opinions on this comp set?

[Curtis96olds 1]

for about 2 years now i have been running a set of ID ctx65cs components off a MB quart dsc4125 which does 125x4 @4ohms and 250x4 @ 2ohms, and i liked it, but i blew the drivers side mid coming home from work the other day, and i figure now is a good time to upgrade.

what do you guys thing about this package deal?http://www.wooferset...r-speakers.aspxseeing as how i want to get some rear fill speakers anyway, seems like a good deal to me, any input on those components?

im assuming that the rms rating that they have listed is just for the front component set that comes with it, because if you go to the component speakers themselveshttp://www.wooferset...t-speakers.aspx, it lists them as 160 watts rms. so would that be 160 watts per side or 160 watts for both sides?

[Curtis96olds 1]

bump

[KyleBrown 121]

160 total. I ran 90 rms per side to my 626 set and the xover would over heat after about 10min full tilt. CDT makes really clean sounding comps, not loud.

[ricksi30 923]

CDT used to make great quality components. They recently shipped off to China and quality/reliability has suffered.

[Curtis96olds 1]

so, if i gave them components 125 watts per side, they might not last long? i push my speakers pretty hard, so i dont want something that cant take the power, i need beefy components that can take the abuse and still sound good (i know everyone has there opinion of sounding good, but to me the ID CTX's sounded good if that helps at all)

how about this set http://www.woofersetc.com/p-10038-cvl6-kn-cadence-65-120w-rms-2-way-component-speaker-system.aspx ive ran the old cadence cvl-5k components a while ago and liked them, but these seem miles better

couple factors lead me to belive these could get loud

2" voice coil, could probably take more power then 120 watts per side

3ohm, will get to see more power then a 4ohm component set would

94db sensitivity (i went to the cadence website to confirm that one) thats the factor that makes me think that these should get louder then most other component sets ive looked at off the same power.

Edited March 15, 2012 by curt96olds

[Curtis96olds 1]

bump

really interested to see what you guys have to say about that cadence component set, seems like it has exactly what im looking for, but id like to hear what you guys have to say about it before i make my purchase.

[altoncustomtech 773]

Sucks to hear about the ID's failing on you. Some of those Cadence components have been on my radar for a long time, I've just not had the opportunity to be able to purchase any. If you end up giving them a try I'd sure love to hear your opinion on how they perform.

Hope someone else can more help than I am, lol.

[Curtis96olds 1]

Sucks to hear about the ID's failing on you. Some of those Cadence components have been on my radar for a long time, I've just not had the opportunity to be able to purchase any. If you end up giving them a try I'd sure love to hear your opinion on how they perform.

Hope someone else can more help than I am, lol.

well i have no experience with the set i linked (obviously lol) but a couple years ago i ran there old cvl-5k components, they were a 5.25" component set rated at i think it was 150w rms, they got LOUD..way louder then my ID set ever could, and the cvl's were only a 5.25" speaker.. so with that in mind, im REALLY tempted to try these new cvl's, also seems like they could take some serious power with that 2" voice coil. only think that worries me is how bright the titanium tweeters are. but with the set being 94db sensitivity they should get loud off little power.

[altoncustomtech 773]

I'm glad to hear you've had some experience with the brand/series. I would imagine that the new CVL's you linked would/could be better than the 5.25's you owned before. Most companies only make improvements over the years so I wouldn't be too worried at all having prior experience with the series like you do if I were you, that is if you liked the first set you owned. Also on the tweeter brightness, they don't have to be that way if they're not designed that way. My Bravox CS60K's and the HIfonics Atlas components I'm currently using both have metallic domes, aluminum and titanium respectively. The tweeters on both sets are smooth and subdued, sounding much more like silk domes than metallic. There's no way to know without hearing them in person, but just because it's a metallic dome tweeter doesn't mean it's going to be harsh to listen to.

They're also discontinued, so if you're wanting them and have the cash on hand I wouldn't hesitate for too terribly long. I've missed out on so many great products and/or good deals by hesitating like that.

[Impious 1,476]

I wouldn't put too much faith into the 94db sensitivity. That's a pretty challenging number for a 6.5" driver to reach. They either rated it using an unconventional method, are lying, or the mids are going to have significantly restricted low frequency output (midbass). Personally I would find one of the first two on that list to be more probable.

That's not to say you won't enjoy them. You very well may love their performance. But I think you are putting too much emphasis on that one number, when it's either inaccurate or going to affect the amount of midbass the driver is capable of.....there's no free lunch, it's a trade off. If you want higher (true) efficiency, you will give up low frequency output.

[Curtis96olds 1]

hmm yeah i wasnt sure what the tradeoff was with that higher efficiency, i really do like alot of midbass, so if i would be sacraficing that, i probably wont buy them, i just wish someone who has heard them would chime in and let me know, because for some reason i really like that set.

[lithium 358]

have you considered going active?

[Curtis96olds 1]

i have but i like to keep it simple, plus i only have a 4 channel amp, and i like my rear fill, and no place to put another amp, so im just looking for a basic component set.

like i said im really tempted to try out that cadence set, i mean it cant be that bad, if anything there better then the last generation CVL series that i had, and i liked those, and those had a 3" coil and i think 93db sensitivity, so the specs are similar. i may just go with it... its only 350 bucks right? lol

[lithium 358]

only 350 bucks....

i spent that much on drivers for a 3 way + sub

ditching rear fill for an active front stage is an easy call for me. if your not up to it that cool, just something to think about.

[Curtis96olds 1]

lol i was being sarcastic, 350 bucks for me is alot, thats a whole weeks paycheck. like i said i would go active, i just dont have the processing to go active, i cant afford a new head unit, and my amp really isnt active capable.

and yeah i did decide to not have any rear fill, i will just focus on a loud front stage, i just figured it would be easier to get louder with twice the speakers.

with that being said, i may go 3 way passive

cadence has a 3 way set similar to the one i was talking about earlier, looks like the same 6.5 and tweet, but with an added midrange driver

http://www.wooferset...ker-system.aspx

then i found this one by DLS

my question on this one is, with the 2.5 midrange, i found a spot they will fit on my door, but are they sealed back like a tweeter? or do they need to be run IB like the 6.5?

http://www.wooferset...ies-system.aspx

or am i totally off base that a 3 way setup will get louder then a 2 way setup? i hear people say that 3 way is SQ and this and that, but to me, you have one more speaker per side, so it should be louder

Edited March 18, 2012 by curt96olds

[snowy8171 1]

i love my CXS62 V2 - Image Dynamics 6.5" 2 Ohm Component System. i got them running on a sax 125.2. they get soo loud. i really like ID so i would just go with them again but finding different ones is also good. depends on what you like to run

[Curtis96olds 1]

you have the ID cxs 2 ohm components running off that 125.2? so there getting 250 watts per side? how are they taking the power, cause thats exactly what i originaly was going to do, but i thought that was too much power. because my amp can do 125x4 or 250x4. if they take the power well then i may just get those.

Edited March 18, 2012 by curt96olds

[lithium 358]

more speakers per side does not make it louder. the band of frequencies reproduced by any one speaker is determined by the crossover. that is to say that each speaker is working individually. in a 2 way the high frequencies are played by the tweeter and the low frequencies are played by the mid. in a 3 way it is split three ways.

you are confusing the idea of 2 speakers playing the same frequencies which, through constructive interference, produce more output.

now i bet your thinking, "then why dont i just install multiple sets of speakers on each side?" the reason for why NOT to do this is another acoustics term called, destructive interference. (this is frequency dependent so that is why it works fine with subwoofers)

when you go with a passive 3 way you want to keep all drivers as close together as possible. another forum member used a bravox 3way set and installed all the drivers in the kickpanels. his build is on here somewhere.

What is a your real budget?

for 350 you could probably get the results your after with a 2way active build, including the price of a new hu.

for example, a used alpine cda 9855 or 9853 goes for about 100-150 dollars. that leaves 200-250 for drivers.

depending on what you have space for you could do a mid and tweeter or a large midbass and full range.

here is an example of a nice 2way active build.

[Curtis96olds 1]

i really do appriecate you trying to convince to me go active but, its just really not feesable for me right now, i like my head unit, while its not active capable, it has all the other features i need/want. and not to mention i just dont know alot about fine tuning crossover points and EQ's to make an active setup sound good.

which i why i want to stick with a passive setup, i dont want to modify my doors, and have never fiberglassed anything so i cant do kickpanels or custom doors, so the stock places for my speakers will have to do. i have already sealed/deadened the doors and that siginificantly improved my midbass from the ctx65cs components, but they still didnt get loud enough overall.

[CHRIS 323 12]

just get something more common

[Curtis96olds 1]

well i got to thinking, and did a bit of reseach and aparently the crossover that comes with the ID CXS components doesnt bandpass the woofer at all (correct me if im wrong on this though) so my thought is to highpass the mids on channels 1 and 2 and let them roll off the high frequencies themselves similar to what it would do if it was ran through the crossover. then on channel 3 and 4 run the tweets, and i can high pass them up to 1200hz.

[lithium 358]

i see that there are 2 models for this component set, 2 and 4 ohm.

i would just get the 4 ohm model and wire up everything like normal but bridge your amp to each side.

so effectively in this option your amp would be running at 500 rms x 2 @ 4ohm. i little bit of head room here. haha

your idea would also work i guess, although i would use the passive network with the tweeter. this is assuming that there is no filter for the woofer.

in this case you would use the 2ohm model for the woofer, which would receive 250x2 @ 2ohm. The tweeter on the other channels would get 125 x2 @ 4ohm i assume. i bet they just have the same tweeter for both and you would attenuate accordingly.

too be honest im surprised that a 300 dollar set of comps do not have a filter for the woofer.

Edited March 19, 2012 by lithium

[Curtis96olds 1]

i see that there are 2 models for this component set, 2 and 4 ohm.

i would just get the 4 ohm model and wire up everything like normal but bridge your amp to each side.

so effectively in this option your amp would be running at 500 rms x 2 @ 4ohm. i little bit of head room here. haha

your idea would also work i guess, although i would use the passive network with the tweeter. this is assuming that there is no filter for the woofer.

in this case you would use the 2ohm model for the woofer, which would receive 250x2 @ 2ohm. The tweeter on the other channels would get 125 x2 @ 4ohm i assume. i bet they just have the same tweeter for both and you would attenuate accordingly.

too be honest im surprised that a 300 dollar set of comps do not have a filter for the woofer.

so your saying having 500 watts per side on tap isnt too much? i realize i would have to back down the gain quite a bit, but if they can take it then i may just go that route, it just scares me knowing that there is that much power on tap per speaker considering i blew a ctx mid with only 125 watts, granted ive had them a few years, and they went thew a roll over in my last vehicle.

wow, i just found this http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/diyma-sq-forum-technical-advanced/34716-image-dynamics-xs-65s.html coming from erik himself, one of the main guys at image dynamics. after reading that im willing to spend the extra 100 bucks and get there XS series components and bridge them for 500w per side like you said.

Edited March 19, 2012 by curt96olds

[lithium 358]

i really do appriecate you trying to convince to me go active but, its just really not feesable for me right now, i like my head unit, while its not active capable, it has all the other features i need/want. and not to mention i just dont know alot about fine tuning crossover points and EQ's to make an active setup sound good.

which i why i want to stick with a passive setup, i dont want to modify my doors, and have never fiberglassed anything so i cant do kickpanels or custom doors, so the stock places for my speakers will have to do. i have already sealed/deadened the doors and that siginificantly improved my midbass from the ctx65cs components, but they still didnt get loud enough overall.

no problem man, hope you find something to work for you.

...but if not, active is probably the solution. i mean look at a driver like the exodus ex anarchy, 12.5mm xmax! show me a better driver then something like that. it sure as hell wont be close to 70 dollars a piece like the anarchy. http://www.diycable.com/main/product_info.php?products_id=538

[lithium 358]

i see that there are 2 models for this component set, 2 and 4 ohm.

i would just get the 4 ohm model and wire up everything like normal but bridge your amp to each side.

so effectively in this option your amp would be running at 500 rms x 2 @ 4ohm. i little bit of head room here. haha

your idea would also work i guess, although i would use the passive network with the tweeter. this is assuming that there is no filter for the woofer.

in this case you would use the 2ohm model for the woofer, which would receive 250x2 @ 2ohm. The tweeter on the other channels would get 125 x2 @ 4ohm i assume. i bet they just have the same tweeter for both and you would attenuate accordingly.

too be honest im surprised that a 300 dollar set of comps do not have a filter for the woofer.

so your saying having 500 watts per side on tap isnt too much? i realize i would have to back down the gain quite a bit, but if they can take it then i may just go that route, it just scares me knowing that there is that much power on tap per speaker considering i blew a ctx mid with only 125 watts, granted ive had them a few years, and they went thew a roll over in my last vehicle.

wow, i just found this http://www.diymobile...ics-xs-65s.html coming from erik himself, one of the main guys at image dynamics. after reading that im willing to spend the extra 100 bucks and get there XS series components and bridge them for 500w per side like you said.

looks like he recommended 250 per woofer with a highpass around 80hz, of course you can just back the gains down or raise the cross over point some.

did you previous set die from over excursion or did you burn them up?