, I had thought I had this halfway figured out.

Thanks

[Quentin Jarrell 671]

Before you start hacking away on that door panel. Hook one of those tweeters up temperarely and set in the location where you might want it

The are called super tweeters for a reason, IMO a compression tweeter should never be installed in a vehicle for daily listening.

[Impious 1,476]

But I was under the impression the Crescendo 8's were more of "midrange" instead of "mid bass".

There are trade-offs to high efficiency "pro audio" drivers; by designing the driver to have high efficiency, the low frequency response from the driver will suffer. It's a fact of physics, no way around it. By saying it's more of a "midrange" instead of a midbass, what they really mean is that it doesn't play very low with any authority due to the trade-off of the high efficiency design. They don't necessarily mean it's going to perform great up to 4hz.

There are some things you can't design out of a driver. One is the loss of low frequency extension as sensitivity increases. Another factor that can't be designed out of a driver is beaming as it's simply based on the diameter of the driver in relation to the wavelength of sound at certain frequencies. This is a problem you are going to run into trying to run an 8" driver that high. There are some other considerations to the behavior of the driver due to it's size, but those two are certainties.

I realize you've decided against the 8's, but thought I would give you a little more insight as to why it wasn't a great idea.