How to check authenticity?

[SQ_Bronco 0]

So against my better judgement I bought a used US-AMPS DE-3000 off of ebay. The seller had over 200 positive feedbacks and no negs, and the price was too good to pass up; and the seller was NOT the guy-who-might-be-milo in the thread below.

When I got it and hooked it up, it belched white smoke before I even put a load on it. One of the capacitors inside actually caught on fire, without blowing the fuse I was using to protect the amp, which was a first for me.

Anyway, is there any easy way to look at the components used and verify that it was an original US-amps product? It has obviously been repaired once at least because the caps don't all match, thermal goo was applied very carelessly, and some of the mosfets were obviously hand-soldered, but most of them look clean. Are there any traits that just scream "milo amp"? I'm thinking brand of wire used internally, or maybe capacitor or resistor brand or thermal rating (the big ones are all 85c, which surprised me, I would have guessed 105c) etc.

Thanks for any help...

[Eldorado 0]

look under the PCB, if it looks like someone put a crap load of solder on there then it was probably repaired.

Could be by milo could be by another company

[SQ_Bronco 0]

look under the PCB, if it looks like someone put a crap load of solder on there then it was probably repaired.

Could be by milo could be by another company

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, i'm pretty sure it has been repaired, unless US-AMPs QC was just horrible out the door. I guess what I am asking is, if it is an original US-AMPS amp I'm going to try to get it fixed by them, or by TIPs or whoever, and suck up what it costs, because I really did get a good deal on the amp. If it is a milo amp I'm going to get my money back from the seller and try to find another one elsewhere... I'm kind of hesitant to take the thing apart if I'm going to send it back.

[Renegadesrun 0]

look under the PCB, if it looks like someone put a crap load of solder on there then it was probably repaired.

Could be by milo could be by another company

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Yeah, i'm pretty sure it has been repaired, unless US-AMPs QC was just horrible out the door. I guess what I am asking is, if it is an original US-AMPS amp I'm going to try to get it fixed by them, or by TIPs or whoever, and suck up what it costs, because I really did get a good deal on the amp. If it is a milo amp I'm going to get my money back from the seller and try to find another one elsewhere... I'm kind of hesitant to take the thing apart if I'm going to send it back.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Who was the seller?

(i have a guess)

Edited March 4, 2006 by Renegadesrun

[flakko 1]

well it aint chassis_inc no idea to tell you the truth haha

[flakko 1]

^^^^ is that good or bad? haha i cant tell from your response

[flakko 1]

OH you had a bad feeling oh... okay ill stop.... long day today.

[SQ_Bronco 0]

I talked to him about the amp.  I had a BAD feeling, as stated above.  I obviously did not buy it.

Well, congratulations on your good judgement And I appreciate the fact that you didn't run the price up on it... lol. My bid was for almost twice what the auction ended at, so I got really really lucky imho even though I kinda got screwed.

[Renegadesrun 0]

Was me? She would be straight on her way to TIPS on Monday.

[SQ_Bronco 0]

Was me?  She would be straight on her way to TIPS on Monday.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

lol, I put a second set of eyes on it tonight and we figured out what I did wrong- it was almost certainly user error on my part that destroyed it. Aaargh. It's been a long, long time since i did something that stupid.

The good news is that it will be easy to fix.

The original purpose of the thread is still valid, however- if anyone has an amp that they are sure is a milo-made amp, any information about how to discriminate between it and a factory amp would be appreciated.

Also, if a mod could remove the bad stuff said about the seller it would be good. he fulfilled his part of the deal and I don't want to see his reputation damaged because I was an idiot.

Edited March 5, 2006 by SQ_Bronco

[Renegadesrun 0]

lol self pwnt.

[flakko 1]

also look for an ID number ususally in sticker paper...if the id number is glossy, then its a milo