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mjmarovi: I would HIGHLY suggest that you simply :google: some of these products. You will find answers to many of your questions on multiple forums..

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=sundown+ns1&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=stetsom+7ke&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=DC+7.5k&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=Digital+Designs+M4a&l=1

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Right...I've already tried that, and I have looked up the info on them, but just because they each say from manufacturer what MSRP is, that doesn't mean that's what I should expect to pay, the ns1 msrp is over 2k, but they are on SSA store for 1500, and power is same thing, that's why i am asking ppl from experience, and also on this forum specifically since I have been on here for a long time and trust true reviews from ppl on this forum.

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Well, unless you monitor your voltage constant, and have a sufficient elect, I wouldn't pick up the stetsom, as they are touchy in that area. I believe the NS-1 would be more suitable as it may take more abuse before failing. There have been clamp test for both of these amps if that means anything to you. And the stetsoms go on sale all the time, you can pay 500-800$ for those, and the NS-1 just came out, so street prices on those will be minimum.

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From personal experience with the Stetsoms I would tell you that everyone is right. They are very sensitive to voltage drops. If the voltage drops too much too quickly you will fry the input section of the amp. If you have sufficient battery back up and can hold a fairly steady voltage of over 12 volts they are awesome amps. If you can hold them over 14 they make a ton of power. I would suggest if you get the Stetsom you would want their 2:1 connectors to carry enough current for the amp. Based off the Russian tests of the NS-1 the triple inputs are needed as the amp is capable of making more than 9K on 14 volts, and over 900 amps of current draw.

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From personal experience with the Stetsoms I would tell you that everyone is right. They are very sensitive to voltage drops. If the voltage drops too much too quickly you will fry the input section of the amp. If you have sufficient battery back up and can hold a fairly steady voltage of over 12 volts they are awesome amps. If you can hold them over 14 they make a ton of power. I would suggest if you get the Stetsom you would want their 2:1 connectors to carry enough current for the amp. Based off the Russian tests of the NS-1 the triple inputs are needed as the amp is capable of making more than 9K on 14 volts, and over 900 amps of current draw.

good info, exactly what I wanted to know, I think the NS-1 will actually be too big for what I'm looking for.

I'm thinking cause of my electrical, I may have to downgrade my amp selection to something down around the 6k level rather than the 7-8k level...unfortunately for now....

Well, unless you monitor your voltage constant, and have a sufficient elect, I wouldn't pick up the stetsom, as they are touchy in that area. I believe the NS-1 would be more suitable as it may take more abuse before failing. There have been clamp test for both of these amps if that means anything to you. And the stetsoms go on sale all the time, you can pay 500-800$ for those, and the NS-1 just came out, so street prices on those will be minimum.

where have you seen sales on that amp for that price range? they are on the SSA store for 1215.00 If I could pick one up in that price range, they may end the dispute. I think I can handle doing what I would need to to insure good voltage.

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From personal experience with the Stetsoms I would tell you that everyone is right. They are very sensitive to voltage drops. If the voltage drops too much too quickly you will fry the input section of the amp. If you have sufficient battery back up and can hold a fairly steady voltage of over 12 volts they are awesome amps. If you can hold them over 14 they make a ton of power. I would suggest if you get the Stetsom you would want their 2:1 connectors to carry enough current for the amp. Based off the Russian tests of the NS-1 the triple inputs are needed as the amp is capable of making more than 9K on 14 volts, and over 900 amps of current draw.

good info, exactly what I wanted to know, I think the NS-1 will actually be too big for what I'm looking for.

I'm thinking cause of my electrical, I may have to downgrade my amp selection to something down around the 6k level rather than the 7-8k level...unfortunately for now....

Well, unless you monitor your voltage constant, and have a sufficient elect, I wouldn't pick up the stetsom, as they are touchy in that area. I believe the NS-1 would be more suitable as it may take more abuse before failing. There have been clamp test for both of these amps if that means anything to you. And the stetsoms go on sale all the time, you can pay 500-800$ for those, and the NS-1 just came out, so street prices on those will be minimum.

where have you seen sales on that amp for that price range? they are on the SSA store for 1215.00 If I could pick one up in that price range, they may end the dispute. I think I can handle doing what I would need to to insure good voltage.

There out there bro, just gotta :google::lol:

I'm assuming your :google: search tactics aren't the best :P

Also, to your post above, wattage isn't a determining factor when it comes to keeping your voltage afloat. It is the consumption of the amplifier. For example, if you have a Class A/B 2000 watt amp from factory X, It may draw 500 amps, then you go buy a Class A/B 2000 watt amp from factory Y, and it only draws 200 amps, and for this example, we'll assume the amps are built from different regions I.E. China and Korea.

The point is, you also may want to look at how efficient the amp is as well, also, keeping in mind you won't never run the amp at 100% for daily as well.

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I already mentioned efficiency, and have put that in half my posts in this thread asking about it, but no one seems to have any input or knowledge on which would be more efficient. Kjmass was the first person to mention anything about current draw.

I appreciate you trying to help sencheezy, but honestly you haven't, all you've done is told me to use google, and if that's what all answers on this forum were, then the forum wouldn't be much help would it? and don't post some information like the deals on that amp without one example of who or when that amp was sold for that price, and just say google it. If you have no good input on the thread title, then don't put down a reply. And FYI I have already looked up as much info as possible before starting this thread on both amps, and even a cpl others. There really isn't much out there. And if you found some then why don't you post the info rather than telling me to go find it since I obviously haven't.

No disrespect, my thread's just getting filled with nonsense.

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I witnessed a DD M4a putting out a little over 4k @ 2ohm with a voltage drop down to 11.7 & vehicle off.

The vehicle was a Jeep Cherokee with 6 Stinger SPV70's in the rear with I believe 2 runs of 1/0 power.

It replaced a Sundown SAZ3500D that had been ran down to .25ohm & produced magic db smoke.

Not trying to sway you one way or the other, just stating what I saw.

I've ran JL, Sundown & DD with good results from each when supplied with the correct electrical.

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mjmarovi: I would HIGHLY suggest that you simply google.gif some of these products. You will find answers to many of your questions on multiple forums..

http://lmgtfy.com/?q...sundown+ns1&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q...stetsom+7ke&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=DC+7.5k&l=1

http://lmgtfy.com/?q...Designs+M4a&l=1

For the two brands we have done SEO work for, I love it that we are at the top of the search hits. ;)

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I witnessed a DD M4a putting out a little over 4k @ 2ohm with a voltage drop down to 11.7 & vehicle off.

The vehicle was a Jeep Cherokee with 6 Stinger SPV70's in the rear with I believe 2 runs of 1/0 power.

It replaced a Sundown SAZ3500D that had been ran down to .25ohm & produced magic db smoke.

Not trying to sway you one way or the other, just stating what I saw.

I've ran JL, Sundown & DD with good results from each when supplied with the correct electrical.

How does this help the OP? Its gonna be hard for anybody to answer you efficiency question since nobody on this forum owns both amps or have the correct testing tools/methods. Plus the first run of NS-1s were sold to team members only so you need to ask Jacob, Derrick or other team members who can answer your questions about the ns-1.

Edited by jay-cee

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Denim you're at the top of the search hits cause of this thread, this is the thread that shows up when you google it...

I think through all the nonsense though, a couple posts have helped me out.

thanks

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I cant tell you exactly because we never clamped my amp but i had a stetsom 5k2e, but daily driving with a mechman 270 and 3 kinetic hc-1400's my voltage rarely dropped below 13.7. When burping at high volume and tone voltage would drop into the low 12's with truck at 1800rpm. i do own an ns-1 and can tell you it is way bigger than the 5k but i haven't installed it yet so i cant compare its performance.

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I have a friend selling his two NS-1 BNIB to other team members for team price.

Tuffguy40 on Youtube, send him a message. BNIB

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We clamped power on the NS1 feeding the two Obsidian 12's. 4660 watts. 152.2 dB for now (using a CD instead of iPod).

*Post made by OA on FB

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We clamped power on the NS1 feeding the two Obsidian 12's. 4660 watts. 152.2 dB for now (using a CD instead of iPod).

*Post made by OA on FB

that really means nothing to me without knowing the voltage and impedance...

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Why are you going with Q's if you're competing? I'd probably go with the SA series or BL's you stated at the beginning if you're going to be chasing numbers as well.

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I did great with Q's before, Frankie Rio was doing 160's with his back when he was running Fi...I know they are capable of some pretty impressive output, and especially on lower tones which is what I want. but I may actually be changing it up to go back to 2 15's as oppose to 6 10's, since down the road I would like to run much more and the new SP4's look so damn good!

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