SAX-1200D in A4 B8 Help!

[helotr3vor 6]

Im getting ready to install my new system soon but I ran into a couple problems/questions. I am going to be running a Fi Q 12d2 parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. Im going to be adding this to my stock setup in my car. I have a 2010 Audi A4 without the B&O system (it has the basic system). Im going to have a ported box in the trunk.

My main question is... What is the optimal way for routing the Sundown's RCA's back to the head unit without problems?

I've seen people in previous installs on the Audi forums that simply disconnect the stock sub, then splice the wires, and add a converter to female RCA. They plug the new(sub) amp's RCA's to that which routes it back to the stock amplifier and back to the head unit. This is probably the easiest(laziest) way to do the install but I was wondering if this will give me my full output. I wasn't to sure on wiring a powerfull amp to a less powerfull stock amp for the head unit to read proper signals. Ive seen people use this line output converter to route those RCA's.

http://pac-audio.com/productDetails.aspx?ProductId=175&CategoryID=28

Second question is do you recommend I do the Big 3 for this set up? I already have 10 ft of Stinger Hyperflex 1/0gauge wire.

Thanks for the help

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask

[lithium 358]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

[helotr3vor 6]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

[StreetLegal 119]

Im getting ready to install my new system soon but I ran into a couple problems/questions. I am going to be running a Fi Q 12d2 parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. Im going to be adding this to my stock setup in my car. I have a 2010 Audi A4 without the B&O system (it has the basic system). Im going to have a ported box in the trunk.

My main question is... What is the optimal way for routing the Sundown's RCA's back to the head unit without problems?

I've seen people in previous installs on the Audi forums that simply disconnect the stock sub, then splice the wires, and add a converter to female RCA. They plug the new(sub) amp's RCA's to that which routes it back to the stock amplifier and back to the head unit. This is probably the easiest(laziest) way to do the install but I was wondering if this will give me my full output. I wasn't to sure on wiring a powerfull amp to a less powerfull stock amp for the head unit to read proper signals. Ive seen people use this line output converter to route those RCA's.

http://pac-audio.com...5&CategoryID=28

Second question is do you recommend I do the Big 3 for this set up? I already have 10 ft of Stinger Hyperflex 1/0gauge wire.

Thanks for the help

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask

They splice the rear output wires from the head unit (which is the rear input to your stock amp), and connect it to the loc inputs, then connects the rca lines to the loc output, which goes straight to the new amp.

[helotr3vor 6]

Im getting ready to install my new system soon but I ran into a couple problems/questions. I am going to be running a Fi Q 12d2 parallel to a Sundown SAX-1200D. Im going to be adding this to my stock setup in my car. I have a 2010 Audi A4 without the B&O system (it has the basic system). Im going to have a ported box in the trunk.

My main question is... What is the optimal way for routing the Sundown's RCA's back to the head unit without problems?

I've seen people in previous installs on the Audi forums that simply disconnect the stock sub, then splice the wires, and add a converter to female RCA. They plug the new(sub) amp's RCA's to that which routes it back to the stock amplifier and back to the head unit. This is probably the easiest(laziest) way to do the install but I was wondering if this will give me my full output. I wasn't to sure on wiring a powerfull amp to a less powerfull stock amp for the head unit to read proper signals. Ive seen people use this line output converter to route those RCA's.

http://pac-audio.com...5&CategoryID=28

Second question is do you recommend I do the Big 3 for this set up? I already have 10 ft of Stinger Hyperflex 1/0gauge wire.

Thanks for the help

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask

They splice the rear output wires from the head unit (which is the rear input to your stock amp), and connect it to the loc inputs, then connects the rca lines to the loc output, which goes straight to the new amp.

This is pretty clear thank you. Your talking about wiring the new amp strait to the head unit correct? Do you know if this works well for newer Audi's?

[StreetLegal 119]

Yes, wiring the new amp straight to the head unit.

I am not familiar with your head unit, specifically the function it may or may not have to control your stock sub and/or your rear speakers, hence I cannot tell how well it would work, it all depends on the functions and control of your head unit.

Ideally you would want to tap into a full range unfiltered signal comming from the head unit going to your loc then to your new amp.

[jokers10 19]

Post a pic of your stock radio front face. I want to see if it is worth keeping. And why so many topics. You could have just asked about the line converter here again.

p.s. No progress on my amp install in the Jetta over the weekend. Gotta get the house on the market.

[helotr3vor 6]

Yes, wiring the new amp straight to the head unit.

I am not familiar with your head unit, specifically the function it may or may not have to control your stock sub and/or your rear speakers, hence I cannot tell how well it would work, it all depends on the functions and control of your head unit.

Ideally you would want to tap into a full range unfiltered signal comming from the head unit going to your loc then to your new amp.

This is what a member said on the Audi forums for my specific car.

"I believe your HU and steering wheel controls (vol/mute etc) are all controlled through the factory amp so in bypassing the factory amp you would loose control of your new sub/amp and it will not function properly.

I don't think you'll have any problems taking the signal from the factory amp output."

[helotr3vor 6]

Post a pic of your stock radio front face. I want to see if it is worth keeping. And why so many topics. You could have just asked about the line converter here again.

p.s. No progress on my amp install in the Jetta over the weekend. Gotta get the house on the market.

Ill post one in a minute. imo its definitely worth keeping. I got my back cabin damplified yesterday still have 2 sheets left for the trunk hood.

[helotr3vor 6]

[jokers10 19]

Yeah, that is a weird shaped stock radio. It would look silly to add something aftermarket. If you end up going for the SQ route in the future you could look towards getting an OEM integration product like the Audison Bit series or the RF 360.3.

[helotr3vor 6]

Yeah, that is a weird shaped stock radio. It would look silly to add something aftermarket. If you end up going for the SQ route in the future you could look towards getting an OEM integration product like the Audison Bit series or the RF 360.3.

Yeah I was probably going to upgrade later to the JBL ms-8. But thats in the future because it's going to cost as much as the sub and amp.

[lithium 358]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

the big three in your case would be.

1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire)

2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire)

3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay)

[helotr3vor 6]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

the big three in your case would be.

1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire)

2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire)

3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay)

2 and 3 make me nervous cause I dont know exactly where and which wire it is. I might wait to see if I get any voltage drop before I do the big 3. I would need more 1/0gauge too. Only have 10 ft of it and a run from the hood to the battery would add another 10.

[lithium 358]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

the big three in your case would be.

1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire)

2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire)

3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay)

2 and 3 make me nervous cause I dont know exactly where and which wire it is. I might wait to see if I get any voltage drop before I do the big 3. I would need more 1/0gauge too. Only have 10 ft of it and a run from the hood to the battery would add another 10.

try 1 and see how the bad the voltage drop is. depending on the type of music you listen too and the quality of stock wire, you might be fine.

you dont need to replace the oem wire. just do your own run. in fact, i would recommend you leave the stock wire.

[helotr3vor 6]

im not familar with how the stock headunit works. Optimally, you would want to tap into a fullrange, unfiltered signal.

definitely do the big three!

The only thing is the battery is in the trunk. The hood is very confusing and I dont know exactly where my routes would go without examples/explanation.

the big three in your case would be.

1 battery to chassis ground (you should see the stock battery ground, upgrade the wire)

2 alternator pos to battery pos (run from engine bay to battery in the rear, follow the stock wire)

3 chassis ground to engine block ground (this would be in the engine bay)

2 and 3 make me nervous cause I dont know exactly where and which wire it is. I might wait to see if I get any voltage drop before I do the big 3. I would need more 1/0gauge too. Only have 10 ft of it and a run from the hood to the battery would add another 10.

try 1 and see how the bad the voltage drop is. depending on the type of music you listen too and the quality of stock wire, you might be fine.

you dont need to replace the oem wire. just do your own run. in fact, i would recommend you leave the stock wire.

Yeah I dont really want to mess with any stock wire. Ive never worked on Audi and would be mad if I screwed something up. I saw in the owners manual that you can really mess up some functions if you tamper with the battery and such.

Off topic but I just made the build log.