* Trevor's 2010 Audi A4 Trunk Build. Sundown. Fi. *

[helotr3vor 6]

Started laying some wire last night. Got the (+) run for the amp layed down. I ordered 5ft and it took every single inch but I think it is going to be perfect. If not I got extra wire laying around but I wanted it to be all red. Still have the negative then laying the speaker wire down but I was having trouble with me negative on the battery. The nut to loosen up the battery terminal doesnt seem to come off all the way. I almost forced it off but got to sketched out cause it felt like I was going to snap it. I should be getting an answer from the Audi forums on what to do on the matter shortly. The fuse holder has some heavy duty mounting tape under it and is also zip tied to the wire thats held on the ground. That thing is in there real solid. I dont have the fuse in so dont worry about getting grounded everything fine . I'd like to thank knu for sending me the correct fuse when I fucked up the order.

[salgutierrez 0]

cool dude, i was going to do something with mine, but instead realized that i do need the trunk space, going for a shallow woofer instead, not as loud .

good luck with ur build, waiting for more updates lol

o yeah, i also like the a4 lights, they are better than the a5s, didnt get this option on mine and they are pricey for aftermarkets and oem is ridiculous lol

[helotr3vor 6]

cool dude, i was going to do something with mine, but instead realized that i do need the trunk space, going for a shallow woofer instead, not as loud .

good luck with ur build, waiting for more updates lol

o yeah, i also like the a4 lights, they are better than the a5s, didnt get this option on mine and they are pricey for aftermarkets and oem is ridiculous lol

Yeah I love it so far and have hardly got to drove it. Should be getting my license back very soon . And eventually i'll spend some bucks and get the xenon lights those things are pure sex. Glad to have you!

[helotr3vor 6]

redone the battery (-) to ground with a new nut and bolt and flat ring terminals.

I came, I saw, and I conquered.

Just to give you an idea

I used a different ring terminal and cut the side instead to fit better

New nut and bolt after an hour of removing the stripped stock one. This made my hands bleed quite a lot.

By the way it is a thousand times easier to remove if you unhook everything and use a table vice to hold the square head. I had to take it to a local ACE cause I got rid of my old table vice thinking I'd never need it....

Everything fits real nicely now. Got the nut on there real tight with everything nice and flat. If your ring terminal doesn't fit, just trim it down with some sheer cutters.

[16K 159]

glad you got your negative figured out

[helotr3vor 6]

glad you got your negative figured out

Man it was actually quite a battle. Really wish I replaced the nut and bolt the first time I took it off instead of forcing it back on and making it twice as tough. Wasn't thinking there... I think that is all im going to do for the big 3 though. The stock wire is 2ga as well so I should be just fine. Going to lay all the speaker wire and get the lc2i mostly plugged up tomorrow after my class... but for now I gotta get back to studying calculus

[helotr3vor 6]

Just got all the wiring laid down yesterday and reversed the stock amp. The LC2i is wired and the GTO is working. I ran a run for remote in anyways just in case. All the wire is ran along the factory wire with many zip ties. Everything has fit perfectly so far. I disconnected the sub the factory sub to hook everything correctly to the LC2i. Pretty sure I wont need to take the panels off again. Think the best way to mount the amp on the stock amp mount would be to used a block of wood like a baffle. I could cover it with stretchy black carpet I got laying around. Cant get that done till my SAX-1200D get here. The only wire missing is the amp ground for obvious reasons.

Silver/Black = RCA

Brown/Yellow = Factory sub (-)

White/Yellow = Factory sub (+)

Copper = LC2i Power (+/-)

Silver = Remote in

Blue = Remote out

Red = Amp power (+)

Also laid the speaker wire for the sub but forgot to take a good picture of it. Its larger silver/black knu 12ga.

(sorry for the bad pictures)

[16K 159]

looks like fun

[helotr3vor 6]

My SAX-1200D came in today! Was a little nervous at first cause ive never purchased referbed but pretty happy with what I got so far. There was only 2 small scratches that were easily hidden with a black sharpie. Going to be able to get 90% of the build complete now with the amp in. Either going to work on the mount tonight or this weekend. Take a look..

[jokers10 19]

Awesome work Trevor. I have all my pictures ready for my build log, but I need to finish my amp rack, and fit the remote gain in a panel in my dash.

I have had the time to play around with mine now, and holy crap it hits. All I have to do though is turn it down a bit, and it sounds absolutely wonderful. By far the best sounding vehicle I have done so far. I can't wait to replace the factory amp for my door components.

[helotr3vor 6]

Awesome work Trevor. I have all my pictures ready for my build log, but I need to finish my amp rack, and fit the remote gain in a panel in my dash.

I have had the time to play around with mine now, and holy crap it hits. All I have to do though is turn it down a bit, and it sounds absolutely wonderful. By far the best sounding vehicle I have done so far. I can't wait to replace the factory amp for my door components.

Nice man glad you like it. My amp rack is actually too easy that its tripping me out. I literally just cut 2 sides out of a spare shelf I had lying around in the garage. It 3/4in so its actually perfect. Then I'm going to wrap it in some extra black stretchy carpet I had lying around and "voila." I can just screw my amp flat on it and the factory amp/mount on the back side. I got pretty lucky that the 1200D is the absolute perfect size for my car's factory amp mount.

[hondakilla98 29]

This is looking like a very clean and well planned install. Nice work.

[helotr3vor 6]

Thanks honda

Test ran the 1/0ga to 4ga input adapters and they were a tad too big. Filed down the edges a tinny bit and fits nicely now. They are very secure when tightened so I dont think they will ever touch but do you think I should wrap them in electrical tape or let the chrome shine?

[nem 2,019]

My SAX-1200D came in today! Was a little nervous at first cause ive never purchased referbed but pretty happy with what I got so far. There was only 2 small scratches that were easily hidden with a black sharpie. Going to be able to get 90% of the build complete now with the amp in. Either going to work on the mount tonight or this weekend. Take a look..

Both of my sundowns are refurbs and they work awesome! You have nothing to worry about, nice work!

[helotr3vor 6]

Ran into my first speed bump. Finally got everything to fit nicely but I have one issue. The amp sits low to the floor and leaves me with no room for the adapters and it would even be tough putting the power and negative 1/0 in directly with shaving. What do you think I should do? I can only get about another inch clearance for the bottom if I screw the amp more up and to the right of the rack. I cant use the power and ground at the top because the red power line is as long as it will go. I would have to run a new line if I wanted to do that, which I do have extra wire, it will just be black. Hmm... I got some thinking to do... any opinions?

[16K 159]

wrap those power and ground adapter pieces in electrical tape...

[helotr3vor 6]

wrap those power and ground adapter pieces in electrical tape...

Don't think im going to be able to use the stinger adapters they are just too long. I think the best way might be to either use a distro block right before cuz I think I can fit 4ga in there, or have some adapters build by project db that would fit. I just sent him a pm so hope I can get this figured out soon before the sub gets here.

[hondakilla98 29]

You could have toolmaker make you some 90 degree reducers.

[jokers10 19]

You could have toolmaker make you some 90 degree reducers.

That was going to be my suggestion as well.

[helotr3vor 6]

You could have toolmaker make you some 90 degree reducers.

That was going to be my suggestion as well.

Yeah I think I'm going to go with this. I was told toolmaker isn't taking orders atm so I hit up project db with a message.

[CHRIS 323 12]

redone the battery (-) to ground with a new nut and bolt and flat ring terminals.

I came, I saw, and I conquered.

Just to give you an idea

I used a different ring terminal and cut the side instead to fit better

New nut and bolt after an hour of removing the stripped stock one. This made my hands bleed quite a lot.

By the way it is a thousand times easier to remove if you unhook everything and use a table vice to hold the square head. I had to take it to a local ACE cause I got rid of my old table vice thinking I'd never need it....

Everything fits real nicely now. Got the nut on there real tight with everything nice and flat. If your ring terminal doesn't fit, just trim it down with some sheer cutters.

are you thinking of replacing the stock battery ???

[helotr3vor 6]

Not until way later when I upgrade the speakers and get an ms-8 or something. I'm sure it would be fine I don't crank it up to often and usually when I do its for like one song. Obviously if I run into problems though I would have to upgrade it.

[CHRIS 323 12]

Not until way later when I upgrade the speakers and get an ms-8 or something. I'm sure it would be fine I don't crank it up to often and usually when I do its for like one song. Obviously if I run into problems though I would have to upgrade it.

damn now imagine running a 0 gauge wire from the ALT in the front and do you have easy access to the ALT cause in some cars they hidden in hard to get places

[helotr3vor 6]

Not until way later when I upgrade the speakers and get an ms-8 or something. I'm sure it would be fine I don't crank it up to often and usually when I do its for like one song. Obviously if I run into problems though I would have to upgrade it.

damn now imagine running a 0 gauge wire from the ALT in the front and do you have easy access to the ALT cause in some cars they hidden in hard to get places

Yeah it would be a huge job. The stock wire is 2ga so its not worth it to me. I don't think I would even be able to get to the alt the positive input is in the back and like inside the engine. There is a picture of it somewhere I think.

[helotr3vor 6]

So while I wait to hear from project db and toolmaker here is what I got so far. I had to get some larger screws for the factory amp to be more secure. I also drilled a hole in the amp bracing to get more strength on the left side. I also got some spacers I can use that are about 1/4in tall. I can put these under the sundown amp to get a tiny bit more room but not sure if I should yet. Only got an inch of room without them. Think im going to go with 90 degree reducers if they will fit the amp and are small enough.